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Case 621B Center Pivot

brianscathouse

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Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
60
Location
Nelson, BC, Canada
Occupation
Auto repair shop owner/mechanic
Getting the bugs worked out of the 1994 Case I picked up a little while ago, center pivot has some play and seeing as how this setup uses shimmed bearing units for movement and as how this machine was a total rebuild a few thousand hrs ago, is it possible the bearing were shimmed too loose. Everything else about the rebuild seems like it was put together by the apprentice no one liked to help. Most of the repairs I am doing is tweeking and adjusting everything that was taken apart years ago. Thinking of separating halves and trying to tighten the bearings and see if that helps. Looks fairly straightforward according to the manual.
 

brianscathouse

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Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
60
Location
Nelson, BC, Canada
Occupation
Auto repair shop owner/mechanic
The play is all where the bearing unit is. Pin seems tight where it mounts to chassis. This setup uses matched cup and cone bearing units with shimmed preload and pin goes in center of bearing race.Only moving parts are bearings. Unless bearing seizes there is nothing to wear on pin. Just looking for advice from anyone with experience with this setup.
 

RayF

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2011
Messages
640
Location
Perth Western australia
Occupation
lineborer/welder
I have 29 years experience with that setup. The bores that carry the lower and upper part of the pins wear/stretch. This could well be the case with that loader.
 

brianscathouse

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Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
60
Location
Nelson, BC, Canada
Occupation
Auto repair shop owner/mechanic
The pins do not seem to have any movement in the upper and lower bores. Appears all play is in bearing unit. Splitting machine is only way to know for sure I guess.
Sorry RayF not trying to offend with experience comment but another HD tech I asked had no clue about the bearing setup and said same thing you did but about the middle wear section assuming it had a pin/bushing setup.
 

FastYZFR1

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2011
Messages
19
Location
Chicagoland
Hi Brian, what were your findings? I have a 621C that has slop in the center, I have spent a TON of time trying to figure out how to fix mine. I am not sure on what it's going to take to get it line bored, from what I can tell is like your saying the back 1/2 of the machine has a cup that the outer bearing race is held in with a preload on it so I don't think it could destroy the bore there unless things get REALLY bad. I am pretty sure one of my lower bearings failed allowing it to sorta rock on the top pin as it goes up and down I know the edges of the top pin hole have about 1/16" wear so I am sure I will need to get the upper holes done but since that is on the front part of the machine I shouldn't have to pull the cab? trying to find someone who has time to line bore in my area is turning into a chore :(
 

RayF

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2011
Messages
640
Location
Perth Western australia
Occupation
lineborer/welder
Its quite common for the bearing bores to stretch.As it gets worse and the bearing cup takes the shape of the stretched bore the bearings start to fail. You can't adjust a bearing correctly, sitting in an out of round bore. I have line bored heaps of them,from 920 Cats and smaller, to 994's. They all wear out.
 

fast_st

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2010
Messages
1,468
Location
Mass
Occupation
IT systems admin
I guess what I'm curious about is the movement, Is the movement up/down or fore/aft on the top section. I have darned near zero experience save for splitting a 644E and having the lower pivot welded, linebored and a new bushing for the other side. All of my moving was lower pivot fore/aft and the top joint has a spherical bearing that happily swivels but is shimmed. Looks like it was designed to let the lower pin get trashed and not mangle the upper.
 

brianscathouse

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Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
60
Location
Nelson, BC, Canada
Occupation
Auto repair shop owner/mechanic
On mine Rayf was right and it is needing top pin bore redone on front half. Not sure when I will do it as machine is for personal use and doesnt work every day or generate any money for paying for repair.
 

FastYZFR1

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2011
Messages
19
Location
Chicagoland
Brian, I use mine for pushing snow, and also a bit at work moving dirt but mine isn't making me any $$$ till I go to sell it if it's not junk when that time comes. I picked my 621C up for $15,000 it was used for logging in MS and they BEAT it BAD with a grapple on it. The lover pivot bearing grease zerk was broken off so that tells how often it was greased. When I replaced that and started greasing it the excess came out pure orange from rust. I am sure one of the 2 bearings on the bottom is gone which is allowing the machine to pretty much support it's self on the upper bearing and the pin slides up and down in the inner bearing races on the top almost 1/4" all that movement has caused the fixed holes in the front half to become oval I am sure (when I pressure wash it nice and clean I can see some small signs on the edges of that bore being mushroomed from the pin movement). The more I think about it, what Ray is saying as that pin moving up and down in the upper bearings it's almost for sure transferring that rocking force into the bearings and making the cup that holds them become a bit of a oval to match the outer bore that holds the pin.

Fast ST. I guess what I have concluded on mine is that if the lower bearing is worn out that's the area that's designed to support the loads so when there is play there it allows the machine to go up and down in the pivot and the more of that that happens the more it wears the fore aft bore of at least the upper pin bore and maybe the bearing cup.On the Case they use a plate that bolts on the bottom of the lower pivot that in turn pushes the very bottom bearing into the race and there's also 3 bolts that go into the lower pin that pulls it down pulling tension down on the upper bearing into the race thus supporting the loads. Mine likes to snap off those 3 bolts in the pin when you bang it around too much because of all the play. I now find myself looking at EVERY other brand of wheel loader and how the center pivot works Kawasaki looks to use the upper bearing to support the load force and the bottom one looks to be just the idle one so to speak.

I guess my biggest question is at work we need to move 3000-5000 yrds of material VERY soon I have already moved that much with it since I have know of the problem trying to be cautious with it. Do they rent a loader and save mine the wear and tear, Or if I use mine and they put the $2000 or so for a rental towards fixing my bore then I can at least get most of my repair paid for. I have removed my lower pin and had the bolts extracted and replaced a couple times now that helps a lil also took off the bottom plate and removed the shims and flipped it over since there is a large grove worn in it from the lower spacer hammering on it. I might have removed 1/8" of play but I don't thing there is much you can do to shim the lower bearings when they are worn because of how close to each other they sit I doubt you even have 1/4" of a space between the inner races before they bottom out into each other. ANYONE who know's anything about this area PLEASE correct me if I am wrong and I know how bad it feels in my butt with it banging in the center. Do I need to park it till I get it fixed am I just going to make the loader into scrap by running it longer as it is? Rough guess from a visual stand point that play looks to be 1/2" to an inch of movement the loader arms move for and aft from the cab at the pin that looks like 1/4" up and down movement on the pin. I am sure one of the lower bearings is GONE it recently spewed out the spring from the grease seal on the top seal of the lower pivot.
 

RayF

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Jul 8, 2011
Messages
640
Location
Perth Western australia
Occupation
lineborer/welder
Almost everything is fixable but the downside is the worse it gets the more it takes to fix it. Your line borer likely won't do it cheap if he see's its been let go to the point its absolutely knackered and laying on your back welding faces tends to make the invoice writing finger twitchy. o_O
 

fast_st

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Dec 1, 2010
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1,468
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Mass
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IT systems admin
The 644E we picked up was about ready for the scrapyard, The week it arrived we moved 3000 yards of material and the sweet spot was operating it smoothly without letting it bang, so no downpressure on the bucket while digging, took a little getting used to but it all worked, Ran it for six months before splitting and repairing. According to the video, splitting it only took about six minutes :)
 

brianscathouse

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Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
60
Location
Nelson, BC, Canada
Occupation
Auto repair shop owner/mechanic
Made a new top pin and modified it with weld to take up slack in oblong upper pin bore and got rid of 90% of my play. Will work for now and not fully pound out the rest until I find the time and money to fix properly. Not proper I know but this machine only moves a few hours a week. 50$ fix. Bearing seemed ok. Will replace all pins, bearings and seals at a later date when I can get it welded and line bored.
 

fast_st

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Dec 1, 2010
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1,468
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Mass
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had some line boring done with the cab in place guy had a short 2 pc boring bar, cost 1k to weld and bore a couple holes and press the new bushings in
 
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