Joysticking steering problem

[koenig]

I'm somewhat new to this equipment thing as this is only the second machine I've owned. Machine is a Takeuchi TL 26 with 3200 hours on it. It has hydraulic pilot controls (short joysticks). The machine doesn't want to turn to the left sometimes. If you play with the joystick a bit it will go but it takes some getting used to. I purchased this machine off of a friend and I know for a fact it has had this issue for 500+ hours. I'm thinking the joystick valve assembly needs replaced. Your thoughts? Thanks in advance.

 

[koenig]

I forgot to add all rollers and idlers are in good shape and not binding. Machine tracks straight forward and backward. All filters were just changed. I really don't think this is a drive motor going bad because it had been doing it so long.

 

[zfrepair]

i would guess its in the joystick but i also had a tl150 that acted the same way and the bolt which neutralizes the pump connected to the servo piston was snapped

 

[koenig]

zf, can you tell me more about this bolt. How do I access it? Is it in plain sight? Its probably something to check before I dump $800 into a joystick valve.

 

[zfrepair]

to fix it you have to take the pump apart this bolt sticks out the side of the pump maybe 1/2 inch with a lock nut now it could be turned towards the bottom of the machine or the side one side should have two bolts sticking out the other only one the one you want the side with one bolt see if thats how the pumps look i didnt work on a tl126 lately thats how the tl130 is

 

[koenig]

Thanks zf. I'll check it this evening after work.

 

[TruLine]

i am having that issue with a TL150. after traveling straight forward, you release the joystick to stop and the machine keeps making right turns till you wiggle the stick. when reversing it will stop and not keep turning. just forward has these issues. i have checked the little plungers under the joystick, they all move free and do not stick. which make me think it is in the pump. i have looked for this bolt you mentioned and can not find it.


also i keep having the 2 bolts that hold the pump assy to the bellhousing snap the heads off. i cant figure out why it keeps breaking these bolts.

 

[zfrepair]

the bolts your looking for do not have a hex on the outside all you see is the threaded part sticks out about half inch with a lock nut but remember you cant see the broken bolt its on the inside of the pump and on a tl150 that bolt faces the ground should be one on either pump with one smaller one right beside it

 

[TruLine]

ahh ok. guess it doesnt matter now, bossman is sending it to the dealer. we also keep having issues with the 2 cap screws that hold the pump assy to the bell. they are going to look it all over.

 

[koenig]

Let us know what the dealer comes up with. I'm curious.

 

[zfrepair]

ahh ok. guess it doesnt matter now, bossman is sending it to the dealer. we also keep having issues with the 2 cap screws that hold the pump assy to the bell. they are going to look it all over.

you might spend a fortune

 

[TruLine]

doesnt matter to me, put my 2 week notice in yesterday. haha. but i will find out what is wrong and will let you guys know.

 

[koenig]

Wanted to let everyone know I tried the snapped bolt thing in the pump and it wasn't it. I also replaced the joystick valve with a new one and that didn't do it. Maybe there is something in the final drive planetaries jamming things up every now and then?

 

[msjones360]

KOENIG, did you ever figure out what the problem was? My mechanic tells me I need a new Left side Pilot Valve and it's about $800...my TL26 is having a similar problem with zero pressure getting over to the left track so I can only go in circles.
Thanks,
MJ

 

[dcbartels]

same problem

KOENIG, did you ever figure out what the problem was? My mechanic tells me I need a new Left side Pilot Valve and it's about $800...my TL26 is having a similar problem with zero pressure getting over to the left track so I can only go in circles.
Thanks,
MJ

I have the same problem my tl26 drives only on the right side. I get nothing in forward or reverse even with the track off. Took the wheel motor off and found nothing wrong. The previous owner said they went to move it one morning and it started to move then quit and hasn't tried to move since...the brake releases when the motor is running, but no go in either direction. Anyone got any ideas?

 

[msjones360]

I have the same problem my tl26 drives only on the right side. I get nothing in forward or reverse even with the track off. Took the wheel motor off and found nothing wrong. The previous owner said they went to move it one morning and it started to move then quit and hasn't tried to move since...the brake releases when the motor is running, but no go in either direction. Anyone got any ideas?

Start pressure testing from the joystick/pilot valva on down the line. It turns out replacing my pilot valve got me from 0 to 1200psi, but still need 4000 total, so went on down the line and having to have hydrostat rebuilt now.

 

[mikebramel]

To diagnose swap the pilot control valves.

This is a closed loop system. The gear pump provides pilot pressure which goes through the joystick then controls the swash plate on the pump. If there are contaminants or damage in the pump controls you WILL have problems. If the fluid is fairly clean and the machine does have have insane hours you should NOT need a rotary group but just a reseal and pump control repair (done out of machine, obviously and sadly)

 

[dcbartels]

To diagnose swap the pilot control valves.

This is a closed loop system. The gear pump provides pilot pressure which goes through the joystick then controls the swash plate on the pump. If there are contaminants or damage in the pump controls you WILL have problems. If the fluid is fairly clean and the machine does have have insane hours you should NOT need a rotary group but just a reseal and pump control repair (done out of machine, obviously and sadly)

ok thanks mike, I'll try swapping the lines for the pilot when I get the new seal kit for the wheel motor and get it installed. This machine has 6400 hrs on it. I think you are saying that if I swap pilot control valves and still have nothing I should remove the pump. Do you know if I need to move the motor back to get clearance to remove the pumps? Also, is the pump complicated to work on and need special tools or would it be plausable to work on it in my shop?

 

[mikebramel]

WOW. Thats alot of hours for a "wanna be dozer". Yes, that is what I am saying, swap them over. The problem is the pump controls are sort of a one way. Get any contaminants in there they never really leave the servo piston and valve area unless they are small enough to bleed out. If the pump is worn you HAVE to take the motor out to as all the debris from that pump will have ran through the motor. Flush flush flush

 

[mikebramel]

Have to take the hydraulic motor out also. I know nothing of the engine. sorry