580C Stanadyne timing

[DirtyHoe]

Hello,
I've read every thread I could find on timing the fuel injector on a 580C. But after reading I think I'm more confused because there are some machines at 8 degrees and others at 0 degrees timing on the flywheel.
Here is my confusion:
The valve cover gasket sticker says to time it at 0 degrees along with the service manual. I checked it and the timing is at 8 degrees so is it correct or wrong? It starts right up and seems to run OK. It does smoke a little and the muffler seems to always be somewhat wet. I can't tell if it's oil or something else. The coolant looks fine.
Is my pump the original or a replacement? It's a Stanadyne DBO-3205
Please see attached pictures.

On another note, I adjusted my valves and they were all considerably off around .025 to .037 instead of .012 for intake and .014 for exhaust. Did the motor get damaged from being so out of specs?

I haven't used it much because I have rebuilding most of the machine since I have owned it. Wish I could have afforded a better machine...

Thanks,
Steve

 

[thepumpguysc]

Its an updated replacement pump.. some older pumps set at 0.. some set at 8*.. follow the valve cover sticker.. & reset the valves..

 

[Tinkerer]

Hello,
=

On another note, I adjusted my valves and they were all considerably off around .025 to .037 instead of .012 for intake and .014 for exhaust. Did the motor get damaged from being so out of specs?

I haven't used it much because I have rebuilding most of the machine since I have owned it. Wish I could have afforded a better machine...
Thanks,
Steve

No harm was done due loose valves. Too tight ,then yes that is not good. Did you check the torque on the bolts that hold the rocker arm shafts to the head ?

 

[DirtyHoe]

Thepumpguysc: I'm trying to get a better understanding on how this stuff works. If I have an updated pump why would I set to the older pump setting of 0? Did you base my setting on my pump model? This is the confusion I had reading older posts. If I have a bunch of these machines in front of me with different pumps how do you figure it out?

Tinkerer: No I didn't check the torque. Do I loosen them first? What is the torque value?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Tinkerer]

Everything you need to know about your machine can be downloaded here ---->
http://www.minnpar.com/manuals5.asp...S PARTS MANUALS&SSSFName=CASE 580E SE SUPER E

 

[DirtyHoe]

Thanks for the link. Unless I missed it there was no discussion on why some pumps are at 0 degrees and others at 8. Any guesses as how it is determined?

Steve

 

[thepumpguysc]

The pumps were updated by changing the advance mechanism pistons, springs and end plugs for easier starting & stamped on the name plate of the pump.

 

[DirtyHoe]

Not sure how to proceed on resetting the pump. Is there 8 degrees of rotation available on the pump or do I have to do something else to put it back on zero?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[thepumpguysc]

LEAVE IT AT 8*.. if you start moving gears it'll never start..
especially if you had taken it off at 8 & she ran good.. if you move it to 0, your retarding the timing 8*'s & she'll never start & if she does, it'll white smoke BAD..

 

[DirtyHoe]

Pumpguy I'll leave it at 8 degrees. But on your first post you told me to follow the sticker which says set it to 0 degrees.
Steve

 

[RDC_580C]

Being a close to 4 decade old machine, unless you know what all was done to it all of those years, it's hard to tell how many times that IP could have been messed with or swapped out.

If it was running fine and set at 8, then just put it back that way and record it somewhere for the next poor guy that has to try and figure it out.

Also, once you get it up to running temp, it's best to recheck the valve clearances again and adjust if necessary.

 

[franklin2]

If I could hijack this thread, I have a 480c backhoe(late 70's I think). The injection pump has been rebuilt at some time before, it's a different color and the previous owner told me he had it worked on.

This thing starts right up and runs great. I hesitate to say anything. But what I am concerned about is all the blue smoke from the exhaust pipe. It doesn't use any oil, and I expect some smoke when the engine is cold. The smoke does improve after it really warms up good, but it still has a small steady stream of blue smoke coming out of the pipe. When you dead head a cylinder or really get the hoe hung up and load the engine down, it really smokes then, even if it is warmed up.

Is there a slight tweak to the pump that could be done to lessen the smoke? Or possibly the injectors are not spraying like they should? What is the most common cause of this? The engine runs smooth with no loping or miss. I need to leave it alone I guess but I am curious.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Valve guides?? they'll leak oil thru them & it gets in the combustion chamber & will blue smoke..
it doesn't affect the performance but its a nuisance..
Does it burn your eyes??

 

[RDC_580C]

Second it burning oil from somewhere, if it's really blue smoke you are seeing. It doesn't take much, so it could be a really slow leak and not noticeable for awhile on the dipstick. Unburnt diesel will usually get you smoke that is White (when cold) then Gray or Black smoke when hot.

 

[Tinkerer]

I suggest that you should remove the sticker that is on the valve cover. Or modify the 0 to an 8.

 

[franklin2]

Thanks for the replies. It can cause my throat to get a little raw if the wind is blowing the right direction. I guess I am going to live with it.

 

[Tinkerer]

franklin ;
That is not good if you want to live a long life.
Remove the oil fill cap while the engine is warm and running. Look for blow-by gases coming out.
Coolant level staying full ?

 

[franklin2]

Coolant level is good, I just checked the oil level again today, it's on the full mark still. It has a breather pipe that comes out of the valve cover and drops over the side of the engine, I have never noticed smoke coming out of it but I will need to look a little closer at it.
I guess a diesel has some vacuum to it, otherwise it would not pull air into the engine. But it should not have near the vacuum a gasoline engine would have with the throttle blades closed. That's when they really suck oil past the guides.

I have been running it alot lately, doing a French drain project around my house.

 

[rwoody]

bump that timing up 2-3 degrees and see what goes on

in the military we always scribed a mark on timing cover and pump and moved the pump 1/16 to one way or there to make them better

 

[thepumpguysc]

scribe a line on the pump mounting flange & one on the block..
Rotate the pump towards the outside of the tractor about a dimes width & tighten back up.. & see what that does.. DO NOT run the tractor w/ the pump loose.!!