D69U blade won't stay up

[Old Magnet]

If I remove the cylinders again, and drop the blade, what's the best procedure to get them empty before unhooking. Took a bath last time!

Any way you do it there's going to be some mess. The least mess would be by cycling the blade and draining at the tank. Would take a fork lift or another tractor/loader to do that effectively. Those cylinders are to big to cycle them manually but probably could be done with come alongs.

 

[yellercat]

Sorry Mag, by PRV I actually was referring to the IRV or internal relief valve, should have just spelled it! When the shop told me they changed those seals makes me suspicious if they are hard, because I did not get that impression from my discussion with the employee. He is same guy that said the piston seals were 'visually' ok. Thinking that I will stay while they do the work if I take them back in.
Guess I will block the blade up and drain the tank, same as I did to change the fluid from ISO 10 to ISO 48. There was some very slight improvement with that change.
Thanks for the clarification on the test procedure, it's on my do list.
Appreciate everyone's replies.

 

[Old Magnet]

Nothing has been discovered so far. Original oil spec is a SAE 10W, ISO 46 is equivalent to a SAE 20. Some change in performance indicates there is leakage/wear in the system. The fact that you had the problem before the cylinders were worked on still indicates to me there is a pump issue, or relief valve as originally mentioned.