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Injector sleeves on Volvo L120H

Volvomad

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Looks like i need to replace sleeves in a 2015 model as i am getting coolant in the fuel filter water trap and that seems to be the most likely source after talking to 3 good mechanics. Dealer said I need to flare them after fitting with a special tool. I have never gone near anything like this before so i am all ears.
 

funwithfuel

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It's a special swaging tool that flares the cup tip on the deck side of the head. If it's not your "thing" , I would definitely invite the dealer tech to do it. There's about 4k worth of tooling to remove and install without harming the head. Plus you got to know how to clean inside the water jacket, and the fancy pants sealing paste. I would pass on that job. It would be a great time to replace the injectors and wash out the fuel tank. If you're getting water in the bowl, you've got a lot of coolant in the tank.
 

Volvomad

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10 k hours on machine. What is the average life for injectors like this on high quality fuel ? Fuel tanl flush would be a good idea.
 

funwithfuel

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10 k is a long life on factory inj's when they were trying to figure out injector lift and fuel aeration we would have 2 or 3 sets in . Once they got to the steel cups with conical seats and 3rd gen injectors, things got good. The biggest complaint is, you can't change "just an injector" you gotta go injector, cup and retainer bolt.
Again, once things got figured out, they became much more reliable.
 

sfrs4

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@Volvomad drop me a message the tooling is a LOT cheaper than you think it will be, as for the sleeves if you go main dealer you will be forced down the steel sleeves and new injectors route, we have the original copper versions still available so you can keep your injectors, the savings of injectors, main dealer fitter rates and coding in new injectors will pay for the tooling
 

Volvomad

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Are the copper cups a better job and are the injectors worth saving if they are first day. I would think the fuel seperator would have got all the coolant as the warning light is working and 1/2 inch of coolant is the most that was in the plastic bowel at a time.
 

sfrs4

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Right i just assumed as with most Volvo engines the injector sleeves would be upgraded to the steel sleeves, but I can't find any info on replacing them in the D8 engine @funwithfuel can you confirm this, as there is only 1 option in the parts listing for an injector and the same for the sleeve which would normally have both options and part numbers for copper and steel. so maybe there is only copper.
i personally would empty and flush the fuel tank, there are plenty of companies about that can test the injectors and report back if they need replacing or if they're good to go again.
 

funwithfuel

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Ok, sorry, got ahead of myself. The 120 has the Deutz engine where the 150 & up have the big bore Volvo engines. Stupid mistake. The deutz still use the compression seal on the bottom of the injector against the cup. No conical seat. I believe it's still copper cups. The tooling is different but the procedure is the same. I don't know if you can borrow or rent the tooling from the dealer. Personally, I can't justify single purpose tooling for one job.
I have attached a pdf with the procedure and specific tooling with part numbers. I have also included the cyl head parts page showing cups and O-rings. Again, if you're not comfortable doing this, it might be worth farming out. Make sure you keep injectors clean, bagged and tagged with position as each has a unique trim code written to the E-ECU. Good luck
 

Attachments

  • L120H inj cup srvc.pdf
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  • L120H cyl head.pdf
    320.6 KB · Views: 2

Volvomad

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Thanks. I will read all that carefully . I might be able to get tools from a local engine shop. I have the emision unit ready to lift off and i will start into the rocker cover then. Is there an issue with reusing the high pressure fuel lines ? I will call in the main dealer if necessary but if i do the ground work it should keep the cost down.
 

funwithfuel

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They will tell you to replace the pipes and crossover tubes. Clean and inspect for rust, cracks etc. Should be just fine. I've reused on many occasion.
Swaging cups on the engine is totally different than swaging on the bench. You only get one shot and you can't inspect your work.
Just be absolutely sure the piston is low in the bore before setting up the tooling. You don't want to be sitting on a crown when you flare the cup. Good luck
 

Volvomad

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Local truck mechanic has flaring set but can any one give me the OD of the largest cone on the flaring tool
 

funwithfuel

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I cannot find that information anywhere. I'm sorry. On the big bore engines, they tell you to measure before each use to make sure it isn't worn out. There's no mention of that for the D8J.
 

Volvomad

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Thanks. Dealer said the same thing. If any one could measure the tool , that would be great.
 

Volvomad

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Thanks for the help so far. I pressurised cooling system today and no.2 and 3 bubbled around the top of the cups. Seems like O rings may be to blame.
 

Volvomad

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Got tool dimensions so am good to go except does any one have tappet settings and torques for injector clamps, unions, rocker shaft mounts handy ?
 

Volvomad

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Fitted and flared cups, set tappets, fitted new injectors flushed fuel tank and put everything else back where it came from. Had to make a cup grabber to pull old cups as when i tried tapping they turned too easy. 60 engine hours later and all is well. Case closed.
 

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    20230105_161449.jpg
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