Deere 333d not moving

[Austin9159]

I bought a 2011 333d that originally had a glitch in the electrical causing the gauges to cycle when you hit the throttle, turned out to be the alternator over charging. Fixed that, no codes but after putting the lap bar down, seat belt on and pushing the hydraulic unlock nothing works. Lights go out for the parking brake and hydraulic lock but it doesn’t drive nor any bucket functions. All the safety’s are showing on and the joysticks show movement in the diagnostics screen. Any insite? Hydraulic oil is full, buttons on the joysticks work. When I hit the parking brake release in diagnostics it turns off and back on when you release the button

 

[mg2361]

Machine serial number would be a plus.

Do you have a gauge to check charge pressure? It is measured at the quick coupler at the filter near the battery.

No travel or hydraulics with no codes and all the lights on the monitor doing what they are supposed to leads me to a pump coupler. Charge pressure test would confirm that.

 

[Austin9159]

Serial is 1T0333DMVBD205383. I don’t have a gauge for it, can you check pressure in the diagnostics menu? If not I’ll buy a gauge

 

[mg2361]

can you check pressure in the diagnostics menu?

Nope

 

[Austin9159]

Okay, I’ve got a pressure gauge coming and will check it Monday. Thank you, is it possible to replace the coupler without removing the engine? Just chain up the engine and pull the pumps forward?

 

[mg2361]

is it possible to replace the coupler without removing the engine?

Yep. Pull the pumps.

 

[Austin9159]

That’s it, I put a gauge on it tonight, no pressure, push in the center detent on the fitting and nothing comes out. What causes that coupler to break? I’m trying to piece this puzzle together. Bought the machine and the guy told me it needed a head gasket because the oil is milky. Turned out it was like someone sabotaged it because I could tell it wasn’t coolant in the oil, it was water. Flushed the engine, put new coolant in it and have put 2hrs on it and oil is still clean. Crank machine and the gauges sweep every time you hit the throttle or turn the throttle up. Replaced the alternator(voltage was so high it was resetting the computer) and that went away and now this. This should be the last thing though because it seems like a solid machine and cutting the filters open revealed no metal in the oil.

 

[mg2361]

So either your drive coupling is shot, or the drive between the hydrostatic pumps and the hydraulic and charge pumps is wiped out.

 

[Austin9159]

Coupler was shot, then pulled the filter and it was full of aluminum. Any easy was to tell if it’s the main pump or high flow pump?

 

[Austin9159]

Well the shaft is nearly sheared on the hyd pump

 

[Simon C]

It was about to grenade. Not sure what a pump is worth. Could there be cuttings hiding in some other places. May need to do major clean up.
Simon C

 

[Austin9159]

$2000 from the dealer, I’ll drain the oil, flush the system and hopefully it’ll be ready to work after that

 

[mg2361]

When standing in front of the machine and looking in, just to the left of the hydrostatic pumps, mounted on the floor, is a return manifold. That has a screen in it. Disassemble that. Post pictures of the debris that may be in the screen. Post a picture of the debris from your filter while you are at it. If that debris made it the return manifold, then a major clean up is the only way to properly address the contamination issue.

Any easy was to tell if it’s the main pump or high flow pump?

Nope. Have to disassemble them.

 

[Austin9159]

There’s some in there, not really packed but there’s a fine dust caught in it

 

[Simon C]

I would see what mg2361 says from his experience, but I would say that there is probably more hiding in some elbows or elsewhere.
If not cleaned, some spool or solenoid will probably get hung up.
Simon C

 

[mg2361]

$2000 from the dealer, I’ll drain the oil, flush the system and hopefully it’ll be ready to work after that

That's cheap. If they are going to do that and stand behind it, let them do it. My experience has been when shrapnel gets spread through the system, it is time for the catastrophic clean up. On those machines that can run up to $30,000 from a dealer. That return manifold screen shows that some metal made it that far, so it is probably in everything.

 

[Austin9159]

Not $2000 for the shop to do it, it’s $2000 just for me to buy the pump from them. I’ll be doing the labor myself

 

[92U 3406]

IMO you are too far gone for a simple drain & flush with new filters.

I'd be pulling out the reservoir for a thorough cleaning and pigging every possible line I could reach at a bare minimum. If there's lots of metal in the lines then its time to open up the valves for an inspection/cleaning.