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CAT 955K wont ramp up and looks to be spraying oil from oil pan/engine gasket

tctractors

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Oct 9, 2007
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Worc U.K.
To test for fuel (Diesel) in the E/O put an amount on a bit of Shop Towel paper and set alight the paper if it flairs up its diesel doped, the fuel transfer pump and the injector pump have waste pipes on them that should drip if the seals are failed, these pipes often get pegged up with dirt so check them out, the hour meter face is another fuel drama spot that people seal off fuel leaks only to knacker their engine, the longer you leave the fuel tank tap open the more fuel will drop into your sump?? I would turn the tap off under the tank to save some mess and cost.
tctractors
 

wildhog

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Jan 26, 2016
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texas
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engineer
Ok. I drained all crank case oil and got a whole lot of diesel smelling, thin oil. I would say there was about 12 gallons total when manual says 5 gallons is the capacity. Very thin. I took pictures of what I believe is the fuel pump. Lots of diesel around it.
 

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kshansen

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The thing the hour meter mounted to it is the fuel transfer pump, a small gear pump that move fuel to the injection pump.

I see someone has been using silicone to replace or patch up old gaskets so I'd be a little leery of those points. I forget if there are passages in those places where fuel and oil could be swapping places. The transfer pump looks like it has been changed recently as there is no paint on it, but that's not a guarantee it's not bad.

I believe the 1/4 inch line in this picture below is the "Vent Line" that should be open at the lower end to let any fuel that leaks past the seal in the transfer pump drain off before getting forced in to the engine oil past the oil seal.

drain line.png


I know if it was my engine I'd be pulling the complete fuel system off it and replace at least all those siliconed up gaskets and any other gaskets and orings I could change.


One more thing. When was this strainer removed and cleaned, and new gasket installed? See arrow in picture below:

strainer.png

If you need a list of gaskets and seals I might be able to come up with one for you.
 
Last edited:

wildhog

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texas
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I have never cleaned that strainer, but I will now. I have only owned the machine for a few weeks, so I am not familiar with the history. I will take your advice replace all silicone sealed interfaces with the proper gaskets. A list of all those would be great, but don't go to huge amount of trouble to get them. One problem I have is that the loader is down all the way and I would like to raise it. I am thinking I will put some oil back in engine and run it just long enough to get the loader arms out of the way. Do you think that is safe to do? Also, do you think that this fuel overfilling the crank case caused the leaking that I saw when the engine was running the other day? Is the fact that it's so thin the reason that the governor won't release to let the injector pump throttle up? Or is the leaking oil/fuel seal causing a drop in oil pressure and not allowing the governor to release? In other words, do you think that if all seals are fixed and fuel stays where it needs to stay and oil stays where it needs to stay, that everything will work fine?
 

Bob/Ont

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Check the engine oil filter for metal chips before spending another penny on parts. I suspect trouble from the conversations here.
Later Bob
 

wildhog

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texas
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To properly inspect, do you mean to cut this filter? I have looked at and did not see any metal parts. I also emptied the oil I drained last night, and didn't see anything major in the bottom. There were some very small metal shavings but nothing major. What are you suspecting Bob?
 

Old Magnet

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Corralitos, California
Lubrication for the governor and fuel injection pump camshaft is supplied from the engine oil system. Flow is to these items then returns to the main engine sump. With those goober gaskets I suspect sealing is not correct and your leaking fuel into the system at a flange location.
 

kshansen

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Check the engine oil filter for metal chips before spending another penny on parts. I suspect trouble from the conversations here.
Later Bob

I was thinking about that same thing this morning. Cut open the oil filter and see what if anything is in there. If it only ran a short time with the fuel diluted that much might not be any real damage but if it has been run hard for hours or days diluted then there could be a problem! One problem could be that silicone, some of that stuff will swell up when exposed to fuel oil and if there are gobs sticking on the inside like those on the outside and a piece comes loose it could plug an oil galley somewhere. It could be part of the problem with it not "ramping up" if the piston on the fuel injection pump has it's port restricted by the silicone.

If the filter looks good I'd hook up at the least a temporary oil pressure gauge then refill with oil and start it and see what you have for pressure. Would not hurt to also have a working fuel gauge, think you should see around 30 psi fuel pressure when running.

And if you do lift up those arms make sure you have them well supported, do not depend on the hydraulics! Something could leak, a hose fail or even someone bump a control while working on it.
 

wildhog

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I can tell you it has not run long since I have had it. Maybe thirty minutes total? most of that at a low idle. I will cut open the filter.
 

tctractors

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Is the oil filter a spin on item or a canister held by a bolt at the top? I would be thinking the lifting of the arms might be handy and lock them up might be a good idea in case the engine is full of Sparkles, the glop that is being used for a gasket and looks new fitted might have knackered the engine, this could well be why you have not had it for long.
tctractors
 

wildhog

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texas
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it is a cannister held on by a bolt. i have looked at it and did not see any metal pieces in it. It looks to me like the oil flow comes from the block to the injection and transfer pump and I guess it goes back in to the block. Old Magnet says it goes into the sump next. If I look in the oil pan and this goop has actually broken off the I should see some in there I guess. Unless the galley from the injector and transfer pump down to the sump is clogged. I am still confused as to how the oil could spray from the oil pan seal. When I drained to oil pan the other day, the diesel/oil mixture was dripping from the pan gasket seal. I will for sure need to replace this.
 

Old Magnet

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Pan gasket was probably leaking to begin with. Now with the high level in the pan the crankshaft is slinging the mix as though it was pumping. Results are what your seeing. With luck the fuel source is at the injection pump/transfer pump location. If that silicone migrated in to the oil distribution system more serious events are likely.
 

wildhog

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Ok, that makes sense then. I will start the process of putting gaskets where the silicone seals are. When removing the injection pump or transfer pump, is there any thing I should be careful with? Like springs or snaps rings that may get lost?
 

ITAMECH61

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Jan 31, 2016
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venezuela
Hay you must check the fuell transfer pump this is located near to inyection pump when the transfer pump seal is damage the fuel come dawn in the oil pan and increase the volume of the oil
 

ITAMECH61

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Jan 31, 2016
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Location
venezuela
Hi you must check the fuell transfer pump this is located near to inyection pump when the transfer pump seal is damage the fuel come dawn in the oil pan and increase the volume of the oil
 
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