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99 Case 570 LXT series 2 three point hitch repair

hammertime

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2014
Messages
123
Location
Rio Verde Arizona
so my skip loader has a serious problem where the hitch meets the frame IMG_0065.jpg

I've priced out all the parts necessary to replace both hitch points on coleman equipment supply and it's about $200 a side for all the parts for a total rebuild
I figured if i do one side i might as well do the other as well
Could anyone give me any pointers or words of wisdom on this fix. seems pretty straight forward except the bolt is pretty sheared on the broken side.

couple of Q's i have
will i need to take the main tires off to make working around the area easier?
looks like i need to weld the new ball joint on to the arms..this seems like a specialty welding job? any advice?


thanks for any help!
Peter
 

sheepfoot

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2008
Messages
1,259
Location
wilmington nc
Unless it's beat out the main frame holes and needing a build up and bore I would back it up on some good blocks/planking to give a extra foot of clearance under it. Remove the pins and lift arms, check the bore with your new pins and depending on the equipment and welding skills you have, weld it up your self or carry the arms to a welding shop and have them weld the swivel connects on. I would replace the ends that attach to the box blade pins also if they have heavy wear also. The loose movement is like a sledge hammer hitting over and over again on the new ball swivels if you don't correct the other end also. Just remember if you weld in the wrong place they will not swivel any more. I think they are two different sizes also, the tractor end maybe 1" and the blade end 1 1/16 or 1 1/8 so tell the welder also if you sub it out.
 

hammertime

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2014
Messages
123
Location
Rio Verde Arizona
thank you for the info. i will take your advice and replace the swivel connects at the box blade as well. your right about the sledgehammer force. kills me when i have to use it and hear it bang around. i gotta get it fixed!
 

hammertime

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2014
Messages
123
Location
Rio Verde Arizona
i'm ready to disconnect my gannon to fix my poor hitch
in order to disconnect hydro's do i turn the knob on the control unit? (circled red in my pic)
if so, i cannot get it to turn for the life of me..any suggestions? i don't want to do anything without asking first
thank you so much
Picture 10.jpg
 

Posm

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2014
Messages
7
Location
Alabama
Occupation
Hay and forage equipment.
The first thing I did on my 2000 570LXT was ball joints on the lower arms. Installed the bolts multiple times and then used a hydraulic jack to push the pins out. I sit have to take off on if the wheels to get at the pin. The welder machinist that I had weld my ends als made me new pins for about $20. You can purchase the ball ends at a farm supply store fairly reasonable. The lower ones are 1" and the upper ones are cat 2 ( 1 1/8 I think). He used some 1inch stock and taped the ends for the worn pins.

I think the valve is the flow regulator for the up and down valve, but I am not sure about that. Mine is stuck as well. I put quick disconnects to facilitate changing between a 7 way blade and a box.

Current project is king pins, bushings, and seals. Next will be pins and bushings on the loader.
 

hammertime

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2014
Messages
123
Location
Rio Verde Arizona
hey thanks Posm for the info on your deal. sounds like your having fun buying stuff like me. i still have not pulled the pins yet. removed the gannon yesterday. those mounts where the arms meet the frame on my one side are dented and deformed from it sliding over so much. I looked up in the parts catalog with no luck. i'm guessing it's part of the frame. i'm scratching my head a bit. i could us an oversize piece and slide over it, or i'm guessing cut it and re-weld a new piece?

where you guys find blades for these gannons? mine are tore up. sticker says plain jane case 440 like everyone else.

Picture 16.jpg
 

Posm

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2014
Messages
7
Location
Alabama
Occupation
Hay and forage equipment.
Your looks almost identical to mine. I think you are talking about the bushings/mounts that keep the ball centered. Mine were pretty banged-up from abuse as well. When I put the new ends on, mine tightened up pretty well. I would not worry about a little play.

I do not have a Gannon. I have bought all of my cutting edges from the local Cat dealer. I looked inline, but the shipping made them more expensive. You also might try the Case industrial dealer. I have been buying parts from the Case Ag dealer as well. They use the same part numbers as the industrial and have any part that has dual usage. I find them to have 75% of all parts I have needed. I have ordered some Carraro parts from Joseph Industries.
 
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