4M40 engine rebuild kit

[shea1980]

Hi guys,i am looking to buy a 4M40 engine rebuild kit for my sumitomo sh 60-2(cat 307b has the same engine)i was just wondering does anyone know where the best place i could buy the kit including piston liners?I have seen them on ebay but i am wary of what the quality would be.Also does anyone know if the pistons in the 4M40(non turbo)have oil gallaries?Any info would be great.Oh here is the link to the rebuild kit on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-...TOR-/270594055093?vxp=mtr&hash=item3f00a99bb5

 

[urilabob]

Hi; I know this is to late for you, shea1980, hope it all worked out. In case anyone else comes here - we (well really my mate, who is an expert mechanic) had to rebuild a cat 307b 4M40 due to a broken timing chain (by the look of it, the guide broke first - from what I've read of 4M40 chain failures in vehicles, the main warning sign is if you need to adjust the timing - it can mean the guide is severely worn). From memory, the 4M40 was used in the pajero, triton and delica, I think the triton engine was closest in terms of connection placement; anyway, we used standard Mitsu parts (head, valves, piston, balance shafts etc.) and it is all working well. The old timing chain cover was a bit worn, but we re-used it because there was still a fair bit of metal in it (we were more doubtful whether a Mitsu timing cover was a match, and through cat it would have had to come from the US to Oz, so either $$$ or a long wait). When we got the engine out, the hydraulic pump connector bushes were completely dead, so those got replaced too. Anyway, it all worked well and the engine is now run-in and very smooth.

 

[chosenone]

Hello,
my first time at this. I've got an old SH60 Sumitomo with the Mitsi 4M40 lump in it. Two years ago some kind soul put at least 1kg of sugar in the rocker box and this got pumped around every bit of the engine which siezed up after a few minutes. I rebuilt it and it's worked ok 'till lately but recently started to vibrate at certain revs and last week seemed to get worse, really shakey. Could it be the timing chain is slipping ? I don't use this machine more than a few hours a week but I didn't want the valves kissin the pistons etc. Is there any way to diagnose this or is there any other obvious cause I'm missin please ? Any help VERY welcome
Thanks (it still runs btw)

 

[Delmer]

If your timing chain is SLIPPING you'd have bigger issues than vibrations!!!

Urilabob mentioned the timing being off, that would be retarded/late timing and the symptoms that go with it.

I'd look at the more likely causes of vibration, is it a miss? loose components on the engine? fan drive? hydraulic drive coupler?

 

[chosenone]

If your timing chain is SLIPPING you'd have bigger issues than vibrations!!!

Urilabob mentioned the timing being off, that would be retarded/late timing and the symptoms that go with it.

I'd look at the more likely causes of vibration, is it a miss? loose components on the engine? fan drive? hydraulic drive coupler?

Thanks for that,
I've only just found your post on this. (is there a guide anywhere on the best way to use this site, as in navigation of ?) Several questions I'd like to ask now. Do these engines ever jump a tooth on the valve timing sprocket and how many teeth before kissin valves and pistons and what symptoms ? The balance shafts are gear driven so I'n guessing their timing can't 'jump' ? Hydraulic coupling I could check by rocking the flywheel back and forth I think. I did wonder if there was a restriction in the oil supply to the hyd pump, or maybe a blocked strainer if there is one. The slave controls/levers on this machine have always felt 'heavy' compared to other machines I've driven, is this symptomatic of anything, there seems to be a separate hyd pump for this I think and and can the controls be made to feel 'lighter' ? The engine actually sounds good but it seems to be working harder than it should be in a 'no load' state with the safety lever in the safe position ? Any clues with this is really appreciated and thank you for your help.

 

[chosenone]

Thanks for that,
I've only just found your post on this. (is there a guide anywhere on the best way to use this site, as in navigation of ?) Several questions I'd like to ask now. Do these engines ever jump a tooth on the valve timing sprocket and how many teeth before kissin valves and pistons and what symptoms ? The balance shafts are gear driven so I'n guessing their timing can't 'jump' ? Hydraulic coupling I could check by rocking the flywheel back and forth I think. I did wonder if there was a restriction in the oil supply to the hyd pump, or maybe a blocked strainer if there is one. The slave controls/levers on this machine have always felt 'heavy' compared to other machines I've driven, is this symptomatic of anything, there seems to be a separate hyd pump for this I think and and can the controls be made to feel 'lighter' ? The engine actually sounds good but it seems to be working harder than it should be in a 'no load' state with the safety lever in the safe position ? Any clues with this is really appreciated and thank you for your help.

 

[Delmer]

I don't know of a guide to navigating this site. You can sign up for email notifications if you like.

I don't know this engine specifically, just going by what urilabob said that the timing chain is prone to wear on this engine. If the timing is late it will have less power, though I'd expect it to sound smoother, maybe it will be rougher if it's more than a little late. You can check the injection pump timing, assuming it is chain driven. Otherwise pull the front cover off and see what the chain, tensioner and timing marks look like.

Did you replace the timing chain and tensioner when you rebuilt this two years ago? What did the old ones look like?

 

[chosenone]

Delmer, thanks for your ideas on this. I still haven't had a chance to look at it yet, the injection pump is gear driven incidentally and I didn't replace the timing chain when I rebuilt it though it was a bit 'floppy' if you know what I mean. I did wonder if a blown head gasket between two cylinders could have occurred since it might account for the increase in vibrations as the blown bit increased in size ? There's no gas in the radiator system and this engine has boiled up in the past (blocked radiator) , I might have a look at the Shogun forums. Any more ideas are very welcome and thanks in advance.