Cat 308bsr hydraulics locked out electrically I think

[Leem2]

Hi Guy's,

I'm trying to trouble shoot at the moment, however background to the issue: I was using the equipment and had to jump out to move something, with the engine running. On jumping back in and putting the hydraulic's back on, the hydraulics wouldn't work.

I've played with the solenoid switch under the arm rest and it would appear that it is working correctly. It passes a signal to another switch under the seat that clicks when I depress the armrest solenoid.

Any trouble shooting ideas would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Morgs

 

[DEMLONE70]

Any serial number ?

 

[Mark250]

As above serial number
mark

 

[Leem2]

Hi Guy's, Thanks for your reply's the serial no is 3YS02198 Model 308B
Morgs

 

[Mark250]

hi , this machine is jap import and as such no info on SIS. not even a cross over reference
I have worked on a few over the years and some things are common with the 307B ie final drives
I have one in the yard and will have a quick look later today. But from memory there is a pilot cut off solenoid under the floor.
Mark

 

[Leem2]

Thanks Mark, I played with the cut out switch under the arm rest which sits just above the floor and it would appear that it is working correctly. I can get access to a Jap manual/ schematics. We think its got to be an electrics issue, as it was working one minute and not the next, with the only thing I did was jump out of it for a minute. I need to run back in the schematics and see what other switches/relays there are and also see if anybody on hear has had something like this before.

 

[Mark250]

Hi Leem2
would it be possible to get a copy of the manual and schematic's
Thanks
Mark

 

[Tones]

If you need to get it going in a hurry, disconnect the wires from the cutout switches and join the 2 wires at each plug. That will determan if the switches are failing also.

 

[Cmark]

Take a look at the wiring where it leaves the LH console. It runs through a conduit that flexes as the console moves up and down.

On probably more than half the machines I've worked on with this complaint, the fault was an intermittent open circuit in the wiring in this area. Even if the individual wires look OK on the outside, you can get broken conductors inside. Give them a good old wiggle.

 

[Leem2]

Will do Mark, give me a few days

 

[Leem2]

Hi Tones, I did connect the two cutout sw together and it wouldn't start, ie starter motor wouldn't crank, so think it maybe a little smart. So disconnected them started it connected them and nothing happened, ie no hydraulics. I was told that the system maybe again a little smart to allow this or there is something electrical further down the line that's broken.

I'm guessing in response to your suggestion Cmark, if the machine wouldn't allow me to start it, with the two cutout wires joined together that these wires could then be OK, however I'll give the wires a good wiggle. With the ignition on, when I press down on the cutout switch, I hear a clicking noise from a relay under the seat, so again that would indicate that at least the wiring from the switch to the relay is OK. Where does the wiring from the relay go to, that's probably where the fault lies.

 

[Cmark]

Can you see a part number on any component that should be fairly unique to that model? A casting or a panel for example. We may be able to back track from the part number to a machine similar to yours to get the electrical info.

 

[Parker56]

I found a toggle switch on the rear of the LH control panel and switch it to the opposite position the hydraulics stop working. I down known if some one installed at a later date or what

 

[Nige]

I found a toggle switch on the rear of the LH control panel and switch it to the opposite position the hydraulics stop working. I down known if some one installed at a later date or what

Can you post a photo of the switch that shows exactly where it's located..? From the photo we ought to be able to tell if it's original or an add-on.

 

[Parker56]

3ys02028

 

[Leem2]

Hi Guy's, Thanks again for all your ideas and suggestions. The culprit the hydraulic solenoid valve 112-1491 (safety) that sits under the steel plate under your feet area. The interesting thing about the valve is that you can manually open it with a screw driver, if you need to by pass the safety feature or broken valve. Cost $395 in Oz, $172 shipped from China (genuine) or $105 shipped from China (non genuine). Genuine or non genuine?

 

[Nige]

I think for the extra peace of mind I'd go with genuine, although something in the back of my mind says it will be the same part whether you pay $172 or $105 ........ YMMV.

 

[Parker56]

what's the web site you ordered it from

 

[Leem2]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rotary-...tor-320B-E320C-Red-dot-/151120606536#shpCntId

 

[Leem2]

and this one for the genuine
http://www.liquediesel.com