1155e case

[wreckbuilder]

Hello everybody. New member here been lurking for a while. I really gently bought a ex military 1155e. It's showing 250 hours. I know the military is notorious for changing out hour meters but I believe it is close if not right. Anyhow I have been changing out all fluids. They are all clear but who knows what they are and how long they have been it. The trans and hydraulic fluid is red looks like Dexron.

I have a couple of questions. How much if any metal or aluminum is considered normal for the suction screen in trans? Pic below hopefully.

Ok now on the trans controls. On the forward and reverse sticks. When one is bumped into neutral it loses power to both sides. It will counter rotate but if either side goes in neutral it stops. Just to be clear I am talking about the rear sticks. Thanks so much.[/ATTACH]

 

[wreckbuilder]

Lol. Really gently. Should read recently

 

[Shimmy1]

Perfectly normal to stop when a single direction lever is placed in neutral. The range levers, not so much. Placing a range lever in neutral is called a "gradual turn", one range in low and the other in high is a "power turn". That tractor should have TCH fluid in it, HyTran is acceptable I believe? That filter junk looks pretty ominous to me. Good luck.

 

[wreckbuilder]

Thanks for the reply. Ok if it is normal to stop movement if a single direction lever is in nuetral that ease mind about that.
I have read somewhere that they put red fluid in machines at factory, Something to do with seeing leaks. I wonder if this thing has never been changed and if so this is all just machining and assembly leftover.
Wishful thinking I know

 

[Delmer]

I was kind a thinking the same thing. Maybe a sloppy job of a rebuild? Those pieces look small and regularish compared to something disintigrating, which I'd expect a lot of fine metal and a few big pieces. The real test will be what shows up there and in the filters over time, and/or an oil analysis. What's the little bits of "amber" in there?

 

[wreckbuilder]

The amber colored pieces are real jelly like. The big ball of gunk fells like a ball of tar, Its real soft.

 

[Paul Taylor]

Is it unusual for the torque converter temp gauge to not move when its cold out? I took it out because I thought it wasnt working
and put it in water on the stove and it worked, I ran it last week for a few hours and it never rose that I could tell. Also I replaced the trans oil with TCH when I cleaned the screen.

 

[DMiller]

Aluminum is indication of clutch or possibly pump parts(pump housing) the chromium steel pieces appear to be bearing fragments but could be wrong. Making noise? Shift smooth, brakes functional? As noted possibly remnants of a previous failure finally reaching sumps.

 

[wreckbuilder]

Everything works good. No noises. I guess it is wishful thinking for it to be break in wear. This machine is showing only 250 hours. It has a repair plate on it that has a date of 2001 and around 100 hrs. It would be interesting to talk to someone in the military that is familiar with their repair program.
Any ideas about the red fluids?

 

[DMiller]

The amber stuff is most likely plasticized form a gasket, many manufacturers use instead of physical gaskets, Red fluid could just be the manufacturer's dye stream for ID as to a military fluid. Go by the OEM types listed for the machine and do not expect a red color from other producers. My trans oil was at one time clear, is now purple, still 10W Hyd.

 

[BradleyGA]

I purchased same type from ex military aswell. My fluid were clean and not red dye. I had no psi from get go and now I am having issues with psi dropping after operation 45min. I replaced charging pump first had wear spot on side wall and after replaced it helped but I am having trouble with losing psi and not being able to use left and right individual brake. All other functions are working as normal. Possible other problems you might encounter from my troubleshooting. I replaced and /or cleaned all filters, tch fluid. you can adjust your pressure at the modulator valve. you should be getting 20psi with from idle and in neutral. torque converter temp gauge checked mine aswell and runs about 140 degrees all the time no hotter.
pressure regulator valve on converter housing had wrong size shims installed with springs and also check converter relief valve springs and NO shims. check screen ontop of control valve mine had tear causing any debris to to get in control valve. Your screen at bottom by charging pump should have caught all this but may want to clean and check. look for loose bolts and missing bolts found the used whatever available for some of the linkage pins. Also behind gas petal at floor remove governor so you can get correct HP from cummins motor. The govt set a bolt back there to prevent loader going over medium hp. i have 370hrs on machine. Looks correct with amount of no wear and tear just been sitting to long. still working thru mine.

 

[DMiller]

Seals harden from inactivity, fail to seat or for some components to move when needed, take a set with weighted components just sitting. I have avoided machines sitting for long term as in the end you chase fluid leaks both internal and external until ALL the elastomeric components are changed.