JD 310c Starting intermittently...

[joeeye59]

Hey guys,

I'm yet to get out there and load test the batteries, and to test the voltage drop when turning the key to crank, and the other tests to see why the unit intermittently cranks over.

Before I do I wanted to ask, can my batteries be so weak and have gone bad to where the starting system is designed to either crank or not crank, because there is no in between, I am not getting any slow cranking as if the batteries are weak... its either a nice cranking or nothing...

I ask because every single car/truck I owned each time the battery went dead I got no warning like I use to get back in the day like in the 70's and 80's... I jumped in and nothing cranked, no clue my battery was on its way out. this happened a few times...

I was thinking maybe if the cranking system see's not enough voltage and current it won't let it crank to avoid burning out the starter motor..? like a relay..? because I think aren't they high inductive starter motors requiring a powerful jolt..?

Here is the part of this post that's important, because right now the only way I can get it to crank over is if I turn the key to crank then turn the key to off, then back on to crank then back to off, I need to do that very very fast and then it cranks eventually, sometimes it cranks fairly quick, sometimes I need to so that for a while..lol.... oh boy...

 

[hackinjack]

Ground ?

sounds like your arcing a ground till it makes a good ground to start. put a charger on it turn it to boost aka start mode. if it starts right way with the extra boost its the ground cable. took me 2 years and about 3 batts and a starter to figure that out on my 310 jd

 

[grandpa]

I don't think its bad batteries.... its probably the connections... but a load test would be in order.

 

[Deon]

If your batterie is going bad you would sometimes get slow cranking and other times get clicking (click, click, click, click) about 2 clicks per second from the starter solenoid and no cranking. It sound like it's a connection somewhere, possibly the switch itself.

 

[joeeye59]

Hi Dion, I'm glad to hear you say the solenoid will make noise...

Seems like hackinjack it's time to go through all of the ground connections... I have to check my small battery charger if it can do tests like you say.

Awe man! Grandpa, my load tester just broke on me, the spring loaded "Rocker Switch" broke, but it looked like I was able to get the one last test out of it before it fell apart... the batteries checked out good, but of course I didn't separate the batteries to do the test...

Hooked up the volt meter.... everything checked out great..., Good 12 volts across both batteries..., charging good 13.4 something volts...., didn't drop below 11 volts when I would get it to crank over... etc...

But....!! I see now someone sprayed the battery terminal connections with some kind of corrosion protection spray stuff that stays soft and drippy. My past experiences have taught me to "Never Ever" use that stuff no matter what brand name it is because it will in time seep it's way down between the battery cable connections causing this very problem, the timing seems to be right being it was done almost 4 years ago from the guy I got it from. Can it be this easy...? we'll soon see.

 

[Deon]

joeeye59,

A good battery, or two good batteries will test 12.4 volts or more if fully charged and in good condition.
When testing the voltage at the battery post with engine running you should get no less than 14.0 volts. My 310D test 14.6 volts with engine running. That is on the high side but 14.0 is the least you need to keep batteries in good condition. I wouldn't worry about the drippy undercoat. Corrosion due to no undercoat is much worst.
Start by cleaning all connections and go from there. Good luck.

 

[davidd]

So Joeeye, What did you do to fix ya problem. Most will post a follow up on what fixed the problem

 

[chuck jacobs]

Does the starter solinoid need to be removed so that you can get at the starter bolts,I can only see the one on the bottom.

 

[Gmc7210]

I had problems with the neutral safety switch on my 210c,which caused the same types of symptoms. The switch was located under the cab on my machine, and could be bypassed for TESTING PURPOSES ONLY, if your really careful.

 

[jimmorrison]

Too bad the OP hasn't filled us in, but I bet this is the problem.

 

[melben]

Did you try to start it with a remote start button right at the starter solenoid bypassing the tractors neutral start circuit? If it were a Case I would tell you to install an intermediate relay to activate the starter instead of the neutral start circuit. I use the square little 40 amp Bosch relays which only take Miliamps to excite. I realize it is just making up for inadequacies in the stock system but customer satisfaction is worth it;s weight in gold. If it turns every time when you excite it right at the starter solenoid then the neutral start circuit has to much voltage drop to engage the solenoid. This problem with Case started when they changed to the Nippon gear reduction starter and is prevalent when updating from the old Delco. I have done literally dozens of this mod without a comeback. BTW do not overlook the neutral start switch, I believe the JD shares the same reverser as Case uses in several series and the NS switch can be suspect. Mel