Tags
Senior Member
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Komat'su PC60-7 --Just Purchased Used--Some Questions
- Thread starter Mark A Weiss
- Start date
Mark A Weiss
Well-Known Member
I looked up Porta Power and it appears to be a hydraulic ram of sorts. But the question is how to securely attach it to the adjuster. It doesn't make sense to me, at least to how I'm visualizing the process.
I got a 6 foot long crowbar in that thing earlier. The only thing I haven't tried is chaining the end of it to the bucket and using that much force. But it's too late now. The assembly fell out when I pulled it out of the track and I frankly don't know how I'm going to lift it back into place without another machine. I will have to build a gantry out of wood and chain the back end of it up to line it with the track. But that's for after the thing is repaired and working. I also need a 90° Zerk fitting that has the Japanese thread pitch.. the ones on Amazon are SAE threads 28 tpi. I borrowed a straight Zerk off the boom arm lubricator for ten minutes while I experimented with filling the thing with grease. No joy.
How would I fix those rails? It seems that the metal has worn away from friction in that area.
I got a 6 foot long crowbar in that thing earlier. The only thing I haven't tried is chaining the end of it to the bucket and using that much force. But it's too late now. The assembly fell out when I pulled it out of the track and I frankly don't know how I'm going to lift it back into place without another machine. I will have to build a gantry out of wood and chain the back end of it up to line it with the track. But that's for after the thing is repaired and working. I also need a 90° Zerk fitting that has the Japanese thread pitch.. the ones on Amazon are SAE threads 28 tpi. I borrowed a straight Zerk off the boom arm lubricator for ten minutes while I experimented with filling the thing with grease. No joy.
How would I fix those rails? It seems that the metal has worn away from friction in that area.
Mark A Weiss
Well-Known Member
Dropped off the assembly at a heavy equipment repair shop in Danbury that was recommended by a member here. They're not sure if they can get the seal kit for this, but are going to research it and let me know next week. With luck, I may have a working adjuster soon. I hope.
heymccall
Senior Member
Seals are readily available
$50 for U cup, later serial number
$30 for earlier.
$50 for U cup, later serial number
$30 for earlier.
Mark A Weiss
Well-Known Member
Got a call today from the heavy equipment repair shop. They said it's really stuck and they were looking for alternatives.. something about a replacement adjuster assembly for $1300. They said repairing this one could easily cost that much. I told them to give it a try and that I read on the forums that others have repaired cylinders for about $500. Will wait to see what they come back with.
Mark A Weiss
Well-Known Member
Where would I look? That sounds like a long shot.
John C.
Senior Member
This guy is a master at finding the oddball parts that were created out of smoke and broken promises. I'm not sure he is still in business but if so tell him that John the Komatsu guy gave you his number.
Dean 360 893-1140
The other guy that is really good is Martin Kaldahl. He is the used parts guy at Modern Machinery in Montana. Email works best for him.
MKaldahl@modernmachinery.com
Dean 360 893-1140
The other guy that is really good is Martin Kaldahl. He is the used parts guy at Modern Machinery in Montana. Email works best for him.
MKaldahl@modernmachinery.com
Tags
Senior Member
A mechanic loves nothing more than being told that....just curious Mark, in the "other forums" that you've read that, was the whole assembly impossibly stuck together and not possible to get it apart to rebuild it? It's been said here in this thread and several other posts on this site, NOTHING ABOUT EQUIPMENT IS CHEAP TO REPAIR.
Mark A Weiss
Well-Known Member
Somewhere on this site was another thread where I read that someone rebuilt a cylinder for that cost.
I'm on a fixed income and I put my cash savings into this machine, with the understanding that if I go easy on it with light use, it would last a couple of years with no major issues. That theory broke down on day four of ownership. Then 13 days after that, my first big expense for replacement tracks. Now this.
I went into debt for the tracks; I've got payments near $600 a month now, which is most of my ss income. That leaves me nothing to live on. What a huge mistake on my part. I was going to buy gold, but I was having difficulty finding a gold dealer that would transact in cash, so I thought heavy machinery would also be a good investment that holds value in a hyper inflationary spiral. Hence, my decision.
Mark A Weiss
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the additional contacts. Montana's a bit far--I'm thinking shipping cost is going to eat much of the savings of buying used--maybe the other guy knows some resources closer to Connecticut.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Where did you get the idea that heavy machinery is a good investment? I suspect you came up with this theory to justify purchasing the excavator but never really did any research to see if it was was true or not. You just thought you could do so many things with an excavator it clouded your mind. It happens to everybody. Some people find really good deals and flip equipment for a profit. Sometimes they get stuck with a machine for years because nobody is interested at the price they are asking. Machinery is always a gamble if you expect to recoup your money after finishing your projects. I just bought an older grader(86) for 15K and I think that is about the bottom dollar for a decent running and working older grader based on prices I have seen them listed for. I think I could recoup all or most of the money I paid if I had to sell it because of low finances or an emergency but really don't know for sure. I also don't know if I'll have any major issues with it. It's a gamble I'm willing to take and can potentially help me make more money at my MX and oval race tracks. I don't think I'll be able to go back to a regular job with my cancer diagnosis so I'm hoping to increase users at my tracks. I can work at my own pace and having a grader, I think, will let me do some things faster and help me to increase my revenue. One thing I'll be able to do is clear snow so everything dries up faster in the spring. If anyone wants to have winter events, either sleds or studded bikes I'll be able to clear snow in a hurry for parking and/or riding the tracks. I can do a bunch of drainage work too so the MX track isn't so wet in the spring.
Mark A Weiss
Well-Known Member
As a fellow cancer survivor (still battling on my own) I can fully commiserate with your situation.
I'll readily admit that I went off half cocked. I'd only been thinking about and looking at machines for sale for about a year and a half and didn't really do much research other than compare ads and machines and pricing. Seemed most folks wanted 45 to 60 grand for a mini ex, which was out of my range, so when a midi ex popped up that looked in good shape and sounds good for asking price of 30 grand, I thought I've give it a shot. Only managed to get the seller down to 27.5 with cash offer, but he delivered to my property at no extra cost, so I figured all good.
I have an unfinished piece of property that I've started construction on 55 years ago. House is mainly complete, but the land is wild still. Have a swamp in the back. Have been trucking fill for two years and hand shoveling hundreds of yards of fill to raise the front yard 3' off the road level and build a fence.
Have to clear the jungle to the east which is encroaching on the house with vines and other nasties.
Will soon have to dig a 75' trench to replace failing underground piping from the well to the house.
Eventually need to dig up and redo septic fields.
If I ever find a deal on a quiet diesel generator again, I'll have the tools to move it from the truck to the pad.
Digging out tree stumps and general landscaping projects galore need doing.
I look at it as an education. At my advanced age, I'm purposely taking on new skills, studying foreign language, learning to play the saxophone, improving my piano skills, learned how to fly a drone recently, and now learning to use heavy machinery. All of this helps to hold off dementia by keeping the brain active creating new neuro pathways.
I can grasp that such a machine has a limited buyer market. But still, I've been told that a used machine has pretty much flattened out on pricing (it loses most of it's resale from new to used, but once used, the value doesn't drop as much) and so I would expect that with patience and the right buyer, I could eventually sell it. I'm thinking of asking for payment in the form of 20 oz of gold bullion when I do sell it.
I'll readily admit that I went off half cocked. I'd only been thinking about and looking at machines for sale for about a year and a half and didn't really do much research other than compare ads and machines and pricing. Seemed most folks wanted 45 to 60 grand for a mini ex, which was out of my range, so when a midi ex popped up that looked in good shape and sounds good for asking price of 30 grand, I thought I've give it a shot. Only managed to get the seller down to 27.5 with cash offer, but he delivered to my property at no extra cost, so I figured all good.
I have an unfinished piece of property that I've started construction on 55 years ago. House is mainly complete, but the land is wild still. Have a swamp in the back. Have been trucking fill for two years and hand shoveling hundreds of yards of fill to raise the front yard 3' off the road level and build a fence.
Have to clear the jungle to the east which is encroaching on the house with vines and other nasties.
Will soon have to dig a 75' trench to replace failing underground piping from the well to the house.
Eventually need to dig up and redo septic fields.
If I ever find a deal on a quiet diesel generator again, I'll have the tools to move it from the truck to the pad.
Digging out tree stumps and general landscaping projects galore need doing.
I look at it as an education. At my advanced age, I'm purposely taking on new skills, studying foreign language, learning to play the saxophone, improving my piano skills, learned how to fly a drone recently, and now learning to use heavy machinery. All of this helps to hold off dementia by keeping the brain active creating new neuro pathways.
I can grasp that such a machine has a limited buyer market. But still, I've been told that a used machine has pretty much flattened out on pricing (it loses most of it's resale from new to used, but once used, the value doesn't drop as much) and so I would expect that with patience and the right buyer, I could eventually sell it. I'm thinking of asking for payment in the form of 20 oz of gold bullion when I do sell it.
John Canfield
Senior Member
I bought my 1998 D39-P1 dozer at a decent price when we were in a depression and companies were selling off equipment. Used it for a couple of years, ran out of work for it so I sold it to my brother in law to use on his ranch. Didn't want to make much on the sale but I did wind up about +$2k for my investment.
Unless you are a professional flipping equipment, don't go there.
Unless you are a professional flipping equipment, don't go there.
Mark A Weiss
Well-Known Member
Not a pro, just a panicking old man watching the cash in his drawer in danger of becoming worthless, so in a pinch, I thought of buying the machine (also at the constant pressure from my wife who watches me suffer out in the sun all day with shovel and wheelbarrow) as a hedge against inflation.
Knowing what I know now, I would have brought wrenches and a grease gun with me to make sure the adjusters worked, and would know where the hydraulic lines go and what the look for in terms of aging.
Honestly, I think the machine is otherwise in good shape and once I solve the track adjuster and put on the new track, it should be ready to do some work again.
Selling is a few years down the road. I'll either ask for cash or gold bullion then.
Kobelco ireland
Senior Member
Don't get down hearted about it, all older machines will have some problems. It can be a steep learning curve buying your first machine. You got unlucky with with two expensive repairs so soon but here's hoping for smooth running from now on
Mark A Weiss
Well-Known Member
I'm hoping the law of averages holds true and that after this is fixed, my problems with this machine will abate for a while. It needs some TLC (a new seat upholstery, new kick window, weather stripping, and a rubber floor mat would be nice), but I believe the core mechanicals are in order, once this track mechanism is fixed.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Sometimes there's things you wouldn't even think to check on a used machine. I think Hyd. track adjusters could be one of those things if the tracks look tight when you first look at a machine. You wouldn't expect them to be jammed up, especially on a rubber track machine. On a steel track machine you'd notice right away if the tracks were excessively loose and wonder why the seller didn't tighten them. Hopefully after the track adjusters are repaired, it will just be minor cosmetic things like the seat, etc. You may get most of your money back if everything is fixed up on the machine.
I want to get a new seat for the grader and perhaps a new glass for one of the doors. A good seat is essential for me with my back problems but also makes a big difference when selling a machine. A seat that needs a new cover and/or foam sticks out like a sore thumb and is one of the 1st things a potential buyer will notice. I left my number with the place that specializes in graders incase they get a good used glass. They buy machines for parts. A used glass is $375 and new is $725. There's no difference if the used isn't cracked. I'm trying to do a kind of redneck fix on a cracked exhaust manifold because a couple good mechanics have said it's highly likely some of the bolts will break trying to remove them. If that happened could be a real pain to repair everything. I'm going to form some sheet metal to match the shape of the manifold and use some high temp furnace cement and wire to hold it in place and then wrap it tightly with high temp exhaust wrap. It might not look pretty but if it stops or greatly reduces the leak, I'll be happy. I figure the exhaust wrap will hold the sheet metal in place if the furnace cement fails. I thought about trying to weld it in place but if it didn't work would be forced to remove the manifold.
I want to get a new seat for the grader and perhaps a new glass for one of the doors. A good seat is essential for me with my back problems but also makes a big difference when selling a machine. A seat that needs a new cover and/or foam sticks out like a sore thumb and is one of the 1st things a potential buyer will notice. I left my number with the place that specializes in graders incase they get a good used glass. They buy machines for parts. A used glass is $375 and new is $725. There's no difference if the used isn't cracked. I'm trying to do a kind of redneck fix on a cracked exhaust manifold because a couple good mechanics have said it's highly likely some of the bolts will break trying to remove them. If that happened could be a real pain to repair everything. I'm going to form some sheet metal to match the shape of the manifold and use some high temp furnace cement and wire to hold it in place and then wrap it tightly with high temp exhaust wrap. It might not look pretty but if it stops or greatly reduces the leak, I'll be happy. I figure the exhaust wrap will hold the sheet metal in place if the furnace cement fails. I thought about trying to weld it in place but if it didn't work would be forced to remove the manifold.
Mark A Weiss
Well-Known Member
Depending on whether it's a crack in the manifold, or a bad gasket where it fits against the block, couldn't you do a V-groove weld to fix it if it's simply cracked?
Glass for these machines is hard to find. I'm still on the lookout for a lower kick window for mine. Need that to keep the rain/snow out of the cab.
Based on my experience with this machine, if I had known what I know now, I could have done a much more thorough inspection before purchase. I was going on some assumptions, such as believing that rubber tracks last a long time and I wouldn't have the machine long enough to wear one out or have it fail. But I now know to check the swing bearing for excessive play, how to look over the hydraulics, under the house for signs of rust, track adjuster function, etc.
Other things I need to do is put shims in the joints around the link coupling pins for the bucket, as these have a lot of lateral play in them.
I'm still wondering how to grease the joints at the bucket which have no Zerk fittings. There is evidence of grease at those areas, but no means to attack a grease gun to at least two points near the bucket.
The guy that's working on my track adjuster said he'll be back to it on Monday. I'm hoping he's willing to give it a good effort and not just tell me I need a new assembly for thousands of dollars.
Glass for these machines is hard to find. I'm still on the lookout for a lower kick window for mine. Need that to keep the rain/snow out of the cab.
Based on my experience with this machine, if I had known what I know now, I could have done a much more thorough inspection before purchase. I was going on some assumptions, such as believing that rubber tracks last a long time and I wouldn't have the machine long enough to wear one out or have it fail. But I now know to check the swing bearing for excessive play, how to look over the hydraulics, under the house for signs of rust, track adjuster function, etc.
Other things I need to do is put shims in the joints around the link coupling pins for the bucket, as these have a lot of lateral play in them.
I'm still wondering how to grease the joints at the bucket which have no Zerk fittings. There is evidence of grease at those areas, but no means to attack a grease gun to at least two points near the bucket.
The guy that's working on my track adjuster said he'll be back to it on Monday. I'm hoping he's willing to give it a good effort and not just tell me I need a new assembly for thousands of dollars.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
If I could get the manifold off I'd attempt welding it. On the machine would be extremely difficult as the crack is on the side and bottom. Trying to do an overhead weld on it would be very difficult for the most experienced welder. I've heard of people Mig welding cast but I don't want to experiment with the manifold on the machine. If I can slow the leak I'll be happy.