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D7E brake changeout

texaschad25

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Messages
78
Location
Grandview, TX
I'm thinking that it's time to change out some pads on the 7E 48A. Right brake still works but the left brake is at full adjustment and won't hardly turn the machine. Is there a "shortcut" or easier way to get to them without having to remove half the top of the machine? Also seems like I have a little more brake backing up than I do going forward. I've also notices that there is some white milky residue on the adjustment bolts on both sides.
 

lantraxco

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
7,704
Location
Elsewhen
In a former life I did one of these, sorry to say it's just one of those jobs where you keep removing stuff until you get to the worn out piece. Pull them both when you get there, no sense having to do the job again in a year for the other side. Have your local CAT dealer machine the brake drum so the new bands get a good grip. Have a look at the steering clutches and make sure they're not near end of life. Also check the bearing play.

Since brakes get used a lot more pushing than reversing that's typical, when you back up the other less worn end of the band is cinching down on the drum.

Milky white usually means water in the oil.

More experienced hands will be along with better advice I'm sure :cool:
 

John C.

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
12,870
Location
Northwest
Occupation
Machinery & Equipment Appraiser
There is no easy way to do anything on the older Cats. As lantraxco says, start from the top and work down. I liken the process to gutting out a bumble bee. Find yourself some good gloves because everything in the tub on one of these machines will grab, bite sting, cut and generally turn your hands into hamburger. When you park the machine to do the job make sure you tie the blade up in the air somehow because in order to remove the drum and clutch bolts you will have to move the machine slightly so the drums turn enough to allow access to the mounting bolts. But then again you have a lot of stuff to remove before you get that far in.

Good Luck!
 

DPete

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2007
Messages
1,677
Location
Central Ca.
The only shortcut would be if it had 3 piece brake bands that bolt together like the old 14A's then you don't have to pull the steering clutches to change bands. Pretty sure they will be 1 piece though, not familiar with 7's good luck
 

texaschad25

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Messages
78
Location
Grandview, TX
That's what I was afraid of hearing. Changed them on my D4D last year and it was much the same way. I found out later though that I could have gone in thru the access panels on the back, but it probably would have been just as hard doing that as doing it the hard way. Thanks for the input, guys.
 

tctractors

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2,419
Location
Worc U.K.
Firstly, I have changed the brake bands in a 951A (same as D4) in about 2 hours with the 3 piece band, sadly the D7E will keep you a little more focused as it starts by removing the fuel tank, it is possible to do them with a soft cab in place but easier if the cab is off, the blade and the tracks can stay on, all you have to do is jack the tractor forward to get at the drum bolts.
tctractors

p.s. 48A is power shift with wet deck.
 
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