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John Deere 200 CLC starting/electrical problems

Winspeak

New Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
4
Location
TN
Hoping someone has experienced this and has some ideas for me to pursue. Machine was running fine, loading dirt in pan, shut down, run dirt, come back start up reload etc. etc. etc. Then I jump in the cab turn the ignition switch and no display and only a click coming from the starter relay. Air-conditioner panel was lit up but that was it.

Read the thread on the 230 that had a similar problem back in December of '14 and used the great suggestions offered there to troubleshoot. Checked fuses, all good. Replaced worn out key switch, no help. Checked every diode twice, all good. Unplugged Alternator relay, no help.

Checked battery volts and found far battery was 10.4 volts, near battery was 12.5. Charged battery to 12.5 and reconnected, no change. Pulled all relays behind the seat and tested with OHM meter, all good, Reinstalled them, turned switch on, no display but...the machine started. Ran great, moved it to a better location. Shut down, turned switch to on, display looked great, it started fine. Shut down, reinstalled the side panel and then tried to start, back to blank display and starter relay clicking. Took side panel off, pulled, tugged, wiggled and beat on wire bundle/ connectors that were moved during panel installation. No change. Wiggled, tapped all relays, no help. Batteries still showing 25 volts.

Am going to buy JD troubleshooting manuals for electrical wiring diagrams but would like to get the machine working again quickly. If I had power to the display I would suspect a bad starter relay but I think there is more going on that just that. Any Ideas? Thanks
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,891
Location
WI
I don't know a 200CLC from a hole in the ground, but 10.4V from machine that was running in the last month is BAD, and 12.5 is nothing to write home about either. Did you keep a volt meter on the batteries while you tried cranking it? to see what they did under "load"?

That is, UNLESS you left the key on for five hours while you did the research...
 

kenh

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
264
Location
bonners ferry,id
12.6 is 100% charge. Charge voltage from Alt. could be up to 14.2 (This based on a 12V system).
Bad grounds will fubar everything.
 

Schofie

New Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
4
Location
Central Ontario
Occupation
Heavy Equipment Tech
Check your voltage drop when cranking. Shouldn't go below 9.4 (on 12v system)
Check grounds and make sure you Dont have any Feta Cheese growing on your Batterys and Connections
 

Winspeak

New Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
4
Location
TN
Update- Pulled cables off batteries and rechecked voltage. 12.5 on near battery, 10.4 on far battery. Since I had to pull both I took them in to my battery shop for them to test. As you guys know (and now I do) They can't do a valid test unless battery is fully charged (slow charge 10-12 hours) so...The 12.5V battery was good, I'm guessing the 10.4 is bad. Shop wanted to loan me a battery until they could evaluate mine. Nice offer but I'm too old and worn out to wrestle those batteries in and out any more than I have to so I just bought a new one with the understanding that I will get a warranty credit on my CC if it is bad and if it is good I now have a spare.

I cleaned everything up (it was in pretty good shape already) put it back together and as I expected, same response. No display and a good solid click out of the starter relay. Using the voltmeter I tested for voltage on my fuses and found 0 Volts on the fuse going to the display (#5). Sure would be easier with a wiring diagram.

This one is a head scratcher. The fact that it started after I pulled all of the relays even though they all tested good would make you believe that there is a broken or loose wire but again, a wiring diagram will allow me to trace the problem.

Any suggestions on which manuals I need to purchase and who a reputable seller might be? I would like to buy the CD so I can access it on multiple computers.

Appreciate the input from you guys who chase these things down every day and from those like me who only do it when they have to...
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,891
Location
WI
Deere used to call them "operations and test" manuals, had everything that wasn't covered in it's own manual like the engine, transmission. I'd guess they're still the same.

Is this a Japanese built machine? does it have the funny ground solenoids or whatever the double interlock system is that they use?
 

Winspeak

New Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
4
Location
TN
Deere used to call them "operations and test" manuals, had everything that wasn't covered in it's own manual like the engine, transmission. I'd guess they're still the same.

Is this a Japanese built machine? does it have the funny ground solenoids or whatever the double interlock system is that they use?

Thanks Delmer, Don't think it is Japanese. I'm not familiar with ground solenoids. It does have an alternator relay mounted on the frame that supports the plastic storage/interior trim piece behind the seat.

As for the manuals, I bought a service manual on one of my JD tractors only to find that they did not include the electrical schematics. I'm hoping someone who works on these everyday can tell me exactly which manual I need.
 

Winspeak

New Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
4
Location
TN
Problem solved...Long story short the Battery Relay (on the back wall above the batteries) was the culprit. Don't know how without the circuit to look at but as soon as the new one was wired into the circuit the display lit up as soon as the switch was turned and the motor started without hesitation. I hope this will help the next guy or gal that has this problem. Now it's time to get back to digging. Thanks for the replies...
 
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