Bought a 2004 jcb212s couple months back and it's been a good machine and has ran great but has always started a little hard and start out quick cranking the end slowly before turn over. Thinking it was a battery I put a new 1050 cca in. With same results still slow cranking. Also I've notice the ground on my starter smoking on a longer starts. Usually the first start of the day is worse. The rest of day starts are better. And turn over quicker. Lately it been getting worse. While I believe I may be coming to a starter today I started it and after. Long crank it started ran for 10 seconds then slowly stalled out and the alarm sounded and will not start now. The machine has alway ran great once started. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Jcb 212s won't start
- Thread starter Dsiss3
- Start date
drained water in filter sperator?
I just got my 2004 212su the other day and went completely through it. I would start with fuel it shouldn't take that long to start. Also make sure all your ground straps are clean against clean metal, some dielectric grease all your connections / grounds etc. I have an old 4840 jd that I have like 4 - 2 gauge ground straps coming off 2 to battery to frame, solenoid to frame, starter to frame etc because it would do the same thing you stated. that solved the issue on that tractor. If you change the fuel filter make sure and take the fuse out that wont let it crank over. mine was A slot 2 - 5amp. Then crank it no more than 10 seconds at a time till fuel filter / lines etc are primed. hope any of this helps
I just got my 2004 212su the other day and went completely through it. I would start with fuel it shouldn't take that long to start. Also make sure all your ground straps are clean against clean metal, some dielectric grease all your connections / grounds etc. I have an old 4840 jd that I have like 4 - 2 gauge ground straps coming off 2 to battery to frame, solenoid to frame, starter to frame etc because it would do the same thing you stated. that solved the issue on that tractor. If you change the fuel filter make sure and take the fuse out that wont let it crank over. mine was A slot 2 - 5amp. Then crank it no more than 10 seconds at a time till fuel filter / lines etc are primed. hope any of this helps
Ok if I drain water separater will I need to prime the fuel system or no? Also with a quick glance I could not see the fuel shut off solenoid like most tractors have looked looked like it was built into injection pump. Any idea on manually setting it on just to make sure that not my problem.
If you post a picture of the injection pump, and transfer pump if there is one, then we can guess a little better. I'm not familiar with JCB's, but I know just enough about injection pumps to be dangerous
Unless you have an electric transfer pump, you probably have a priming lever on the transfer pump, or possibly a round knob near the injection pump that unscrews and pumps up the fuel pressure by hand. You'll want to pump it up whether you drain anything or not. It sounds like you have two problems, a weak starter/wiring AND a fuel supply issue. The slowly stalling out sounds like a fuel supply/air leak issue to me. But it could be a solenoid too.
If you have only one wire going to the injection pump, you can test the solenoid by disconnecting that wire, turning the key to on, and touching that wire to the terminal, it should click when you touch it. If you can see a fuel mist in the exhaust when you crank it, then the fuel is fine, just not cranking fast enough.
A couple of test leads with alligator clips, and a multimeter will help you do some simple voltage tests on the starter while it's cranking to narrow down the slow cranking problem.
Unless you have an electric transfer pump, you probably have a priming lever on the transfer pump, or possibly a round knob near the injection pump that unscrews and pumps up the fuel pressure by hand. You'll want to pump it up whether you drain anything or not. It sounds like you have two problems, a weak starter/wiring AND a fuel supply issue. The slowly stalling out sounds like a fuel supply/air leak issue to me. But it could be a solenoid too.
If you have only one wire going to the injection pump, you can test the solenoid by disconnecting that wire, turning the key to on, and touching that wire to the terminal, it should click when you touch it. If you can see a fuel mist in the exhaust when you crank it, then the fuel is fine, just not cranking fast enough.
A couple of test leads with alligator clips, and a multimeter will help you do some simple voltage tests on the starter while it's cranking to narrow down the slow cranking problem.
Not from here. You should be able to find a bolt on the engine that looks like it was messed with.
Makes you wonder what else they were messing with that didn't get put back together right?
thepumpguysc
Senior Member
I see the inj. pump in the pic.. the solenoid is located above the lines coming out of the back of the pump. IF it has an electric shut-off and you don't pull a cable to shut it down..
It may have a black cover over it.
Also in the pic is the bottom half of a black canister.. that's looks like your fuel filter housing.?? if so, it should be electric.??
Turn the key on and listen for it running.. if I'm not mistaken, it should run to a certain pressure and shut off.. then cycle.
No help on the ground strap..
It may have a black cover over it.
Also in the pic is the bottom half of a black canister.. that's looks like your fuel filter housing.?? if so, it should be electric.??
Turn the key on and listen for it running.. if I'm not mistaken, it should run to a certain pressure and shut off.. then cycle.
No help on the ground strap..
when I turn key I can hear a buzzing sound coming from the fuel filter housing that doesn't shut of. I will check the fuel shut off by taking of the single wire. I will also be getting a new fuel filter. Once it's running again I will more then likely out a new starter in.
Take the starter to a starter/alternator/motor repair shop. Especially if it's OEM, it's probably better quality repaired than the typical aftermarket starter. And especially if you skip diagnosing the starting issue with voltage readings, the repair shop can tell you if the starter is fine, or fix what's wrong.
It's not that hard to take a fuel pressure test to check that the pump is working and the lines are clear.
It's not that hard to take a fuel pressure test to check that the pump is working and the lines are clear.
10V at the starter while cranking should be enough. That's with one test lead hooked to the starter side of the solenoid, and one hooked to the body of the starter. If you have 10 or more, then the starter is bad. Much less than that and the cables, solenoid, or battery are weak. 20 if it's 24V.
Hook up that ground strap, and clean or replace the other ground cable that got hot first. That ground strap can go anywhere on the block that it will reach, just not an oil plug or that banjo bolt on the injection pump.
Hook up that ground strap, and clean or replace the other ground cable that got hot first. That ground strap can go anywhere on the block that it will reach, just not an oil plug or that banjo bolt on the injection pump.
jcb jeff
Senior Member
That earth strap should go to either the back of the block or to the the bell housing bolt but my memory says it on the bell housing bolt as i guess transmission been out and has been left off when stuck back together .Electric fuel pump in top of filter the black plastic housing should turn ign on leave it running till it goes quite and then turn off leave a short while and then repeat and should be good to go.These filter heads do cause problems with failing to work so i guess pull a pipe off and see if its pumping fuel up.
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hookedondiesel
Senior Member
On my 94 210S, the starter was a pain to remove, hope yours is easier. After removing mine, the copper lead that comes from the solenoid to the starter was cracked and corroded and not getting the full amps needed to turn, causing slower engine starts. Personally, I would check that ground cable on the starter, if it's smoking, it's most likely loose or badly corroded, a good clean-up is what all it may need. On mine, the ground on the starter goes directly to the battery, I don't have a separate ground strap like you've shown here. All in all, my old starter was good, just needed that copper strap replaced, I did get a starter on ebay for $125.00 ( rebuilt) and she turns very fast now, starts within the second turn....on mine, the fuel primer is on the fuel pump, a lever on the side that you prime by hand.
barnbuilder
Well-Known Member
Have fun getting that started off. I burned mine up on long cold starts. Purchased one off EBay. Best thing I ever did was buy an Odessey battery it was smaller than OEM but started so much better.
barnbuilder
Well-Known Member
Does the hour meter work?
barnbuilder
Well-Known Member
I did a write up on replacing the hour meter. I purchased it from Summit Racing. The meter keeps track of the hours even though the display doesn't work. Purchased the new meter for $150 and put the new display in the old meter and had the current hours.