Case 1835C Uniloader Won't Start After Fuel Filter Change

[JdubyaM]

Hello and Thanks for Any Advice: When I parked the loader, it would run and then cut off, then you could crank it back and it would run for a few mins. and cut off. I found out that the oil pressure was low making it do that so I filled it will oil. The air filter had gotten dirty and sucked a good bit of oil out of the engine and that's why the oil pressure dropped. That was corrected when I changed the air filters and filled it with oil. The oil pressure light does go out now when I spin the starter. I have bled the injectors 4-5 times and fuel does come out of each of the 3 injectors. It does not have any kind of bulb or pump to pressurize the system. All it has is the electric injector pump. I put a new Group 31 battery in it. I guess it could be the glow plugs or maybe the starter needs to turn the engine faster. Thanks Jdubya

 

[DIYDAVE]

I would recommend a compression test, to see what the compression is. Its good to know how it compares to factory specs. Once you get that out of the way, you will know if you have a big bill in the offing. You can take the GP's out to test them, and at the same time, give it a pressure test. Its just a good place to start. other things it could be are bad injectors, or a bad injector pump. others will chime in, who may have more experience, with your model. For reference, give the model of the engine, and any more info, about model, serial # etc...

 

[JdubyaM]

Thanks DivDave.

 

[JdubyaM]

It has the 3 cylinder Case Diesel Engine. It has the Case Emblem on the top of the engine. The CASE 1835C had Gas models too. I can get the numbers tomorrow.

 

[JdubyaM]

The Engine is a TMD20 Continental like this one:

 

[thepumpguysc]

Make SURE you have voltage to the solenoid on top of the pump.. you should hear it click.
Remove the fitting on top of the pump.. all the way down to the cover.. not just the hose or the adaptor.. but the entire fitting.. & try to start w/o the fitting inplace..
If that return fitting gets clogged it wont start.. it can be cleaned out..
Good luck.

 

[JdubyaM]

Make SURE you have voltage to the solenoid on top of the pump.. you should hear it click.
Remove the fitting on top of the pump.. all the way down to the cover.. not just the hose or the adaptor.. but the entire fitting.. & try to start w/o the fitting inplace..
If that return fitting gets clogged it wont start.. it can be cleaned out..
Good luck.

Sounds good!
Thanks for your advice. I will try those things first.

 

[JdubyaM]

Anyone know what PSI the electric fuel pump has on my Case Uniloader 3 cylinder TMD-20 diesel? I am looking to buy a pump but need to know the PSI. Thanks

 

[JdubyaM]

Make SURE you have voltage to the solenoid on top of the pump.. you should hear it click.
Remove the fitting on top of the pump.. all the way down to the cover.. not just the hose or the adaptor.. but the entire fitting.. & try to start w/o the fitting inplace..
If that return fitting gets clogged it wont start.. it can be cleaned out..
Good luck.

Make SURE you have voltage to the solenoid on top of the pump.. you should hear it click.
Remove the fitting on top of the pump.. all the way down to the cover.. not just the hose or the adaptor.. but the entire fitting.. & try to start w/o the fitting inplace..
If that return fitting gets clogged it wont start.. it can be cleaned out..
Good luck.

Do youe know what PSI the electric fuel pump has on my Case Uniloader 3 cylinder TMD-20 diesel? I am looking to buy a pump but need to know the PSI. Thanks

 

[mountainlake]

Here's the pump you want to get, I think its around 6 psi. This is a rotary pump the lasts years instead of months like the pulse type do.
eBay item number:
252116604571

 

[JdubyaM]

This is the one that looks like mine. But only a couple of places sell it and it is $169.
Part # 1959813C1 (labeled #14 below)

 

[JdubyaM]

Make SURE you have voltage to the solenoid on top of the pump.. you should hear it click.
Remove the fitting on top of the pump.. all the way down to the cover.. not just the hose or the adaptor.. but the entire fitting.. & try to start w/o the fitting inplace..
If that return fitting gets clogged it wont start.. it can be cleaned out..
Good luck.

thepumpguysc: Cleaned up everything and checked voltage. Found out fuel pump gets hot and stops pumping. Looking for a inexpensive replacement. Pump in photo above is $160 at Colemans but I can find universal pumps from $12.00 to $30.00 on Ebay. Trying to decide what fits in that small place without all the jury rigging.
Std equip pump has hard pipe fittings on each end, one straight out and the other at 90%. Having a hard time finding a universal pump with the right angle 90% fitting on one end. Mountainlake recommended a rotary pump but I will have to do a lot of jury rigging in a tight spot to make that one work. Any other suggestions, hate to give $160 bucks for a small fuel pump.

 

[thepumpguysc]

ANY pump will work as long as its less than 10 psi.. all your doing is HELPING the fuel to get from the tank TO the injection pump.. ALOT of folks mount the ele. pump to a plate, THEN mount the plate to the tractor.. or you could use some metal " builders strapping" to mount it anywhere.. you know the flexable metal strips w/ all the holes in it??
MT. Lake has a good handle on the ROTARY lift pumps.. he's been there, done that.. listen to him for the pump selection..
You can change out your hard lines for rubber w/ just a couple of 2.00 fittings. OR use the hard lines to connect to your pump& filter assembly & cut the hard line in half & reconnect w/ rubber lines & hose clamps..
SOMETIMES you do what you have to do to keep running & save acouple of hundred bucks..
Let us know how you make out..

 

[JdubyaM]

ANY pump will work as long as its less than 10 psi.. all your doing is HELPING the fuel to get from the tank TO the injection pump.. ALOT of folks mount the ele. pump to a plate, THEN mount the plate to the tractor.. or you could use some metal " builders strapping" to mount it anywhere.. you know the flexable metal strips w/ all the holes in it??
MT. Lake has a good handle on the ROTARY lift pumps.. he's been there, done that.. listen to him for the pump selection..
You can change out your hard lines for rubber w/ just a couple of 2.00 fittings. OR use the hard lines to connect to your pump& filter assembly & cut the hard line in half & reconnect w/ rubber lines & hose clamps..
SOMETIMES you do what you have to do to keep running & save acouple of hundred bucks..
Let us know how you make out..

Thanks. I will follow MT.Lake's lead. Sounds good to me. I appreciate all the help from both you guys.

 

[JdubyaM]

Here's the pump you want to get, I think its around 6 psi. This is a rotary pump the lasts years instead of months like the pulse type do.
eBay item number:
252116604571

Thanks for your advice. I will go ahead with that cylinder that you suggested.

 

[mountainlake]

Those Carter pumps last a long time, make sure to keep the positive and negative wiring the right way as they will turn backwards. They are marked good. Steve

 

[JdubyaM]

Those Carter pumps last a long time, make sure to keep the positive and negative wiring the right way as they will turn backwards. They are marked good. Steve

Ok Steve. I didn't think about the thing running backwards. Thanks a lot for your advice here.
JdubyaM

 

[JdubyaM]

ANY pump will work as long as its less than 10 psi.. all your doing is HELPING the fuel to get from the tank TO the injection pump.. ALOT of folks mount the ele. pump to a plate, THEN mount the plate to the tractor.. or you could use some metal " builders strapping" to mount it anywhere.. you know the flexable metal strips w/ all the holes in it??
MT. Lake has a good handle on the ROTARY lift pumps.. he's been there, done that.. listen to him for the pump selection..
You can change out your hard lines for rubber w/ just a couple of 2.00 fittings. OR use the hard lines to connect to your pump& filter assembly & cut the hard line in half & reconnect w/ rubber lines & hose clamps..
SOMETIMES you do what you have to do to keep running & save acouple of hundred bucks..
Let us know how you make out..

Hello, I installed the new electric fuel pump and it pumps really well. Getting plenty of fuel to the injectors now. BUT still won't hit or start up. I had the starter rebuild so it would turn faster and a I bought a new heavy duty battery Group 31. But still won't fire up. It is smoking out the tail pipe when I spin the starter. Is there anything I can do to improve the compression so that I can get it started? Anything I can pour into the cylinders to maybe temporarily get compression up to get it to start up? It was running good when parked 2 years ago. Thanks!

 

[JdubyaM]

Those Carter pumps last a long time, make sure to keep the positive and negative wiring the right way as they will turn backwards. They are marked good. Steve

Hello, I installed the new electric fuel pump and it pumps really well. Getting plenty of fuel to the injectors now. BUT still won't hit or start up. I had the starter rebuild so it would turn faster and a I bought a new heavy duty battery Group 31. But still won't fire up. It is smoking out the tail pipe when I spin the starter. Is there anything I can do to improve the compression so that I can get it started? Anything I can pour into the cylinders to maybe temporarily get compression up to get it to start up? It was running good when parked 2 years ago. Thanks!

 

[JdubyaM]

I would recommend a compression test, to see what the compression is. Its good to know how it compares to factory specs. Once you get that out of the way, you will know if you have a big bill in the offing. You can take the GP's out to test them, and at the same time, give it a pressure test. Its just a good place to start. other things it could be are bad injectors, or a bad injector pump. others will chime in, who may have more experience, with your model. For reference, give the model of the engine, and any more info, about model, serial # etc...

Hello, I installed the new electric fuel pump and it pumps really well. Getting plenty of fuel to the injectors now. BUT still won't hit or start up. I had the starter rebuild so it would turn faster and a I bought a new heavy duty battery Group 31. But still won't fire up. It is smoking out the tail pipe when I spin the starter. Is there anything I can do to improve the compression so that I can get it started? Anything I can pour into the cylinders to maybe temporarily get compression up to get it to start up? It was running good when parked 2 years ago. Thanks!