Komatsu D57S-1 Head gasket seep

[James Sorochan]

I could use a hand here if you please. Not sure how to remove part #11 (end cap). All the other ones came off easy. I pried against crank lobe with bar but it doesn’t budge. Don’t want to wreck anything. Thanks

 

[Nige]

Is that the one right next to the flywheel housing.? If so then IMO the housing should really be removed first to give you some access to start beating on the main cap.

 

[James Sorochan]

I could use a hand here if you please. Not sure how to remove part #11 (end cap). All the other ones came off easy. I pried against crank lobe with bar but it doesn’t budge. Don’t want to wreck anything. Thanks

 

[James Sorochan]

I was hoping I wouldn’t have to do that. A couple extra gaskets and seal to add to the parts list. Thanks Nige.

 

[Nige]

I was hoping I wouldn’t have to do that. A couple extra gaskets and seal to add to the parts list. Thanks Nige.

I'd rather someone else with experience of this model engine such as @tctractors advised you but personally I can't see any way of that main cap coming off easily unless the flywheel housing is out of the way first.

 

[James Sorochan]

I think you’re right Nige. I kind of like it standing up right now with it supported by my lift and engine stand. I’ll have to get creative once the flywheel housing is off. Looks like I will have to order the full gasket seal kits to close everything up in the end.

 

[chidog]

When you have something like that, pulled so far apart, it makes no sense not to remove EVERYTHING.

Now is the time to deal with that rear seal, and any related to the rear of the engine gaskets etc etc.

It all needs the be cleaned real good as well, and to check things real good for cracks and other potential problems. I'm sure a top guy like Truck Shop would agree.

I would not be trusting that stand you have that on. Blocks of wood on the floor are a safer option.

Oh does it have cylinder liners? Now is the time to deal with them and the seals etc. Don't do this job half _$$.

 

[James Sorochan]

Flywheel is off. Two of the flywheel bolts went into the cap.Thanks Chidog for your advise. I’ll be careful with the stand. I finished pulling the liners yesterday. I haven’t ordered any parts yet. Wanting to check everything first.

 

[Nige]

Two of the flywheel housing bolts went into the cap.

i was wondering if there were any fasteners into the cap from the back side. That answers that question...........

 

[James Sorochan]

The drawings are really bad. Hard to see the parts.

 

[56wrench]

This design negates the use of side seals on the main cap or a rear seal retainer like some engines use

 

[James Sorochan]

I can feel the ridge closest to the journal. How much is allowable?

 

[coalrulz]

I was taught, if you can catch the ridge with your fingernail three choices:
- Drive the seal in a little more or little less to give seal new area to ride on. If possible
- Sleeve the crank surface where seal rides
- Weld and regrind affected area

 

[56wrench]

If the seal lip on the new seal is located at the same depth as the original, installing it about 3mm deeper would work but first compare where the lip on the new seal is located. After a couple decades, it depends who made the seal and if it is exactly the same as the old one. The important thing is to get it square and even in the bore.

 

[chidog]

Goofy stuff having bolts and or pins going into a bearing cap. Makes an inframe very difficult.
And please don't use that crap silicone (RTV) as it looks like someone did.
That will be one of the most difficult jobs removing it. Please don't use powered abrasives to clean the machined surfaces.

 

[Truck Shop]

First measure the depth of seal housing bore to see just how much can be afforded by
installing seal at a different depth. You may not have the surface area needed, if so the
only steps left is #1 crank seal area reworked on a crankshaft grinder, and that is only
if there is a plus/minus given for undersize. If the grove is too deep then it will need to
be welded and reground to spec. #2 is if there is a seal with a wear ring available just
for this circumstance. If the crank can be machined--all the journals/crankpins can be
polished at that time and crank checked for straightness. Most don't have them checked
but it is not uncommon for a diesel crank to be out of tolerance from end to end.
*
At that time it's also a very good idea to have the con rods checked for alignment,
large housing bore & wrist pin bushings checked. In most cases 1 in 12 con rods is
actually not straight. Mostly caused from ether.

 

[James Sorochan]

Thanks Chidog. I think the last person used silicone because the cap ended up a touch deeper than the rest of the block surface. I'll just use a scraper on the old gaskets.

 

[James Sorochan]

Truck Shop. The seal wasn't all the way into the bore on the flywheel housing. I would say it can go 2 or 3 more mm which will bring it that much closer to the engine. Probably still 10 -12 mm to the edge. Hope that's enough? Please excuse my ignorance here. When you say large housing bore do you mean the block? I will have to pull all the shafts out. If I have to do that wouldn't I have to mark all the gears so they mesh up the same when it goes back together? Thanks.

 

[Truck Shop]

On connecting rods and block/main cap bores, those are listed in automotive machine
manuals as {housing bores}, In those manuals it is not referred to as {big end of the rod}.

 

[James Sorochan]

My pump rebuilder just called me. Having problem finding parts for the injection pump. I gave him machine model and engine model so he said he will keep searching. It’s a Nippondenso
090000-9702. Anyone know of any suppliers that can help? thepumpguysc any chance you have any connections for this unit? Thanks