Case 580C Kingpin issues

[JD750B]

Just got the 580C home to begin work on it. The right kingpin bearings are shot. No problem there. Ordered a kit previously when I noted this issue during one of my "get it running to load" trips. Problem is the left kingpin/spindle is completely frozen. I managed to work it to where I get about 10 degrees of very hard movement using a 10lb sledge hammer and that is it.

What is the best way to get the kingpin out without ruining the spindle and having to buy a new one (kinda pricy). Wonder if it would be cheaper in the long run to find an axle assembly from a junk yard.

Any tips or opinions?
Thanks in advance.

 

[willie59]

You did remove the tapered locking pin? I've worked on them siezed as well. The only tools I've been able to get stuck ones out with is a rosebud and big sledge. Gotta get it really hot. Oh yeah...there'll be some curse words as well. :Banghead :cussing

 

[JD750B]

Kinda what I thought

You did remove the tapered locking pin? I've worked on them siezed as well. The only tools I've been able to get stuck ones out with is a rosebud and big sledge. Gotta get it really hot. Oh yeah...there'll be some curse words as well. :Banghead :cussing

Yes the locking pin actually came out as it should. I was kinda afraid that was going to be the answer. Where you able to save the kingpin? Would it be easier to just cut the kinpin and thrust bearing with the torch and then heat and drive out the remaining short pieces of the kingpin from either end of the axle and the spindle. How expensive are kingpins?

 

[Phil]

Seems to me I did it the way you describe once but it's been a few years. I then put the spindle in a press as I recall. But then you have to buy a new pin.. Maybe it's worn anyway.

There is no substitute for brute force in some cases and lots of heat applied quickly to a large mass, can only be done with a rosebud tip, as ATCOEQUIP has noted. Phil

 

[willie59]

When the bearings go down, the pin is usually trashed anyway. Besides, I think Case sells the kingpin/bearings as a set anyway all tidy in a box. The object is to save the alxe bore (where the bearings go), and the spindle. At this point, you don't give a hoot about the kingpin. You need a large rosebud, just heat from a torch head ain't gonna do it. Heat it quickly, get it out quickly. Don't start...beat on pin...move it a little...then answer phone for 15 minutes...then come back. And once you get it out, you may have to hone the spindle with a flap wheel in a die grinder to get the new pin to fit. Upon re-assembly...apply Never Sieze!

 

[Phil]

I like the way you wrote that up ATCOEQUIP. There is someone on the Ford 4500 thread that needs your help...Phil

 

[alrman]

It also helps to support the axle with a solid steel support & place it as close as you can to the bottom bearing race - this will stop the bounce with each hit of the hammer.....Lots of heat to spindle with heating BIG heating tip & BIG hits with 14lb minimum....fun times ahead!

 

[Phil]

Alrman has a very good point. A hydraulic jack gets used as a support sometimes and it's not the same. Fluid is compressible, not to mention the workout the jack seals get. Same with wooden blocks. Try and get as much mass as possible, under what you are driving against, makes a big difference. An anvil might make a good support, on a concrete floor, although I've never tried it. Be careful of any steel support as it will slide easily, put wooden blocks along side as a safety. Phil

 

[JD750B]

Thanks for the suggestions

I think I will cut the kingpin and thrust bearing with a torch, jack the spindle up and cut the bottom of the king pin. I should then be able to remove the spindle whereafter I can drive out the two short pieces in the axle with a little heat. I can then press out the remaining portion of the kingpin in the spindle using a 30 ton press I have and the liberal application of heat as suggested. This should at least limit the sledge hammer work which is good for the equipment and my body.