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Case 580 CK

antyK

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
12
Location
millville, nj
Any one know where I can get a good pdf copy of the operators and shop manuals? I purchased a pdf shop manual from a site and it was unreadable trash!

I have early 1970s 580 CK that is a rather large lawn ornament at the moment. I would really like to get it running. I have a little mechanic experience, but know nothing about back hoe loaders.

my e-mail is sebcrane19@yahoo.com. Any help would be appreciated.
 

willie59

Administrator
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
13,407
Location
Knoxville TN
Occupation
Service Manager
Have you tried to get it operational? What issues are you having with it? I don't know about the manuals, but Phil knows as much about the CK as anyone here. :)
 

antyK

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
12
Location
millville, nj
I am looking for the manuals, because I really know so little about operating the machine that I am embarrassed to ask my questions, feeling much like I’ll be wasting every ones time.

A friend’s grandfather passed away and they needed to move the machine to sell the house. The machine ran, but did not move forward or backwards. I borrowed a trailer and using the backhoe and hand winches I got it onto the trailer. So for the price of scrap ($400) I gained my lawn ornament.

PART I.
The first thing I did was drain the hydraulic fluid. It was filled with water! I replaced the fluid and now I have forward and reverse, but the machine is a long was from being usable.

Question 1: How could the fluid be filled with water? The machine sat for two years. Is there a place where they leak? Maybe the water is condensation from not running? (There was a lot of water)

I disconnected the backhoe, because it was leaking fluid terribly. I positioned it so that the legs and bucket sat in a triangle, banged out the pins and disconnected the lines. Figured I’d deal with the back hoe after I got the tractor running.

Question 2: The couplers on the tractor leaks whenever it runs. They are located on the lower right hand side of the machine. Fat black lines. I guess the couplers need new seals. How do I rebuild these couplers? What seals? What problems can I expect?

And the next bit. The real silly Questions.

Question 3: What fluids do I change. Where are the drain plugs? Where are the filters? Do you have pictures for their locations? How many quarts and what type of oil.

Question 4: What else does tractor need in this tune-up. I know the yellow thing on top is the air cleaner. It needs to be cleaned and re-filled with oil. Right?

So you see. It’s such simple stuff, but I’m a guy who changes the oil on his cars and is now trying to get a piece of heavy equipment running. I figured if I could get a lead on a set of good manuals I would be okay. I have the shop manuals for my cars and I get buy when something breaks.

PART II.
If I can get the engine running and the machine moving well, then I’ll have to decide if the rest of its issues a fixable on my limited budget.

Exhaust manifold is rusted out.

Question 5: Any ideas on where to get a cheap one?

The last issue I’ve noticed is that the front right wheel has no rubber bushing. Looks like left wheel has two upper and two lower.

Question 6: How do I support the machine? How do I get the wheel off, fix the bushings and then re-align the wheel. Does it have caster-camber?


Thank you very much for your offer of help. I know it’s a lot to answer, which was why I hesitated to post such silly questions. But who know maybe someone has a step-by-step tune-up with photos already done. Or maybe someone knows of a U-tube video.

Maybe it might be best to go question by question in case I get in over my head (or budget at each step). If you all can help, you aid would be much appreciated.
 
Last edited:

nova481

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2010
Messages
196
Location
Howell NJ
Occupation
Retired Union Electrician
I have a 1980 Case 580C. I found both the original parts and service manual on CD on ebay. They both print out clearly whenever I need a certain section. I guess you have to be lucky to get a good one.
 

Phil

Senior Member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
1,067
Location
Southeastern Ontario
Occupation
retired operator and mechanic
Anty,
It sounds like you have a torque converter model. Probably rain water in the shuttle compartment.You may have a bad shuttle cover gasket or possibly the adapter plate gasket. Check the shuttle compartment vent integrity, also the dipstick gasket. Melting snow seems to be the worst culprit.

There is an o-ring visible just inside the big female disconnects(couplers), try replacing them.

Probably a good idea to leave the hoe off. Spool seals are known to leak on the hoe valve body. I just replaced the 12 quad rings on mine, it's about a 3 hour job.

I would change your engine oil,and shuttle oil first. Case TCH oil for the shuttle, about 12-15 liters. I would use a good 10-30 diesel oil for the winter, in your engine, or a 15-40 oil year round. I'm just guessing about 8 liters. Check carefully for coolant in the bottom of the engine oil pan when you drain.

I wouldn't change your trans/diff oil for now, just pull the drain plug to check for water. It's at the bottom rear of the transaxle and takes a 1"socket. The dipstick/fill is just behind the trans cover plate. This compartment can have it's oil changed when you pull the differential cover off, for an inspection.

Getting back to the shuttle compartment, there are 2 drain plugs, each with a 1" head, located underneath the machine,one just behind the engine and one just in front of the transmission.The shuttle has it's own dipstick/fill plug, just like the one on the transaxle behind it. Look for it in the right rear corner of the shuttle compartment cover; that's the cover just in front of the trans cover(has gearshift lever).The shuttle filter also has a drain, at the bottom of the housing. This filter housing is located behind the radiator grill. After changing the shuttle oil and filter, run the machine for 5 minutes, then shut-off and recheck the dipstick level.

Other fluid changes could include the power steering and hydraulic systems. Your engine coolant should be checked for strength, if you do not change it.

Yes, your machine uses an oil bath air cleaner. I believe it's filled to the indicated level with motor oil. Check the screen above it for cleanliness, before reinstalling the pan.

Replacing both fuel filters should be included in a tune-up, as well as draining the fuel tank water trap.

I think you will find a used exhaust manifold out there at a tractor wrecker. There are also new aftermarket manifolds available.

Not sure what you mean by rubber bushings. These machines are well known for front wheel spindle bearing failure. Spindles will 'lean-in' at the top, and raise once the thrust bearing fails also. One can sink a lot of money into fixing these up right. Someone here a long time ago used a plastic insert, like PVC pipe to repair a loose spindle.Try curling your bucket down, then raise the front of the machine off the ground a bit. Block the front end up, then remove the front tire, this allow the spindle to drop out, once the steering arm is removed. There is only a toe-in measurement, I will check my manual.Phil:):)
 

willie59

Administrator
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
13,407
Location
Knoxville TN
Occupation
Service Manager
Don't forget about the shifter boot. A cracked or missing shifter boot is a sure place for water ingress into tranny. :)
 

Ruff01

New Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Messages
1
Location
Milton
I've got a 63 580CK, runs fairly well but lots of hydraulic leaks from fittings and cylinders. How do you go about fixing the leaks? What type of power steering fluid does it require? Finally, where are the brakes located? Mine don't work, I'm assuming they're drums but don't see any. Let me know. Thanks
 

ridefst

New Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2010
Messages
1
Location
Ohio
Finally, where are the brakes located? Mine don't work, I'm assuming they're drums but don't see any. Let me know. Thanks

I presume the brakes are similar to my '68 931CK.
They're manual disc brakes with a bit of power assist, located behind a 12" round cover near the axle on each side.
There is a seal that often goes bad behind them, and a little oil on the surface will cause the power assist to cease functioning entirely, leaving you with virtually no brakes (that's where I'm at right now)
The "power" part is two steel plates separated by three ball bearings that ride on ramps, when the brake starts to catch, it tries to twist these plates, which then ride up on the ramps and expand, making the brake even tighter.
Those balls can also wear down over time, I've heard that slightly larger balls can restore the brakes if wear is the only issue.
I tried that on mine, but my new large balls are still useless (hmmm... maybe not the right forum for that one)

Anyways, the brakes are easy to get to, so pop the covers off and see what you find.
 

planecrazzzy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
190
Location
MN
Occupation
Operator , Cert Welder , Class "A" Truck Driver
Some of the water can come from condensation...

I had this happen on a Skid Loader.... Running it and getting the fluids heated up evaporated the water...

The lower the hydraulic oil..... The more the tank walls can get condensation...

I'm up here in MN.... Your mileage may vary...
.
By the way...
Just Bought a 1990 - 580K , So I'll be around to ask questions...

It hasn't been delivered yet... Can't wait to start my Air Strip.
.
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" the Flying Dogz
.
.
 
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