Ford backhoes

[daman]

If talking the rubber flex lines that goes from the valve body(controls) to the start of the hard lines(boom) it's easily really...

remove the backhoe from the tractor that frees up a lot of space in the back to work in then the key is removing lines but you need to remove one line to get to another the worse part of the job just make sure you do not cross lines,no special wrench is needed I've done it many times on my 4500 with standard tools tho a PITA these lines are very do able.

 

[DGODGR]

If talking the rubber flex lines that goes from the valve body(controls) to the start of the hard lines(boom) it's easily really...

remove the backhoe from the tractor that frees up a lot of space in the back to work in then the key is removing lines but you need to remove one line to get to another the worse part of the job just make sure you do not cross lines,no special wrench is needed I've done it many times on my 4500 with standard tools tho a PITA these lines are very do able.

The design of your 4500 is not the same as that of the 555. I think it would be much easier to remove the floor pan (allowing access to the back side of the valve body, where the hoses attach) than it would be to seperate the hoe from the tractor.
Gary, hoses are one of the easiest things to R&R on the machine. Access can be tricky though. The area between the swing frame and the boom is always congested with hoses, regardless of brand. I would recommend that you put a vaccum on the hydraulic tank. Then begin labeling and removing as you said. Since you are in there already, be sure to check all hoses to see which other ones may need replacement. The vaccum is not an absolute must, but it will help keep the mess to a minimum if you have to leave hoses off for a while. I alsp recommend capping the hoses ends and fittings (again if you will leave things open for an extended period) to prevent wind born contaminants, and rain water from entering your system.

 

[Gary2Wheels]

Thanks guys...I really appreciate your help.I cut a slot from the box end of a 1 1/2 " open end/ box wrench,to make it useful in removing the 1 1/2 " JIC fittings from the lift control valve body...as I said,the clamps were never put back on,although I've come across one each of the 2,and 3 line clamps.It seems like the 6 line clamp on the opening in the rear of the mainframe,and the clamp (4 line?) of the swing post/ boom retaining pin, are important in establishing the correct slack in the lines when the boom is swung L/R..do I need to order them from Ford/New Holland,or can I do without them? I'm trying to get all my little ducks in a row before I get into this.
Daman...thanks for your suggestion about removing the hoe,although it sorta makes me pee in my pants thinking about uncoupling,but more so reattaching it without fu*!&@% up out there in the woods with no auxiliary equipment.Should I just block up underneath it,as the machine sits with the stabilizers up..and just pull away from it once all loose lines are protected from dirt,and the valve body ports plugged?
Pinesd3400,thanks for you help regarding the special wrench for the clamps.As I said,some of them are missing resulting from the last repair someone did on this machine.
My gray hair is about to turn white over tis little job....
BEST to you both,Gary

 

[Gary2Wheels]

The design of your 4500 is not the same as that of the 555. I think it would be much easier to remove the floor pan (allowing access to the back side of the valve body, where the hoses attach) than it would be to seperate the hoe from the tractor.
Gary, hoses are one of the easiest things to R&R on the machine. Access can be tricky though. The area between the swing frame and the boom is always congested with hoses, regardless of brand. I would recommend that you put a vaccum on the hydraulic tank. Then begin labeling and removing as you said. Since you are in there already, be sure to check all hoses to see which other ones may need replacement. The vaccum is not an absolute must, but it will help keep the mess to a minimum if you have to leave hoses off for a while. I alsp recommend capping the hoses ends and fittings (again if you will leave things open for an extended period) to prevent wind born contaminants, and rain water from entering your system.

DGODGR...Thanks for you input.That was sorta my plan...leave the hoe attached.I've gotten six new lines(part# DBNND558EA,49 1/2" long) and hope they are the right ones.Are plugs available from NAPA ffor the lines and valve body ports?
BEST,Gary

 

[daman]

The design of your 4500 is not the same as that of the 555. I think it would be much easier to remove the floor pan (allowing access to the back side of the valve body, where the hoses attach) than it would be to seperate the hoe from the tractor.
Gary, hoses are one of the easiest things to R&R on the machine. Access can be tricky though. The area between the swing frame and the boom is always congested with hoses, regardless of brand. I would recommend that you put a vaccum on the hydraulic tank. Then begin labeling and removing as you said. Since you are in there already, be sure to check all hoses to see which other ones may need replacement. The vaccum is not an absolute must, but it will help keep the mess to a minimum if you have to leave hoses off for a while. I alsp recommend capping the hoses ends and fittings (again if you will leave things open for an extended period) to prevent wind born contaminants, and rain water from entering your system.

Correct i apologize i forgot what model we were talking about.

 

[Gary2Wheels]

no apology necessary,Man...all ideas are welcomed....G

 

[Gary2Wheels]

no aplology necessary guys...I appreciate all suggestions....Thanks,G

 

[DGODGR]

I'm sure that plastic caps are available at any place that sells JIC hoses (NAPA included). If you can't find any duct tape will do in a pinch (if things are clean enough). Another suggestion, a very important one, would be to be sure to set the boom on the ground in a secure way. I'll explain further. When you disconnect all the hydraulic lines there will be nothing preventing gravity from moving the boom, bucket, or dipper. This can be a problem for a couple of reasons. If the boom moves it may crush or damage someone or something. It also will make a big, oily mess as the oil in the cylinders evacuate through the open hose or fitting. It would probably be safest if you can stretch the boom and dipper all the way out, leaving the bucket fully curled, and set it down on the ground. Then cut the fuel to the engine (to turn it off-If I remember correctly the older 555s had a fuel cut off knob that you pull to kill the engine). Then operate ALL of the levers (including the loader functions) to relieve all residual system pressure. This will prevent you from finding an oily surprise when you loosen the hoses.

 

[Gary2Wheels]

...thanks.Man!..ALL good ideas.I've got he boom fully extended at 270 degress,slightly up hill..but have'nt curled the bucket.It's fully extended.I have both stabilizers down with a big log placed under the boom pivot to take the weight.I'm on bedrock,but still nervous and hope I don't have to get under the machine to access any of the hard lines at the lift control body.Will the stabilizers collapse if loaded with the backhoe section of the hydraulic system relieved (probably so,I think).I'm hoping to find JIC caps for the control body ports.
Best,Gar

 

[oldman1]

i have two ford backhoes and have been satisified with both

 

[Gary2Wheels]

...they're built well.My 750 tlb is a strong machine,even though it's got many hours on it.

 

[Gary2Wheels]

This job is turning out to be REAL difficult....as I can't access the connection b/t the flex hose and steel line leading to the control valve body,I'm trying to get the line out by first disconnecting it entirely from the control valve body (difficult enopugh!),then either breaking the flex/steel ine connection,or pulling the entire assembly up though the rear deck plate opening.Has anybody replaced hydraulic lines on a 750TLB before?..I'd sure like some ideas. A friend suggested cutting the old flex line with hacksaw,then removing the two pieces.According to the book,the for lines leading up through the boom are supposed to be 49 1/2" long,and the two for the lift cylinder circuit are 42" long.I'm thinking that getting a flare union fitting, to connect the new lines to old,then pulling them out is one way of doing it...ANY ideas men?...

 

[DGODGR]

Correct i apologize i forgot what model we were talking about.

This job is turning out to be REAL difficult....as I can't access the connection b/t the flex hose and steel line leading to the control valve body,I'm trying to get the line out by first disconnecting it entirely from the control valve body (difficult enopugh!),then either breaking the flex/steel ine connection,or pulling the entire assembly up though the rear deck plate opening.Has anybody replaced hydraulic lines on a 750TLB before?..I'd sure like some ideas. A friend suggested cutting the old flex line with hacksaw,then removing the two pieces.According to the book,the for lines leading up through the boom are supposed to be 49 1/2" long,and the two for the lift cylinder circuit are 42" long.I'm thinking that getting a flare union fitting, to connect the new lines to old,then pulling them out is one way of doing it...ANY ideas men?...

Daman, it seems as though I owe you the apology. I thought he was talking about a triple nickel (555) but he was/is asking about a 750. I think that your 4500 is closer to the 750 than a 555.
Gary, you might be wise to follow Daman's advice. I'm not quite sure what trouble you are having. If it's too tight to turn a conventional combination wrench I suggest using "angle" wrenches. I had to buy a set for working on my skid steer (very tight). They will be open end, shorter than conventional wrenches, and the angle of the working end will be sharper as well. This allows work in tighter areas.
Sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck.

 

[herc983]

750 hyd lines

Over the years I've done them a bunch of times. Have cut some HF wrenches up to get into tough places. Depending on which line you may have to take steel line off control valve to get access & take adjacent ones off to get at them. Not bad to do after you get the right wrenches & get the hang of it. BUT, Ive never had a machine that had a cab, understand that makes access tougher

 

[Gary2Wheels]

....yep,mine's got a cab...well,after using every curse wlord in a sailor's dictionary,I did get the old one out.New lines I had already orderded using the part # in the parts manual,turned out to be for the 6500,not 750tlb(7500) series.The ends on the 750 are JIC16's,but the new lines I have in hand have JIC12 ends....so I'm having new lines made up locally(almost $100 a pop!).I'll be back at it next week,and hope I can remember the configuration of things.The steel lines attached to the control body are configured such that they appear to stack when viewed through the end of the main frame...and working on yer back,alone gets old quick.Thanks for your ideas..I did cut the box ends of a 1 1/2" and 1 1/4" wrenches to make them into large scale brake line wrenches.I must have cleaned out at least 50 lbs of dirt,old grease and whatever so far.The worst part has been working w/o electrical power or running water!..

 

[pinesd3400]

Thats an idea I never though of, cutting box wrenches. I know what your going through, its bad enough doing this inside
the garage. Another major pain, just wait till the starter takes a dump in a snow storm. I got so34q*% off I hired a guy
for $100 to do it plus $200 for the starter. (was to cold for me) plus I had to raised the loader up with my loader.
Engineers should be given a toolbox, and big changes will be made, and I dont only mean Ford, but everything else.

 

[Gary2Wheels]

....and now I find the four hosees have ends that are JIC14 and JIC16 for the bucket and crowd circuits...by Wednesday I should be good to go.The profit margin on hoses is excessive..it's costiing me more to have two hoses made up than it did to get six off the internet..

 

[Gary2Wheels]

I've finished changing out the line,and am trying to get information on bleeding the hydraulic system.Can anyone help?.....there's no reference to the produre in the service manual.

 

[jughead]

mine has always bled itself. just make sure the tank is full and start it up. keep it full until everything works

 

[Gary2Wheels]

thanks JH..I sorta hoped it would,but just wanted to make sure before crankin' up.