580l trans questions.

[Richardg]

I have been searching treads and did not find much on what I am dealing with.
I have a 580L that will not move in forward or reverse. The operator said it just stopped.
So far I have checked all the relays and the switch for the forward and reverse and all seems well.

I would like to test the clutch disconnect switches before I assume there is any trouble with the internals of the trans. It has fluid and does not smell burnt or look discolored.
I would appreciated any advice on testing the switches and wires or a diagram of how to trace the switches to the trans.

We bought this tractor to do some work on our property. We are almost done and I am basically a weekend mechanic so any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Richard

 

[trevor b]

will it move when it's cold ? trevor b

 

[Richardg]

No it sat for 2 days before I could get to it and it will not do anything forward or backwards.
I had the inspection cover off the floor and was watching the drive shaft. It didn't even try to turn.
That is the main reason why I want to test the disconnect. It is like the transmission is not even connected to the engine.

 

[trevor b]

silly question -is the gearshift in neutral trevor b

 

[Mjrdude1]

I am not familiar with the 580L, but, one thing that does get overlooked sometimes on electric shift machines is the park brake lever if it has one.
If it raises up just a bit the switch will interupt the circuit for the shifter. Some of them are located where they can be kicked or bumped.
Just a thought, and prolly not much of one. lol

 

[Richardg]

Trevor, yes I tried in all gears... the linkage seems to be working correctly.

MJ, I will look for a switch on the emergency brake. Thanks

 

[Richardg]

Trevor, yes I tried in all gears... the linkage seems to be working correctly.

I meant no it is not in neutral, lol

 

[alrman]

Welcome to HEF Richardg!
Assuming you have a shuttleshift (FNR lever & 4sp manual) you need to figure if problem is electrical, hydraulic or mechanical.
Is the back up alarm still connected? If it is it will sound if reverse is engaged & electrics are OK. If not get someone to assist, & with ign on, cycle the FNR lever back & forth & check to see if the solonoids on top of the transmission are clicking. If they are electrics are OK.
If not, check all fuses/relays etc & read this thread - https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?25852-Case-570lxt-shuttle-problems
I have also seen the FNR levers fail (they are switches) - but not a common problem

If the solonoids are clicking, you need to check the control valve modulator, see this thread -
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?26125-570lxt-transmission-fluid

That should keep you busy for a while!

 

[Richardg]

Thanks alrman,

I don't know why I didn't run across some of these posts in my search.
Anyway. I have been through all the relays. They all cycle when shifting the switch from forward to reverse. Doesn't mean they are all working) I tested the fwd/rv switch for power and it is receiving and sending 12v. I just started figuring out that the solenoid that controls the valve body was on top the trans. I did not check it for voltage, however I remember hearing it click and moved on. I will try some more testing this weekend.

I might as drop the trans pan? I didn't crawl under it... does it have a pan? lol

 

[RHINOS TRANNYS]

I would say that alrman hit the nail on the head. We used to be a Case dealer and I replaced a lot of those snap rings. Seams like when it gets cold out they break.

 

[Richardg]

The solenoids seem to be working fine. I pulled the cap on the front of the valve body and the clip was in place. I pushed on the plunger with my finger and it stopped after an inch or so. The back one seems to be in place however I am reluctant to pull the plate on the back. Bc I can't see it well. Any advice?

 

[alrman]

The back one seems to be in place however I am reluctant to pull the plate on the back. Bc I can't see it well. Any advice?

You need to be 100% sure the circlips are OK. Did you remove the valve from the transmission to inspect?

 

[Richardg]

I did not remove the whole valve body. Just the cap for the front circlip. It was in place. (see blue circle)

I guess I can try to remove the whole valve body. I want to try to inspect the strainer on the bottom RHS of the trans first to see if it is plugged.

Just to add to the confusion I have found that the alternator is not charging. Pulled it and had it tested and it is ok. The switched 12v power is not getting to the alternator to tell it to start charging.
I checked all the fuses and they are all ok. (left the battery hooked up to jumper cables for a while and tried to shift it to rule out the possibility that the battery did not have enough juice to engage the solenoids and that is not the case. It still did not want to move. My time got cut short b/c I was called into work.

The most aggravating part is I can't get back on it tomorrow...

Hopefully I can fid some time Sunday to work on it. If my boss doesn't call me back into work.

Thanks again

 

[Richardg]

I pulled the valve body, It all seemed to be ok, the solenoid is working and both the circlips are in place.
I also pulled the screen and inspected it. I has some trash close to the inspection plate but it was nowhere near being plugged up.

Does this trans have a pump up front by the convertor like a regular transmission that goes in a car? or does it run off hydraulic pump?
I think this thing is not moving fluid. I pulled the dipstick to check the level after I started it and level did not drop...
Is there any way to check to see if the pump is doing something?
Or does anybody have any other ideas?

The pic of my drain pan showing the stuff that was in the bottom of the oil. Is that enough to worry about?

 

[RHINOS TRANNYS]

Then I would disconnect the clutch cutout solinoid, and if it works then go after the switches in the handles.

 

[alrman]

Sorry it wasn't an easy fix for you, there's always something new to go wrong.....
Yes there is a transmission charge pump, a convertor, & flexplate (could be broken) - any one of these could be a problem too.
Pressure testing will tell you something, if there is any, a special adapter is required for a flow test of the pump.

PM sent

 

[Richardg]

Then I would disconnect the clutch cutout solinoid, and if it works then go after the switches in the handles.

I could not find any other solenoids on the trans other than what is on the valve body, where is it?
I tested the switches with the key on engine off and I could hear what I thought was the solenoids on the valve body clicking

 

[Richardg]

Sorry it wasn't an easy fix for you, there's always something new to go wrong.....
Yes there is a transmission charge pump, a convertor, & flexplate (could be broken) - any one of these could be a problem too.
Pressure testing will tell you something, if there is any, a special adapter is required for a flow test of pump

Thanks. I did crawl under it while it was running and look through the hole below the torque converter and it is spinning.

 

[alrman]

I could not find any other solenoids on the trans other than what is on the valve body, where is it?
I tested the switches with the key on engine off and I could hear what I thought was the solenoids on the valve body clicking

There is no cut-out solonoid, as such, on those transmissions. The de-clutch works by simply deactivating power to the the fwd/rev solonoids. So if they are both clicking when FNR lever is moved, the de-clutch should not be the problem.

 

[Richardg]

There is no cut-out solonoid, as such, on those transmissions. The de-clutch works by simply deactivating power to the the fwd/rev solonoids. So if they are both clicking when FNR lever is moved, the de-clutch should not be the problem.

That was the assumption I made when I heard the f/r solenoid clicking. But you know that they say about assumptions...