Jpcady
Member
So, I had a thread going last fall about my Genie lift, then it got snowy and wintry, and I didn't use the machine much, and didn't want to work on it in the freezing VT winter and never really got to the bottom of my problem. Now that it's spring I need to get it up and running.
Last fall I was having a problem where the machine would start and run, but after a few seconds, would not go to high idle when the function switch was pressed. I thought was the high idle solenoid, then I thought it might be the ecm, or a relay. after a bunch of testing, I replaced the relays in the ground box, I bought a new ECM and installed, and disconnected the leads to the idle solenoid, and didn't solve the problem. At the time, I had a jumper from the key power, to the fuel solenoid because the solenoid wouldn't open. I realized that this was maybe clouding the problem, since the machine was still running.
First off, I took the jumper wire off of the fuel solenoid and hooked it back to the original wiring. I don't remember why I originally jumpered it, but I think that the fuel solenoid wouldn't shut off. Anyway, now that the fuel solenoid is hooked up right, the engine does NOT stay running. The symptoms are:
Engine start, run for 5-10 seconds, dies. The ecm lights go out except for #7.
When I RE-hook my fuel solenoid jumper I notice 2 things-
1) the back studs on the alternator (not the battery wire, but the other terminals) drop to 0v, even though the engine is running. Is this normal? I would think that they would still produce power. Or maybe this is the problem? The alternator is new last year.
2) the controls still work. The function enable switch still works, and the machine booms slowly because the engine is running at low idle.
So, I'm not sure where to look now. Maybe the alternator? Maybe something I'm overlooking?
Help,
Jake
Last fall I was having a problem where the machine would start and run, but after a few seconds, would not go to high idle when the function switch was pressed. I thought was the high idle solenoid, then I thought it might be the ecm, or a relay. after a bunch of testing, I replaced the relays in the ground box, I bought a new ECM and installed, and disconnected the leads to the idle solenoid, and didn't solve the problem. At the time, I had a jumper from the key power, to the fuel solenoid because the solenoid wouldn't open. I realized that this was maybe clouding the problem, since the machine was still running.
First off, I took the jumper wire off of the fuel solenoid and hooked it back to the original wiring. I don't remember why I originally jumpered it, but I think that the fuel solenoid wouldn't shut off. Anyway, now that the fuel solenoid is hooked up right, the engine does NOT stay running. The symptoms are:
Engine start, run for 5-10 seconds, dies. The ecm lights go out except for #7.
When I RE-hook my fuel solenoid jumper I notice 2 things-
1) the back studs on the alternator (not the battery wire, but the other terminals) drop to 0v, even though the engine is running. Is this normal? I would think that they would still produce power. Or maybe this is the problem? The alternator is new last year.
2) the controls still work. The function enable switch still works, and the machine booms slowly because the engine is running at low idle.
So, I'm not sure where to look now. Maybe the alternator? Maybe something I'm overlooking?
Help,
Jake