Hydraulic high pressure gauge

[TVA]

Looks like that flow divider is interaxle! The interwheel ones would have to be pilot operated, otherwise if the would be full time - they would tear up tires really quick!

I see now! I missed another (gear type ) flow divider! Strangely enough spool type is on one line going to motors and gear type on the other line?!
Picture is not good, can’t read, without understanding of what is what I can only guess that gear type is “ differential lock” and spool type is regular differential ( gives more flow to the wheel that travels on outside/longer radius, and looks like the diagram you posted is for four wheel drive as well as four wheel turn machine, because motors connected in cross fashion, and there’s turn switching valves)
And the “motion control valve” switches from one mode ( flow divider ) to the other.

 

[TVA]

OP, as it seen from the pictures and diagram, your motors displacement regulates by single speed shift cylinder by external linkage, it would be good idea to check the linkages and weather both motors awash plates have the same angles!

 

[TVA]

OP, as it seen from the pictures and diagram, your motors displacement regulates by single speed shift cylinder by external linkage, it would be good idea to check the linkages and weather both motors awash plates have the same angles!

But then again on the hose daigram it shows that each travel motor has its own speed shift cylinder - contrary to hydraulic diagram above!

 

[Ronray]

No problem at all with the brakes. If I turn the needle valve all the way in on the brake control valve it locks up the wheels even if I engage the wheels, so the needle valve is out about 3/4 of a turn.

Yep, that hose diagram was the only diagram I had in the service manual and it showed a 2-speed selector cylinder for each wheel, but in reality, I only have one 2 speed selector cylinder and that is on the right side motor, and the lever has a long rod connecting it to a lever on the left side motor.

But guess what? In the process of pulling off the right side wheel motor so that I could switch it with the left side motor, I discovered that the lever that connects to the 2-speed shift cylinder had a lot of free play in it where it connects to the swashplate shaft. The roll pin was completely split in half lengthwise. See picture. And so I think that the swash plates on each motor could have been in different positions. The diagram shows the swash plates should go from 4 degrees to 17 degrees, and so it is possible that 1 swashplate may have been at 4 degrees while the other one was at 10 degrees for example.

So at what angle of the swash plates will make the wheels turn at a slower speed, 4 degrees or 17 degrees of tilt? And will a slower wheel speed give me more torque when I'm driving the machine uphill?

 

[TVA]

View attachment 192066 No problem at all with the brakes. If I turn the needle valve all the way in on the brake control valve it locks up the wheels even if I engage the wheels, so the needle valve is out about 3/4 of a turn.

Yep, that hose diagram was the only diagram I had in the service manual and it showed a 2-speed selector cylinder for each wheel, but in reality, I only have one 2 speed selector cylinder and that is on the right side motor, and the lever has a long rod connecting it to a lever on the left side motor.

But guess what? In the process of pulling off the right side wheel motor so that I could switch it with the left side motor, I discovered that the lever that connects to the 2-speed shift cylinder had a lot of free play in it where it connects to the swashplate shaft. The roll pin was completely split in half lengthwise. See picture. And so I think that the swash plates on each motor could have been in different positions. The diagram shows the swash plates should go from 4 degrees to 17 degrees, and so it is possible that 1 swashplate may have been at 4 degrees while the other one was at 10 degrees for example.

So at what angle of the swash plates will make the wheels turn at a slower speed, 4 degrees or 17 degrees of tilt? And will a slower wheel speed give me more torque when I'm driving the machine uphill?

Perpendicular to motors shaft is 0 flow, the more parallel to motors shaft the more flow! But that’s a swash plate, I don’t know position of the shift lever to a swash plate.

 

[TVA]

Perpendicular to motors shaft is 0 flow, the more parallel to motors shaft the more flow! But that’s a swash plate, I don’t know position of the shift lever to a swash plate.

Judging by your previous photos the lever is parallel to the swash plate

 

[Ronray]

John, I will be using this man lift for pruning tall trees on my property. I have over 500 trees, and the tree services wanted $800 a tree LOL.

TVA, what is lapping?

 

[Ronray]

So I'm getting confused trying to picture in my mind perpendicular and parallel LOL so let me try to understand a different way, the more tilted the swash plate, the more flow. Tilted would be around 17 degrees and half of the 9 pistons would be higher and half would be lower. Kind of like a butterfly in a carburetor, right?

 

[TVA]

John, I will be using this man lift for pruning tall trees on my property. I have over 500 trees, and the tree services wanted $800 a tree LOL.

TVA, what is lapping?

I’m driving right now, just go to you tube and search “lapping valve plate”. But I would not recommend diy though!

 

[TVA]

So I'm getting confused trying to picture in my mind perpendicular and parallel LOL so let me try to understand a different way, the more tilted the swash plate, the more flow. Tilted would be around 17 degrees and half of the 9 pistons would be higher and half would be lower. Kind of like a butterfly in a carburetor, right?

Yes - all Pistons at the same level means no flow!
Butterfly in carburetor closed - is perpendicular to throttle body, fully open - parallel to the trottle body. In your case lever at 90 degrees across shaft is no flow, and vice versa.

 

[TVA]

Another question: are these motors mounted to steer axleor non steer?
And is there an swash plate angle indicator on the shaft? Probably on the opposite side from lever ( like on Rexroth pumps ).

 

[John C.]

Don't worry about the angle of the swash plate. Fix the broken linkages and then try out the machine. Some times you don't have to understand all the complicated stuff. Just fix the easy stuff first and see if it takes care of the problem.

 

[Ronray]

TVA, no swashplate angle indicators on the motors, and the motors are on the non steering wheels.

I am also attaching better pictures of the control valve box that the motors are connected to. It shows two large lines going out to each motor and two large lines coming into the control valve box. It also shows the brake needle valve connected to that same control valve box.

 

[TVA]

Like John said - fix the linkage problem and see if it helps, then go from there.

 

[Ronray]

Thanks TVA. As long as I have the motors off, I decided to look at the brakes a little more closely and I see a grease zerk fitting and I'm wondering how do you know when the grease is full, when it starts oozing through the driveshaft seal? Also wondering what kind of grease you would recommend, I have not looked in the manual yet. There was grease between the brake housing and hydraulic motor, but no zerk for that area, so that's why I'm thinking possibly the grease comes through the drive shaft seal from the brake housing? I was going to just pack that area with water-resistant grease from a can before I mate the brake housing and motor back together.

 

[TVA]

Thanks TVA. As long as I have the motors off, I decided to look at the brakes a little more closely and I see a grease zerk fitting and I'm wondering how do you know when the grease is full, when it starts oozing through the driveshaft seal? Also wondering what kind of grease you would recommend, I have not looked in the manual yet. There was grease between the brake housing and hydraulic motor, but no zerk for that area, so that's why I'm thinking possibly the grease comes through the drive shaft seal from the brake housing? I was going to just pack that area with water-resistant grease from a can before I mate the brake housing and motor back together.

Are you sure those are grease zerks and not bleed screws?

 

[Ronray]

TVA, no wonder my grease gun would not fit this fitting LOL. I think you saved me from making a big mistake here LOL but I have never seen a bleeder screw like this before. I am just used to what you see on automobiles, which are not all one piece.

Actually I turned this brake assembly upside down from where it was before with the bleeder screw facing down.

 

[TVA]

That branch is “dead end” so your gonna have to bleed it when you’re done, just like car breaks!

 

[Ronray]

Not sure what you mean by dead end?

So on the left wheel the bleeder screw was halfway up the side of the brake assembly, but on the right wheel the one pictured above, the bleeder screw was on the bottom. So would I be better to have the bleeder screw on top, which would ensure that the brake assembly is full of hydraulic fluid? Or flip it around again so it's on the bottom, like it was originally.

Also I would assume when bleeding these brakes, that I would just need to have the engine running, as opposed to like in a car where someone has to depress the brake pedal while cracking open the bleeder screw?
I'm assuming brake lines are fed with pressure from the pilot pressure hydraulic lines.

 

[TVA]

Dead end means no outlet to bleed by it self, hence you need bleed screw, the position doesn’t really matter, but facing upward I think is best.