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forestry guarding, or cab guarding, for hitachi ex 120 or similar

Discussion in 'Excavators' started by northmanlogging, Jan 5, 2017.

  1. northmanlogging

    northmanlogging Member

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2014
    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    western Warshington
    Hello again,

    Looking to fabricate some log guarding fer my excavator, I could buy... but I can also weld so

    What I'm lookin for is attachment points, hows every one else doing it etc, Front side is a no brainer, but behind the cap is kind of a mystery. I'm not a big fan of hackin up sheet metal, cause well... then its hacked, so if I can leave as much as possible factory the better.

    A lot of what I see on the interweb is canadian stuff, with lots of heavy guarding on the side, which is all well and good, but I'd like to be able to lock the door open, and that heavy guarding gets in the way.

    I pretty much work alone most of the time, and I hop in and out of the cab a lot, so dicking with the door every time is a real pain.

    Also most folks use square tubing for this kind of project, and I probably will, but I'm considering using heavy wall angle so it fits closer to the cab, less junk to get hung up on. (like 1/4"-1/2" wall 3"x3" ish) if I go with tubing it will be 3/16-1/4 wall 2" square... Undecided as to what the front is going to look like, probably vertical bars, with some expanded steel on the lower to protect the lower glass, unless I can get my grubby paws on some shaker screens.
     
  2. John Shipp

    John Shipp Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2015
    Messages:
    118
    Occupation:
    my job is my hobby...
    Location:
    England
    Think the idea is to not put it too close to the cab, so that when it gets bent it don't bend the cab (and shatter nearby glass) behind it. For doors, you either got to extend the catch loop so that it still gets latched in a further out position, or carry the roof bars back further and have posts on the counterweight corners and a bar across the back to pick up the roof bar nearest the boom. Then you can still latch door as original. Leave clearance for engine cover to open. Personally I would not use angle, as it can bend sideways to easy. Good luck mate, hope you don't melt holes in your glass! John
     
  3. Plebeian

    Plebeian Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2009
    Messages:
    165
    Location:
    Auckland/ NZ
    NZ tends to use laser (etc) cut plate (25-32mm) for the frame now. The certified plans (cad drawn etc by certified engineers) are usually available off the 'shelf'. There would be Zx120 frame plans from a few places. US$800? plus or minus
    Here it is a case of matching your favoured design/ engineer with the engineering shop (unless you own your own laser cutter) that has a job slot available, and getting the frame tagged/ signed off before going onto the job.
    The ZX120-1 is not too difficult, the zx has a good front plate and the air cleaner/ pipe and a few other parts require modification.
    http://www.active4solutions.co.nz/proddetail.php?id=5 (hitachi rops designs etc)
    There are usually a few ROPS/ FOPS etc equipped used zx120 around on the nz websites to look at the pics.
    Usually an idea to close the door when moving brush, even a lightweight mesh over the window or lexan sidewindows are better than an open door. Electro/hydraulic door ram are used on some heavy cab doors.
     
  4. excavator

    excavator Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Messages:
    603
    Location:
    Pacific North West
    Check with a few excavator wreckers like Rhine Equip. in Washington or Brikers in B.C. There's a good chance they would have complete takeoff units available for less than you can build good guarding. Stay away from angle iron, if you're going to take the time to do it you may as well do it right, use 3" or 4" square tubing. Most people around here weld cat walks along the side and front and then mount 3 of the 4 posts of the cab guard on that. The other post gets mounted to the boom support at the right rear of the cab. As far as the door latch, it's quite simple to extent that out enough for the door to latch. If you need them I could probably get a couple of pictures, might not be a 120 but same basic ideas. What part of Western Wash. are at? I'm up by the BC border.