Case 580 SK won't start...

[rubberfish]

Are you kidding me?

Your original post states the machine won't start and or run.
And you told us it also won't fire up on ether either. There was
no mention of recently opening the fuel system ie: filter change etc
that would allow air to enter the fuel system. You said it had just been
sitting for a month so I'm ruling out having to bleed the system for now.
If you want to make numerous trips back and forth to Lordco spending time and
money on this and that that's fine, but don't be on here running your mouth when people
are just trying to help you out. May I suggest a little work on your reading and comprehension.

Good day and good luck with your machine.

 

[Willie B]

Time for a well qualified mechanic.

 

[gabtrac]

Got her started this aft.
Pulled the injectors and it looked like the spray was decent on all 4.
Heated the batteries - block heater on all night - bled everything - blew hot air into the turbo.
One small squirt of ether into the turbo as she was turning over - in under 3 seconds she fired and ran smoothly for about an hour before I shut her down for the night.

I want to thank ALL OF YOU for your help, understanding and generous sharing of hard earned knowledge and experience.
I'm not sure if you guys know how very valuable you are - but you are.
All the very best.

 

[Willie B]

Got her started this aft.
Pulled the injectors and it looked like the spray was decent on all 4.
Heated the batteries - block heater on all night - bled everything - blew hot air into the turbo.
One small squirt of ether into the turbo as she was turning over - in under 3 seconds she fired and ran smoothly for about an hour before I shut her down for the night.

I want to thank ALL OF YOU for your help, understanding and generous sharing of hard earned knowledge and experience.
I'm not sure if you guys know how very valuable you are - but you are.
All the very best.

Any theories?

Willie

 

[gabtrac]

Got two Willie B.

One is embarrassing, but partially shared responsibility with my mechanic friend .
The other - she just needed time to warm up with lots of heat applied. Maybe my pulling the injectors and pipes helped, and slowly going over everything in sequence... maybe.

The embarrassing possibility... I had checked that all the operating valves and controls were "free" 2 days ago - it had happened to me before so I knew to check.
But when I reached in this aft just before turning her over I noticed that the right swing pedal for the backhoe boom was down. Not all the way, but it might have been partially engaged. I never checked the pedal, only the sticks... idiot... maybe.
Hoping my experience might help others. My advice certainly won't.
Again, thanks to all, much appreciated.

 

[Willie B]

If you have electricity, Consider removing the air filter cartridge, and using a heat gun into the air intake. I find it often provides quick starts.

Obviously, using block heater, and, or a salamander heater to offer warmth to oil, and block.

Willie

 

[gabtrac]

I actually went one step further.
I removed the intake pipe right up to the turbo charger and shot a heat gun directly into and onto the turbo until it was thoroughly heated.
It was 400' from the shop/electricity so I didn't have a lot of power with 6+ extension cords linked. Thankfully the breaker never popped.

Having the block heater on for so many days with a furniture blanket over the engine simulated tropical conditions.

Removing the injectors took most of the day. But there' a guy on Youtube who explained perfectly how to make a simple puller.
I had already put some penetrating oil on them the night before, so they came out easily once I cleaned the area.

I would like to have done a compression test but at least now I'm confident with pulling the injectors. So it shouldn't be a big deal once I get the proper fitting for the test gauge.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Keep an eye on the copper gaskets on the end of the injector.. there are 2 different sizes 7mm & 9mm..
If they start to leak you'll have to know which size you need.. so next time an injector is out, measure the tip w/ a caliper or micrometer..
They're actually a 1 time use deal, seeing they're a crush seal, but if they arent leaking leave them alone.. same w/ the return line gaskets..
You can spray some liquid around the injector to see if its leaking compression while its running.. check at both low idle and full speed.
The return line will leak fuel when they're bad and not sealing..
I just thought I'd give you 1 more thing to worry about.. lol

 

[gabtrac]

Thanks for the heads-up.
Yes one more thing to worry about.
But it's good to know what the cause/cure is if I find them leaking.
I'll keep an eye on them.

Once the weather gets a bit more agreeable I pull out my new compression tester and pull the injectors again.
I'll measure them and re-install w/new copper gaskets... if it doesn't spring a leak before then.
I've read somewhere (maybe here at HEF) that having the injectors bench tested can often "clean" the injectors if they're not too bunged up.
Is that true?
When I called the local injector guy he gave a price to re-build/clean. It was almost the same as buying new ones...

 

[thepumpguysc]

It just depends on where you get them done, but in most cases, the cost of new Cummins injectors made in Mexico is equal to that of individual parts & labor.. you might save 10- 20.00 on each injector getting them rebuilt at your shop. but then again, I've seen them cheaper NEW online..
You'll just have to check the web..
You HAVE TO find out the size of the tip before ordering.. *thickness*.. they made 2 different heads w/ 2 different size holes for the injector tip.. 7&9mm
Its normal practice to have a 9mm head w/ 7mm injectors but the injectors have a nozzle/tip spacer to fill the gap around the tip..
BUT if you buy 7mm's on the web and have a 9mm head, they probably wont come w/ spacers/adaptors.. you can purchase the spacers from Cummins or aftermarket.
Its JUST BEST to know ahead of time what you need and get the correct ones from the start..
Just alittle information to store away..

 

[gabtrac]

Thank you Sir.
Priceless info - stored!
7mm or 9mm... not a lot of difference.
I'll need to use a magnifying glass.

 

[thepumpguysc]

some cheap digital calipers will do or a micrometer..

 

[Billrog]

I've bench tested injectors with 15,000 hrs. on them and then bought some new ones they were not much at the time $54 each Case wanted $74 at the time but came down to the $54 after they checked I wasn't bullsh--ting them. Then I tried a bench test on a new one and sure couldn't see any dif. visually installed them and the machine ran no different. I'm not saying don't change them just don't replace anything that's working. My oldest son sold a processor ( 325 Cat) a few years ago with 25,000 hrs. and nothing was ever done to the engine and it still running.