955K leaking cylinders

[tctractors]

There is no wear fibre fitted into the head of 955K/L cylinders the hoist rod nuts are pulled down to 2'000 LBS FT, the bucket tilt cylinders are slightly different to the hoist cylinders, as the piston is fitted to a taper, so after the nut is removed the piston should need pressing off the rod, the nut torque on these cylinders is 1'200 LBS FT, the important thing is always fit the piston onto a non tapered rod with the fibre end close to the nut.

 

[wagspe208]

2000#! on the hoist cyls? YIKES! My little ass ain't getting that done with a 4x multiplier.
What size is the nut? Any idea?
OK, no hill for a climber. I keep telling myself that.
I replaced bushings, rod ends, clevis pins, etc on the throttle linkage and shift linkage this weekend. Man it is sweet. Probably much better than new. I am a machinist, so all tight and precision. (I know... once it gets all dirty it wil go to hell). Oillite bushings, rod ends with grease zerks. Man it is sweet! Oh, made new pins for the worn throttle pivot and shift pivot. Chrome rod pivots. (I must have to much time on my hands)
Wags

Oh, how much of a pita is it to get the hoist cylinders out? Looks like 6 or 8 bolts, screw in 2 bolts to pry out the pin.
A buddy can do the cyls, I am sure of it. He builds forklift cyls and attachments.
What does one weigh? My little tractor is good for about 700#.

Thanks again.
Wags

 

[d9gdon]

Wags,

You don't have to pull the cylinders off the tractor. Just unbolt the 4 bolts off the head and pull the rods out of the bore end of the cylinder leaving them on the tractor. Then you can take the rods to a clean area and put new seals on the pistons. A good way to undo the big nut on the end of the rod is to put the rod end in the tongue of a drawbar and pin it. Then you can get rough with it. It beats a vise flopping around.

The rods along with the pistons on them probably weigh 80 pounds or so. I'd say the nut is probably 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inch.

That's how I did my 941B anyway. They were the first ones I rebuilt and they're so simple to do.



The bolts I'm talking about are #17 in the drawing.

 

[tctractors]

To remove the hoist cylinder rods the best way is to crib up a chunk of channel or RSJ and bits of timber to pack out the shape of the bonnet / hard nose so the loader frame is supported on both sides resting on the front bonnet area, you will soon locate the strongest spot, the rod eye pin is threaded to be pulled out with a hollow ram, I think the thread is 1"1/4 A.N.F. or 1"1/2 A.N.F. these pins usualy will hit out, remove the 4 head bolts plus the 4 bolts on the head pipe, then pull out the rod with a pull lift hooked onto the loader frame, the rod nut is ether 2"3/8 or 2"1/2, and they tend to be on firm, to refit the rod put the hoist lever into float position untill the head is located.

 

[tctractors]

Just a thought, look at Using a bit of Muscle in the shop talk slot, as I am stripping a loader frame out of a 951 shovel also doing a rod seal job on 1, this might help with the cribbing thing also.

 

[wagspe208]

I was wanting to remove the WHOLE cylinder. I know that is not the easiest way or smartest way. I was going to remove, steam wash, reseal, and paint the cylinders. I know this is like bolting a new set of **** on an old whore. HAHA But if you are going to... might as well make it nice. I may defer to common sense and just do them in the machine. I hope I do.
Wags

wow t*i*t*s was blocked???

 

[tctractors]

The bottom pin location often makes my eyes water when I go to remove the complete cylinder, I have the tooling for this task but those lower pins can be a fair pig to set free, when I used to get plenty of CAT shovels to repair/rebuild, if the track frames came off the bottom pins were pulled and replaced, some of them though had to be cut out, best of luck, Oh on your tip cylinders was the piston a taper fit on the rod?

 

[JGS Parts]

mate i know this might sound a bit stupid but make sure when you have the rod out of it that you dont scratch it or dint it also make sure it is really clean where you are doing the seals seen a few wallies before dint the rod before. and yeah seems liek you are going to need the right tooling to get them lower pins out mate either that or a whole lot of mussel.

 

[wagspe208]

Well, you guys have convinced me...screw taking the cyls off. I will do them in the loader. I looked at my torque mulitplier...it is rated to 4000# so I am ok there. It will take 1000# input. I just need a longer breaker bar (pipe).
Thanks for making me see the light.
The pistons on the tilt cylinders were a taper fit to the rods.
Weekend proect!
Wags

 

[didjit]

This thread is a great find for me! I'm just about to try and tackle this job myself. On a 955K no less. I was totally wondering if I could do them on the machine or not, looks like that's definitely the way to go. If it crosses your mind, some pics of the lift cylinder rebuild would be amazing.

 

[wagspe208]

This thread is a great find for me! I'm just about to try and tackle this job myself. On a 955K no less. I was totally wondering if I could do them on the machine or not, looks like that's definitely the way to go. If it crosses your mind, some pics of the lift cylinder rebuild would be amazing.

I have all the parts riding around in my service van. It is balls hot this weekend. How soon are you thinking of doing this project?
Wags

 

[didjit]

I'm not in a big hurry, but I want to get on it. Knowing someone else is doing it at the same time is good for me. I've wrenched on hot rods and farm tractors a lot in the past, but I recently got a 955 (did you notice that was my first post after lurking for like 2 years?) and it runs great, but I don't want to use it until I get these seals redone. I need some inspiration here

 

[4slice]

Didjit, can you take pics of the overhaul and post them? It would be great to see the step-by-step process.

 

[wagspe208]

and pins for these as the pins were worn and bushings also loose. I figured do it once and it will outlast meOK, I am CERETAINLY no expert, which is probably more helpful than someone who does it all the time.
So, here is what I discovered from doing my tilt cylinders:
1) Those big ass nuts on the rod are TIGHT! I had a torque multiplier, had cylinders chained down, etc and they were tight... UNTIL I applied some heat. The one popped off without heat. The second would not budge until I heated it just till the locking nylon was melting somewhat. Bang, right off.
2) It is a PITA to "stretch" the seal itself over the piston. I got some water damn hot, put the seal in it, then much easier.
3) It is not rocket science. Far from it.
4) It is important to keep everything clean.
5) After taking the 4 bolts off the "head", it is still tough to pull the rod/ piston assembly out of the cylinder. I hooked a truck and tractor to the first ones. I used a come-a-long for the second.
6) You need a big work area with ways to hold stuff. I worked on a flat bed trailer which enabled me to chain stuff to hold it. Many guys suggest putting the rod eye on a tractor draw bar to tighten/ loosen nut.
7) A LONG pipe/ extension on your breaker bar is important. Some locals I talk to use a 10' pipe, then just tighten as much as they can. Not to technical. I am a torque guy personally... hence the multiplier.
8) IF you don't want to go through the expense or borrow a multiplier and torque wrench... put a chisel mark on the nut and rod end. Then, just tighten up nut to the same location. Do not damage the threads, just line them up. Make sense?
I will post some pics as I fumble through the process.
Again, I am so far from an expert it isn't funny. I am a mechanic that works on industrial hyd. and electric equipment, though, so not an idiot. (some would argue this) HA
Wags

OH, when I did the tilt cylinders (and also these) I replaced bushings in the cylinder and rod end. They were pretty loose. I replaced one pin, the other was in great shape. I ordered bushings.

 

[didjit]

Right on! I guess after looking through the book, those big ass nuts are the ones that have me scratching my head. I was thinking if i can get a 4' pipe wrench locked onto them, I could move the handle with the FEL on my tractor. Does that sound like it would work or can you hear dueling banjo's playing at the thought of it Certainly dont wanna bend anything. Good call on the chisel mark. That makes total sense to me. Did you repack the cylinders or just replace the seals? Old timer who is always telling me all the things I need to do tells me to get the repacking too.

I'll totally take pics. I need to get my seals ordered and I'm thinking about making a "stand" for the bucket out of cross ties. Then I'll get on with it.

Thanks for all the info. This is good stuff! I'm glad you went first

 

[wagspe208]

Replace the packing glands and seals both. You have to take the piston of the rod to replace the seals. No reason not to replace the glands or whatever they are called. A kit is so cheap it is unbelievable. Like 40 to 75 bucks.
I was going to try the pipe wrench and FEL trick too, BUT you cannot get a pipe wrench on the nuts (scratch that... not on the tilt cyl nuts... I have not taken the lift cyls apart). The tilt cyl nuts are recessed somewhat and a socket is the only way to get a hold of them. So, IF the lift cyls are the same, pipe wrench won't work. I will look at a parts diagram and see if it look similar.
Wags

 

[wagspe208]

Oh, for seals I ordered mine from American Crane and Tractor... maybe. Kits are aftermarket and cheap. If I was using this daily I might buy cat replacements. I won't put 50 hours a year on this piece. My tilt cyls are leak free... even with some minor scarring on the rod.
I think I had less then 200 in my tilt cyls with bushings, pin, seals, etc. I have around 300 to 350 in lift cl parts with 2 pins, bushings, seals, etc.
Wags

 

[didjit]

Oh, for seals I ordered mine from American Crane and Tractor... maybe. Kits are aftermarket and cheap. If I was using this daily I might buy cat replacements. I won't put 50 hours a year on this piece. My tilt cyls are leak free... even with some minor scarring on the rod.
I think I had less then 200 in my tilt cyls with bushings, pin, seals, etc. I have around 300 to 350 in lift cl parts with 2 pins, bushings, seals, etc.
Wags

nice. i called the cat service place here in my area and i got quoted at $4800 to redo the seals. That's what made me think this is gonna be a DIY affair. That's $300 more then I payed for the machine! Gonna order the seals and do the tilt cylinders first. I spent an hour or so looking at it yesterday and think I have my head around it.

 

[wagspe208]

While mine were off I bought some "rustshield" brand paint, (cat yellow)(holds up great, sticks to anything), pressure washed them, rebuilt them and painted them. They look sweet and don't leak.
Wags

 

[didjit]

I pulled my tilt cylinders today. the o-ring at the base of the piston looks all chewed up, and the wiper seal is in horrible shape. Here's something that's got me scratching my head tho...



it looks like the big seal has a gnarly crack in it, but the other rod has the same deal at exactly the same angle (yes... i put a speed square on it). This isn't right is it?

i tried to pull them out with a really wimpy comealong, and no dice, needed to use the tractor.

The other seals on the piston look good but they have some streaking in them that i would imagine would cause leaks too.

I've been taking pictures of every step and will post if/when i can declare victory.