D6n xl

[Bo McCoury]

Have an error code and machine dies switching from high idle to normal with the rocker button. error code 8830.5 on d6n 2007 Dja00243 Thanks for the help.

 

[Mark250]

hi could you recheck your error code please
Mark

 

[Nige]

As Mark said, the Diagnostic Code is incorrect or incomplete. It should look something like 036.883.05

 

[Bo McCoury]

Ok, thanks. I will see if i read my friend's writing again. He sent me another list. 036- eo539.1, eo366.11 030- 0296.12, 2956.09 I hope i have some of them correct. I will ask him to read them again. Thanks

 

[Nige]

036 is the engine control
030 is the monitor system.
E539-1 is a high intake manifold air temperature Event.
366.11 is neither a Diagnostic Code nor an Event
296-12 is a Diagnostic Code produced when the Electronic Control Module (ECM) detects the loss of the transmission oil pressure, transmission oil temperature, & parking brake status signals.
2956-09 is neither a Diagnostic Code nor an Event.

 

[Bo McCoury]

Thanks I will run out in the morning and get the codes myself. I don't thank he is writing them down correctly.

 

[Nige]

Not trying to yank your chain, but unless the Codes/Events are correctly identified from the start we could having you running round in circles chasing shadows which will only lead to frustration on both sides.

 

[Bo McCoury]

Yes I understand. Thanks. I took a picture of the codes this morning. 036- eo361.1 0261.11 eo398.2 eo688.2 eo172.1 eo687.2 e0539.2 eo539.1 eo361.2 Took a video so I could stop them to write them down. Thanks for your help.

 

[Bo McCoury]

My memory is not very good anymore at the age of 67 but seems 0261.11 is a fault between the crank sensor and the sensor on the high pressure pump. Seems if one of them are bad the injectors won't open. Thanks
0261.11 is the only code that has serv code beside it.

 

[Nige]

Good point. All the others can be put to one side for now. The Active Code is what needs diagnosing & fixing first. I'll take a look when I get into work in the morning.

 

[Bo McCoury]

Ok Thanks

 

[Mark250]

no serial number given so could be the 6.6 or 7.1 engine. because you have a timing offset fault it is a fair bet that you have the prefix PER which is the C6.6 .if so it is known that the pump timing can slip due to incorrect torqueing of the fuel pump shaft nut which locks the gear to the shaft (no key with C6.6- 7.1 has a key) .if you have a no start condition disconnect one speed sensor at a time and try to start.
in the early days of these engines there where a lot of warranty calls for this fault
I do have a procedure to check the fuel pump timing that we developed without using the special tooling as listed in SIS

 

[Bo McCoury]

Serial number was in the first post. Dja00243 It will start with a shot of either and run fine after that. Dies sometimes when hitting the rocker switch from high to low idle. Seems if the timing was off, it would that not run very well, just guessing. I will check the sensors and get back to you if I need to check the timing because I don't have the timing tool. Thanks Pump has no key

 

[Nige]

As Mark said this is related to engine timing. The full spiel is as follows. If I were you I would take him up on his offer of a procedure to check the timing without requiring the arm full of special tooling that the manual calls for:-
Conditions Which Generate This Code:
The Electronic Control Module (ECM) detects the following conditions:

• The primary speed/timing sensor and the secondary speed/timing sensor are off by more than 8 crankshaft degrees.
• The engine has been running for more than five seconds.
• Diagnostic code 0190-08 is not active.
• No 0041 diagnostic codes are active.

System Response:
This code will not be logged. A warning will appear on the display on the control panel when this code is active.
Possible Performance Effect:
The pressure in the fuel rail may be unstable and the engine may not run smoothly.
Troubleshooting:
Check the timing of the fuel rail pump. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Fuel Injection Pump - Install".

 

[Bo McCoury]

OK thanks Nige , When does he come on so I can ask him? Thanks to all of you.

 

[Nige]

He's based in Australia so it will be later this evening.

 

[Mark250]

hi will have to stop speed reading missed the serial number on the first line

 

[Bo McCoury]

Super mark, Thanks. I will pin the engine in the morning and check the pump tooth. Here is the whole story. Two days ago the number 2 injector line had a leak blowing fuel everywhere. Line was changed and it never started again without a little shot of either. Always started right away before line was changed. The big red light was flashing in the middle of console, but he said been flashing every since he had it. Today O decided what the heck and changed the crank sensor below the ecu right above the starter. Machine started right up. Well I let it run about a minute and pushed the throttle pedal down and hit the high idle toggle switch, as soon as I hit the switch it died again. Would not start unless a little either is applied. After changing the crank sensor the large red light in center of dash is no longer flashing. Tried a few times with the high idle switch. I tried the fast idle switch several times. Sometimes it kills the engine, sometimes it raises the rpms and sometimes it does nothing. Fuel pressure rail sensor has 4.9 reference volts (unplugged with key on), one wire has 10.7 volts,third one has nothing. Ok thanks Mark and Nige, I will check timing in the morning.

 

[Bo McCoury]

Hi guys, well timing seems to be a little off. Don't know why replacing the fuel line could cause this problem, but I will go for it. Just a quick question. Do I pull the water pump, front cover to pull the gear off the pump? Thanks

 

[Bo McCoury]

Hi guys, just a little update. Had code 0261.11 which the pump was out of time. Took Marks suggestion on how to time it. Pined crank on #1 pined camshaft on #1 removed front cover and timing marks were on #1, pulled fuel rail pump gear lined the big tooth to the top edge of the sensor hole. Still had a no start. low and high pressure fuel is good when turning engine over, rpms above 150 when cranking. So used a shot of either to start it and let it run for 5 minutes. Shut it down and now have no active codes. Checking found a burnt wire going to the starter. Where does the black wire from the started go (small black wire) comes from a small round box bolted to the front of the starter and runs into the main harness? Engine does turn over. Checked the end of the wire in the harness. It is grounded, checked the other end of that wire while cranking engine over and has 24 volts. Thanks guys