JustinG
Well-Known Member
No actual plug, should be a hex head on the side to open the valve. I will try to get a picture of my sump I have off my engine.
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CAT 941B Track Bushing Replacement Help
- Thread starter dmcschultz
- Start date
JustinG
Well-Known Member
The drain on mine does have threads for a plug, didn't have one in it though.
Last edited:
Nitelite
Senior Member
What Justin is trying to tell you is that that drain is accessed from the side of the oil pan. In fact, the radiator hard nose has a hole in it, about 1" diameter that lines up with the drain bolt in the side of the oil pan. I think it is a 1/2 drive that fits it, Slide your drain pan under the pan. Poke an extension through the hole in the hard nose and insert it into the fitting. Turn it to the left and oil should start to drain from the bottom drain. Understand, while standing up, work from the side if the tractor through the access hole, you do not need to crawl underneath the tractor to change the oil.
Nige
Senior Member
Judging by the photos those rollers might not even be good enough to re-shell, it all depends if they still have oil in them - first thing to do is take the little plug out of the end of the roller shaft and see what comes out. If any roller is dry inside the chances are the shaft will be toast. Cost of shaft + roller shell w/bushes + 2 Duo-Cone seals is likely to be more than the cost of a complete roller, and that's before we start considering those end caps that have holes worn in them by the track links.
As another comment on my post #99 above regarding ensuring your existing shoes will fit the replacement track link groups. 38 shoes a side x 2 = 76 shoes @ $20 a pop. That comes to $1,520. Hmmmmmm............ If it means paying $200 extra to get track links that will fit the shoes you plan to re-use I would say it would be money well-spent.
As another comment on my post #99 above regarding ensuring your existing shoes will fit the replacement track link groups. 38 shoes a side x 2 = 76 shoes @ $20 a pop. That comes to $1,520. Hmmmmmm............ If it means paying $200 extra to get track links that will fit the shoes you plan to re-use I would say it would be money well-spent.
dmcschultz
Well-Known Member
Nige,
Those are the rollers I planned to replace from the start. The others on the other side don't look all that bad, I brushed off some of the dirt and was able to read some info on them, Looks like BERCO CR1317 C Made in Italy.
On the shoes/chains. I'm going to talk to Jeff @ offroad and give him the run down on the situation, i.e. aftermarket chains, and see what he says. I totally agree, a few hundred dollars vs $1500'ish is a no-brainer. If necessary I'll send Jeff an outline of the shoes/w bolt pattern.
Those are the rollers I planned to replace from the start. The others on the other side don't look all that bad, I brushed off some of the dirt and was able to read some info on them, Looks like BERCO CR1317 C Made in Italy.
On the shoes/chains. I'm going to talk to Jeff @ offroad and give him the run down on the situation, i.e. aftermarket chains, and see what he says. I totally agree, a few hundred dollars vs $1500'ish is a no-brainer. If necessary I'll send Jeff an outline of the shoes/w bolt pattern.
Nige
Senior Member
OK, my bad. I thought you wanted to re-shell where possible. Berco is one of the major aftermarket undercarriage manufacturers in the world. However if you go down the road of re-shelling on the rollers on the opposite side that are in better condition be sure you advise whoever you buy your parts from of any markings you can see on the rollers because the chances are that Cat OEM spare parts will most likely not fit aftermarket-brand rollers.
I think you should be able to get chains to fit your existing shoes , it's just a question of being aware of the compatibility issue regarding bolt hole pattern and taking appropriate steps to ensure it doesn't catch you out - i.e. cost you major money. I think it's a good idea to send him a diagram of the track shoe bolt hole pattern plus also give him details of the shoe bolt diameter.
dmcschultz
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I looked it up in the parts book I have and indeed that looks like what they are for. I guess an add on.
Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair . . .
dmcschultz
On some tractors and applications rock guards can help keep the chains aligned and stop the machine walking out of tracks thus allowing maximum hours on components . . . I guess you didn't need them. (Big grin)
Cheers.
dmcschultz
On some tractors and applications rock guards can help keep the chains aligned and stop the machine walking out of tracks thus allowing maximum hours on components . . . I guess you didn't need them. (Big grin)
Cheers.
dmcschultz
Well-Known Member
So today I did a little research on those Berco rollers on the left (better side). Called Berco up in WI and spoke with Jeff (what is it with guys named Jeff in the industry) and had a good conversation. When I told him about the chains and the logo ( "T" inside a hexagon) he quickly identified them as Topy chains, sure enough when I look up Topy logo it is what is on the chains.
We talked about rollers, sprockets and chains and he informed me that it's probably a good idea to get the same brand sprocket and chain since the companies use about the same quality of steel and that the hardness of the steel in those parts should be compatible, otherwise if the sprocket rim is one hardness and the chain a different then one of the two might wear more quickly. Seems to make sense.
We talked about rollers, sprockets and chains and he informed me that it's probably a good idea to get the same brand sprocket and chain since the companies use about the same quality of steel and that the hardness of the steel in those parts should be compatible, otherwise if the sprocket rim is one hardness and the chain a different then one of the two might wear more quickly. Seems to make sense.
dmcschultz
Well-Known Member
They probably would have been a nice addition if they were on the machine when I bought it, but I don't think I can justify adding them at this point - although....
Yeah for some reason mine has one (rock guard) on one side but not on the other. I haven't bothered trying to locate another one. I just try to be real careful when turning hard around rocks and other stuff. As Scrub Puller said, I have walked the chain off mine on the side they weren't on. They would help, but they probably aren't as critical where you are though.
dmcschultz
Well-Known Member
So here's the situation for today. The gents at Thompson didn't feel comfortable sending the material from TN to VA, concerned that if something didn't fit there would be bad feelings, I can completely understand this, but they did provide me a name of a company just down the road a bit. Called those folks and they are a BERCO dealer (same as the rollers that are on the "good" side (left) of my machine) and they have a set of BERCO chains, rims, and rollers (for the right side). The issue is the chains are "dry", non-SALT. So I have a decision that I'm looking for some help with. Are the SALTS really worth an extra $700 per chain for what I'm planning to do with the machine, i.e. approximately 200 hours/year. As I understand it BERCO is one of the better manufacturers so are their "dry" chains comparable to a SALT in terms of longevity/performance. The salesman also said they have someone that does their welding on the new rims - which saves me from having to go find someone and wonder if they've ever done this before.
I'd appreciate any wise/sage advice.
I'd appreciate any wise/sage advice.
dmcschultz
Well-Known Member
Update to my last, the salesman called back and said they had a pair of KBC (Also made in Italy) SALT chains for about $100 more than the "dry" chains. So the question now is whether mixing manufacturers between BERCO and KBC will be an issue, KBC chains with BERCO rims and rollers. I asked the salesman about it and he said the SALTS will give me 300-400 more hours and that mixing between different manufacturers wouldn't be an issue, but I'd somewhat expect that from him.
The only thing I would put a dry chain on is an excavator. They make a lot of noise. A SALT chain should last double what a dry chain will. I think it would be best as well to have the rims and the chain by the same brand. Seems like mix matching rollers and idlers isn't a big deal. I have a set of ITR chains on my tractor and they seem to be okay at this point . About 1000 hrs on them with little wear or noise. The next 1000 might tell another story. Are the KBC Korean , if so I wouldn't use them.
Nige
Senior Member
Another vote for SALT, whatever the brand.
Also I wouldn't say that mixing brands between rollers & chains will do much. Let's face it you're won't be the first person to have done it......
Also I wouldn't say that mixing brands between rollers & chains will do much. Let's face it you're won't be the first person to have done it......
dmcschultz
Well-Known Member
But what about mixing chains and sprockets??? Any problems there????
Nige
Senior Member
Not as far as I'm concerned but others may have differing opinions.
I'd vote for SALT also, and in my opinion nothing wrong with Korean steel.
As for the sprockets, there may be some variation but the sprockets will normally be heat treated to match the OEM spec. Also, you get back to your 200 hour a year estimate, it may take ten or fifteen years for you to notice any difference in wear should there be any.
As for the sprockets, there may be some variation but the sprockets will normally be heat treated to match the OEM spec. Also, you get back to your 200 hour a year estimate, it may take ten or fifteen years for you to notice any difference in wear should there be any.