I have run a number of old tractors including 2U D8's that were cable, but I was not aware that they made a 46A with a cable dozer, winches to pull a can, but not the dozer. Is it a front mounted winch? If memory serves, the 35A D8H was a torque converter driven tractor that used the diesel fuel from the fuel tank for converter fluid, great to run in the winter but running in the summer, especially when the fuel was low, was miserable. The 36A D8H was direct drive, and the 46A powershift.
46A's are probably the most popular tractor ever built. Replacement parts would be very easy to find, and I suspect it is worth well more than $1400 just for scrap. If the tractor you are looking at has a gas pony motor for starting it can be easily converted to direct electric starting, although the pony motors were great in the winter as you could turn the diesel over for some time and warm up the oil before actually firing the big engine.
If you ever worked on much of a sidehill you wanted to put a couple gallons overfull in the transmission or they would kick out of gear. As I recall, the transmission was prone to leaking into the finals also. No big deal for casual use, just be sure to drain excess oil from the finals occasionally.
I have run 9U D6's, both cable and hydraulic dozer, but have no experience with the D6B (37A and 44A I think). Track adjustment on the 9U requires a big wrench and some ballast. If they are maintained and cleaned occasionally they are not too bad. The 46A will have hydraulic (grease fitting) track adjustment.
On any of the old tractors, as well as new, track adjustment is important for good track wear, and high speed reverse should be avoided.
Cable dozers are not bad at all to run once you get used to them and learn about their idiosyncrasies. Perhaps I am preaching to the choir, but if you have not run one there are a couple of things to know. Try not to drop the dozer all at once until it hits the ground as this will cause problems with cable spooling. Keep the clutches and brake adjusted well, and NEVER, NEVER climb under the dozer when it is raised. Obviously the amount of down pressure you have is limited to the weight of the dozer, but if you encounter hard ground you can usually build yourself a bit of a mound to back one track onto and get started with the corner bit. This is much preferable to getting off and manually tilting the dozer.
Thanks to all for enduring my ramblings here, the subject has brought back a bunch of memories (most of them good!)
ointhead