hydraulic cylinders

[fasstang65]

I have a leaking cylinder and was curious as to how hard it is to rebuild if i bought a rebuid kit?

 

[stock]

So lets have a little more information,make ,year,position ,a photograph my be nice,where is it leaking,is it rusted,bent,damaged,etc,etc......just a thought...

 

[fasstang65]

It is on a 1988 case 580k. The boom cylinder is leaking out around the seal where the ram goes in. The seal looks quite dry rotted. The ram is not rusted at all. Doesn't seem to be bent either. Thank Dave

 

[Ruffasacob]

I just rebuilt my 580 CK earlier this year. It was the first time I had ever done it so this is from the perspective of a first timer. The two problems I see will be needing a gland nut wrench, and the parts are really put together with a lot of ft. lbs. My tractor had a gland nut wrench tucked down beside the battery when I got it so that solved that problem for me. The wrench fits the two small holes on the end of cylinder body where the chrome ram goes into the body.
If the cylinder has been rebuilt before by a dub like me, the gland nut and piston nut probably were never torqued to factory spec, and it won't be too bad to get off. If it has never been done or a real mechanic did it they are on very tight. You will need a big impact wrench or in my very inexpert opinion at least a 3/4" socket set. The socket will still need a long cheater bar and some one to hit the part with a hammer to break it loose. The actual putting new seals, wipers, etc. is pretty simple.
Oh yeah, and it will be 5 times messier than you think it will be. They could declare the area behind my barn as a hazardous waste sight.
Anyway, very doable with the right tools. Good luck, Ruff

 

[carogator]

i have done two myself. one was after a local rebuilder did it twice and still had leaks. clean means a lot. light honing to break glaze. don't force anything.
good luck!

 

[Digger Dan]

Go for it, Only if your handy though, I have done maybe 8 to 10 in my time and its not that difficult. Some of the more modern machines might be more of a challenge though with way tighter tolerances....

 

[ScottAR]

I echo what everybody has said. I've done two on my 580D.
Everything is really tight, fairly heavy, and really messy.

BUT! Not that complicated. When you get the gland nut loose...
You end up with a lump like this. This is actually my newly rebuilt one
but you get the idea.

 

[ScottAR]

Then you get out the big honker of a bolt off the end...

 

[ScottAR]

Then you take the piston end apart and slide the gland off.
Now the cleaning begins.

 

[ScottAR]

Then you spread out the new stuff and installation is the reverse
of removal. (Don't you love it when they say that.)

The green one is the dirt wiper and the one you can see on
the outside. You guessed it, it wipes dirt off the ram.

The thick black ones on top are the nylon/delrin? wear rings.
they go on the cylinder end piston. The small thicker one
goes inside the gland.

The thick cream colored one is the U cup seal. The main seal
to keep the ram from leaking. The smaller clear one is a buffer.
Keeps shock loads from the U seal. The thin cream colored one
is also a buffer. Mine did not use it. Yours being newer might.

The big oring/backer goes on the outside of the gland nut.

Happy wrenching.

 

[davetile]

To get the gland nut off I remove the pin from the eye of a stabilizer cylinder and put the eye of the cylinder I'm working on in that. Then I put a jack stand with a piece of wood or heavy rubber on it to protect the chome end close to the gland. I use a cheap 3/4 " socket set and put the big socket on the nut or bolt and use a 4 foot pipe wrench on the socket. The cheap socket allows the pipe wrench to dig into it.

 

[2cor517]

Hello all. First post here. I hate to ask a question like this on my first post, but I'm hoping you all might be able to help me out.

I have a JD170 Skid Steer, one of the lift cylinder ram seals is leaking. I have ordered the rebuild kit from my local dealer. I could take the cylinder to the dealer for repair, but I would rather repair it myself. My question is about getting the gland nut off. All the gland wrenches I see online have dowels designed to go in holes in the gland. My gland does not have them. It has four square notches around the circumference. What is the proper tool to remove it?

I really appreciate any help you might be able to offer.

Thanks, Palmer

 

[willie59]

Welcome to the forum 2cor517. :usa

After you make 3 posts to any thread (except TGIF) you will become a Junior Member. After a short period of time you will be able to start your own thread.

 

[NJfarmer]

Fasstang65,
A lot of good advice has been given to you. My two cents worth, 3/4" drive socket set, and if its your first time a digital camera can answer that annoying question "where did that go". Good luck

 

[carogator]

be careful about backup o-rings .. they are grooved to fit one way if used in your cylinders

 

[tloft]

Gland Nut Wrench

Will THIS fit anything on my 580B? Thanks in advance

.. Tom

 

[2cor517]

I cant put pictures up yet. I used a punch and hammer to try loosening what I thought was the gland nut. It was just a locknut, about a quarter inch thick. It is cast, and I broke it.

It has internal threads. I have no idea how to get this apart from here.

 

[tloft]

that last item was removed from ebay .. try THIS ONE

will it fit any gland nuts on my 580B?

 

[ScottAR]

That's a smaller one than the one I bought. Mine has 5/16" pins
for the big pin. It also has a 3/4" drive socket.

The OTC wrench I got is #1266.

 

[tloft]

Right Scott .. there is also THIS ONE for sale .. it's 3/4 drive & has 5/16" pins & reverses to 1/4" pins