Looking at a 580CK, would like some advice

[low_lead]

First off, hello to everyone here! Google brought me to this forum searching Case 580CK, and I am impressed by the knowledge of the members here.

I am looking at a 1970 580CK, not the prettiest around, but a 2 owner with 1600hrs showing on the meter. One lift cylinder on the loader and the bucket cylinder on the hoe need to be rebuilt. No muffler (no big deal), and it looks like the lift arms have been reinforced where the bucket tilt arm attaches (pretty nice job IMHO). Loader bucket has a couple of small holes (rust), but nothing that could not be repaired. Bucket bushings are "wallowed" out, not a big deal. Reading the 580CK threads, I have a couple of questions:
What should I look out for?
What should I test?
How do I tell if it has a torque converter or manual shuttle?
New to backhoes, so any advice would be great!

 

[oceanobob]

Thanks for joining the forum and placing the photos.....I am not familiar with any Case older than the K model. Curious, what is the purpose of the chain on the hoe?

 

[low_lead]

Thanks for the welcome. The seller had the chain on the hoe so he could pull the bucket cylinder and have it rebuilt. He never did, and when I used the hoe fluid just poured out of it. Everything else is in good operating shape, I figure it will take about $500-$600 to rebuild the cylinders, change fluids/filters, re-bush/pin the loader bucket and a few other things. Negotiated the price down to 3K delivered, so I have some room to spend a few $$. I was hoping to hear from some of the CK gurus here, but I went ahead and bought it. Will post an update when I tear into it.

 

[iceberg210]

3K? And it runs well? Sounds like a very nice deal, they aren't fancy, but that 580CK will certainly get the job done for you. I've known a few folks that have had some, and looked at picking one up myself at one point, good machines, really easy to fix, easy to work on. It'll make a great farm backhoe, congratulations on your new toy!

 

[fast_st]

Mine has the shuttle, couple ways to tell, under the steering wheel on mine I have two levers, throttle on the right and shuttle on the left, shuttle is F-N-R top down. Over by the clutch, you'll find that the pedal operates only a hydraulic valve via cam and roller. You have another stick on your transmission ahead of the 4 speed shifter, also one light on the dash is 'conv hot' next to the gen light. I'm guessing you don't have the shuttle shift. But it does look good, get the face pin type 3/4 drive pin spanner wrench. Its worth every dime and seal kits will run you about $28 each or so, don't need packings usually. Generally find that remove the screw, back the gland out all the way, turn it back in 3 turns, carefully nudge the ram against the packing. Shut down and bleed all the controls back for 30 seconds spin the nut out and the ram will come out by hand as this puts the packing in the flared part of the bore.

Adding a seat from Tractor supply was the best thing I ever did as well.

 

[low_lead]

Thanks guys, appreciate the info! Suggestions on where to buy the seal kits? The dipper cylinder will probably need the packing, it just pours out when I tried to move it. I saw the wrench on evil-bay for $135, but it will pay for itself the first use. I will have to see if the service manual explains the rebuild process, never done one before but have restored cars and built motors so it shouldn't be that bad.

Which seat from Tractor Supply did you get? I have one about 10 miles from me.

 

[fast_st]

I got the standard black high back and bolted it to my pan. I have seen aftermarket seal kits online but usually I just get the ones from Case, they're cheap compared to oil. I use a sharp tool to dig the fat square seal out and a 2' piece of wooden closet rod to help get that monster back in. Push it past the groove, mind the orientation, push one side into the groove, closet rod from the piston side and push it in, takes a bit of force. The kits from Case have some extra wipers so they fit both applications.

 

[packratc]

Mr. Lead, I'm a newby with a 67 CK. When I went to buy the cylinder rebuild kits at Case I had to tell them if I had one piece or two piece cylinders. You have to take them apart to tell, they told me. I had them with me and they were determined to be the two piece. I had looked up in the manual how they went together and was a still a little unclear. However, the rebuild kits had illustrated instructions in the packages. I was luck and all my cylinders came apart with a pipe wrench and a friends help. They all look pretty simple when you get into them. Your machine looks pretty good compared to my rag. Good luck! packratc

 

[low_lead]

Thanks for the advice, packratc! I ordered one of the cheap download service manuals, not a very good copy but good enough for now. I figure the first thing I will do is change all the fluids/filters, power wash/scrub the crud away, and start from there. Excited about this, my buddy and I can build/make just about anything to do with cars and bikes, this will be a new but somewhat familiar challenge. Between our two shops we pretty much have a machine/welding/fab shop.

C'mon Saturday!!

 

[capnkel]

I,ve done hydraulics for years.You will find it well worth the money if you buy a tool for installing the ucup rod seals,without the tool its nearly impossible to put them in the cylinder gland.I cant remember who makes them,but i believe them make 2 different sizes,i think i used the larger tool.Most any good seal supplier should have the tool,as well as all the seals you will need,and a fair bit cheaper than Case prices to. http://www.systemseals.com/pdfs/Rod U-cup Installation Tool.pdf

 

[low_lead]

capnkel, thanks for the advice! I will probably just use their idea and make one from an old door hinge and some drill rod I have laying around! (yes, I am cheap, but I did buy the face pin wrench on Amazon). Thanks to all, and when I see you I will buy the :drinkup !

 

[waterman28]

capnkel, thanks for the advice! I will probably just use their idea and make one from an old door hinge and some drill rod I have laying around! (yes, I am cheap, but I did buy the face pin wrench on Amazon). Thanks to all, and when I see you I will buy the :drinkup !

Hahaha I love it, an old door hinge. Cant wait to get home and build one. Great idea!!!

 

[low_lead]

Nothing like good ol' redneck engineering!

 

[fast_st]

I dunno, a piece of closet dowel and a good push has served to get every one of those big seals in place with minimal fussin. Just tuck the top edge in and push from below. I can see this not working in cold weather.

As to the door hinge idea, keen but I had one cyl that was stuck enough that I bent a piece of 2x3/8 steel flat bar trying to pull it off, the tool and 3/4 breaker worked a lot easier.

 

[capnkel]

I resealed all the loader cylinders last year.Ive done lots of cylinders and had never needed a tool to install seals untill i did this one.

The ucups on mine are very thick and stiff,i couldn't even get them compressed enough to get them started in the gland,yours might be very different

.I saw the tool at the seal suppliers when i bought my seals,so i made a trip back to buy it,i think it was $45 at the time,it certainly saved a lot of frustration.

 

[fast_st]

I turned my big square seals 90 degrees to the bore and stuffed them down the hole while ovaled out. Then start tipping and pushing! I did one in the winter and couldn't quite do it till I headed the whole thing to 120f or so in a toaster oven for a few hours. I'm not sure how the tool works unless its like a piston ring compressor.

 

[low_lead]

This link capnkel posted shows how the tool works:

http://www.systemseals.com/pdfs/Rod U-cup Installation Tool.pdf

 

[fast_st]

woah, kinky! but my solution uses a piece of a tree That answers my question I had a long while back, how the hell do they get that in there.

 

[low_lead]

Decided to start small and work my way up on the hydraulic cylinders. A steering cylinder had a slight leak, pulled it apart and went to the local hydraulic shop. O rings and seals to do both cylinders - $12.XX ! Ordered ball joints from EPS (spindle end on both was bad, figured I might as well do both while it was apart). Didn't need my door hinge for these

Ordered filters from Fleet almost 10 days ago, still not here... will have to call.

Tractor supply has "Extreme" brand Transmission and Hydraulic Oil that says it meets the Case Hy-Tran spec. Anyone used this, or should I just spend the $ for Case?

 

[Deon]

Try Walmart for you Hydraulic Oil. I buy it there for my JD 310D. Look for the wright specs. It's about half price to any where else I have found.