In the market...used excavator

[skiddinlogs51]

Hey Everyone,

I am new here and figured this would be a good forum to join as I leap into the heavy equipment zone....

Quick about me - I was in the logging industry for a few years in my younger years...ran a lot of different equipment. Most scary/fun was a rubber tire skidder. A lot of dozer work as well. Ran a lot of different machines when I was ranching as well...Now that I am retired from DSU peterbilt I help friends run their ranches etc...I have been fortunate enough to purchase 40 acres of my own land with a home...which brings me to this site. My only machinery that I own is a Kubota L2800 with a backhoe attachment and brush hawg...I need something that can do a little more and faster...I need your knowledge on what to buy as I only really have one shot at getting the right one. Your opinions are appreciated.

What I am looking for - I am wanting to purchase a Mini-Medium sized excavator 9K-18K total weight. Hydraulic thumb, blade, lower hours with good undercarriage. I am just not sure what to look for...Brands I have been looking at are either CAT or Komatsu. Currently looking at a Komatsu PC78UU-6, but I have no idea if it is a good one for my needs. I don't like that the pivot point is up high... $40K is about max price point...Is there any models you might recommend? Reliability is a big plus...

What I will use it for - This excavator will be used for clearing blackberries, digging small ponds, replacing culverts, cleaning drainage ditches, building dirt road, moving gravel, moving scrap metal/junk, skidding logs, and clearing small mudslides....this machine won't be used too often, but often enough to warrant buying one and not renting consistently. I am not worried about moving it too much as it will sit at the farm...

Anything I am missing? Really appreciate the knowledge and insight this forum will for sure bring. Thank you all!

 

[skiddinlogs51]

Here is the one I am looking at. Yesterday I learned about gray machines and that I should stay away from.

themhttps://www.haleytractor.com/inventory/2007-komatsu-pc78uu-6-sutherlin-or-97479-10891865i

 

[skiddinlogs51]

Also, what are those kinds of excavators most useful for? Digging out trenches? Thanks!

 

[Allan M]

Hey Skiddinlogs51: I'm one of the least experienced guys on this forum and I'm surprised others haven't reined in just yet to give you input. My suggestion is to rent a machine that is close to your general specification before you buy. That way, you'll get a feel for excavators and the idiosyncrasies of these beasts. With your general experience I'm sure you will operate just about any type of equipment at expert level in no time. In my case, I have very hilly, rocky, oak and manzanita covered terrain. My goal was to cut fire breaks and walking trails on my 18 acres. Most of the land is not accessible-too wooded. So, on the advice of others I rented a Kubota U55-4 (the biggest machine I could find in my area) which is 12.8k pounds, a full cab with AC (it gets hot here in California). I rented this machine twice and put 250 hours on it. The rental company said that they acquired it at 1200 hours and it was a bit heavy for most of their rental customers--so I made a cash offer and bought it at 2,100 hours. The tracks are a bit cut up from demo work but otherwise a great machine for under $40k. I think I could sell it for about that or a bit more. It's a 2016. I haven't used any other excavator. My opinion: This Kubota, like the tractors, seems well built. I have a 4 way dozer blade (a six way blade would be killer for trail making). The weight is fine on my asphalt driveways when I need to traverse these. This is a zero turn radius. I don't need that feature and wouldn't get that feature if I were shopping today--because it makes the cab tighter and general foot controls off-set and cramped (I'm 6'2"). I use this machine usually once every 7 to 10 days--and it makes chores other than road building a dream, e.g., taking down an old out-building, removing unwanted landscape, trenching, etc... It has 11k break force at the bucket curl. Would I get a smaller machine? No, I think this one is the lightest weight (hydraulic power and weight matter) that would serve my road building purpose--especially log handling for cutting. The biggest trees that I'm taking down are Oak at 70ft length and 2.5ft across. Heavy. So, with a lighter machine I might get into trouble. My general research following this site and others is that most name brand machines are likely reliable: Case, Komatsu, Takeuchi, John Deere, Kubota, etc. Stay away from Gray market machines if you can. Know who used the machine and for what purpose (will give you an idea about use and abuse); know enough about the mechanics of these machines to detect wear on drive sprockets, idlers, ram joints, etc... and general engine condition. Bottom line, if you rent a machine you will know quickly if you need something heavier or lighter. Is there a dealer in the area that can help with service if need be? And, like me, you can learn a bunch real fast from the expert operators on this site. Best in your journey, Allan

 

[heymccall]

That one has a sideshift boom. We have 2 of the bigger version, PC128UU-2 and PC228UU-1. We utilize them for digging trench along a curb or building, or digging trench offset in narrow alleys.
They're not bad machines, but many parts are unique to them and the vertical boom pins get sloppy fast, when abused or neglected.

I say stay away from the offset boom styles if possible.

I had a PC95-2 and never could get it to stop running HOT.

In Cat, maybe a 306, 307, or 307.5. Much easier to get parts and quite the knowledge base on here.

 

[skiddinlogs51]

Hi Allan!

Thank you for your input! It could be that I am new that not a lot have chimed in, which I understand. The price of that Kubota sounds unreal! I haven't seen anything remotely in that price that new...maybe it's an Oregon thing...Seems Covid has really escalated prices.

There is a CAT rental company 20 miles south of me that I have gone back and forth on renting...They want a lot per day, though. Something like $450/Day and can't go over a certain amount of hours etc.

Going to go look at that Komatsu tomorrow that I posted earlier to get a feel for it and maybe some others. Dealer said they buy them at auction and change all fluids besides coolant...I need to get more familiar of what to look for...leaks...final drive...etc. I would prefer a 4 or 6 way blade, but it seems the are only on newer Kubotas out of my price range...I can always back blade etc.

The property I own is in a big draw for the most part. 10 acres bottom land and the rest forested hillside...once I am proficient enough I want to cut rode through the hillside.

Thanks again!

 

[skiddinlogs51]

They're not bad machines, but many parts are unique to them and the vertical boom pins get sloppy fast, when abused or neglected.

I say stay away from the offset boom styles if possible. .

Thank you for the advise! I have heard those pins/bushings need to be replaced often etc. Was one of my main concerns. I need to be patient in my search.

Thank you!

 

[Allan M]

You might find a machine closer to your low end, 9k pounds, can perform most of your tasks okay. I don't think my 12.8k pound machine would handle "forest" but can handle everything else on your list. In Oregon I'm thinking you have big Redwood and Pine trees. So, maybe when you cut your mountain roads you rent a much larger machine if possible or pay to have it done. In my case, if I got into bigger trees I would chain saw these down and then dig out the stumps that needed removal--which could be a chore if these were really big trees.

 

[skiddinlogs51]

You might find a machine closer to your low end, 9k pounds, can perform most of your tasks okay. I don't think my 12.8k pound machine would handle "forest" but can handle everything else on your list. In Oregon I'm thinking you have big Redwood and Pine trees. So, maybe when you cut your mountain roads you rent a much larger machine if possible or pay to have it done. In my case, if I got into bigger trees I would chain saw these down and then dig out the stumps that needed removal--which could be a chore if these were really big trees.

Good points. I guess it's more open forest...does have some big trees. I will try to line the road to not have to cut down too many, but there will be some. Road will basically be a 4wd/atv trail...so not needing to be perfect.

I think I should pass on that side boom Komatsu...something is telling me it maybe isn't the right choice...no idea on price either...they want $35K for a 2007 with 4,500 hours. Seems a little steep?

 

[Canuck Digger]

Something along the lines of a Hitachi EX 60, Komatsu PC60 a JD 75C or even the older 7 ton Kobelco's were all good Machines. If you want something newer that is very undervalued that you can usually pick up for a good price is the Yanmar line of excavators like a vio80 or the SV100.

 

[skiddinlogs51]

Something along the lines of a Hitachi EX 60, Komatsu PC60 a JD 75C or even the older 7 ton Kobelco's were all good Machines. If you want something newer that is very undervalued that you can usually pick up for a good price is the Yanmar line of excavators like a vio80 or the SV100.

Thank you! I will look into those. I need a place to start lol.

Not from experience, but I have heard to walk/run away from any Yanmar, JD, and Mitsubishi? I am sure everyone has something to say about each brand...

What would you consider "Newer"? one other thought is what would you consider to be high hours? I have read/heard 8K-10K hours is high mileage...Seems like most machines I see are right around 4K hours. I only use my tractor 150-200 hours a year would be my guess. Thanks again!

 

[skiddinlogs51]

Looks like there is a JD 75D and a 120C, and a 590D (Might be too big) for sale....decent looking.

Also a 2006 kobelco sk80CS-1E for sale and a 2017 CAT 305.5...decisions...

 

[skiddinlogs51]

Also, I assume everyone prefers steel tracks over rubber?

 

[skiddinlogs51]

Also liking the looks of this case CX55B....low hours. 12K # machine

 

[Allan M]

Also, I assume everyone prefers steel tracks over rubber?

I'd read this link: https://allclass.com.au/rubber-vs-steel-track-mini-excavators/ I think rubber tracks are the way to go for your situation if you will cross asphalt driveways/roads or any hard surfaces (pavers, cement, compacted areas). I have a 1/4 mile of asphalt driveway on my property. I stay off it in hot weather but need to occasionally traverse it. If I had steel tracks I think I would tear it up. I don't think the size of the machine matters much with mini excavators because the weight distribution per square inch of track is similar between a 9k pound machine and 18k pound machine--because the heavier machine has a larger track area.

 

[skyking1]

If you don't need a blade you could get a bigger machine. I saw a 120-2 Hitachi that had the slows for under 20k, and that might be an easy fix.

 

[skiddinlogs51]

If you don't need a blade you could get a bigger machine. I saw a 120-2 Hitachi that had the slows for under 20k, and that might be an easy fix.

I would need a blade for sure with what I want to do.

 

[OTG AuGres]

I’m not a professional, but a seasoned amateur so please take my opinion for what it’s worth. It sounds like we have similar needs and uses.

1. I started with a Bobcat e42/angle blade/extendible arm. Now have Bobcat E50/standard arm/fixed blade. Difference in machines is more that would indicate on paper. Although total weight between both are very similar the e50 is substantially more capable. Tracks and undercarriage are substantially heavier on the e50 give it a much more stable platform.
2. Fixed blade on e50 is substantially beefier than angle on e42, plus less maintenance to worry about. This should be a worthy consideration regardless of brand you decide on. The angle was convenient from time to time, but it was also one of my maintenance issues with the e42. I don’t miss it. Machines in this weight class certainly benefit from the stability from a blade.
3. For this size machine and intended use, I prefer rubber tracks. I like the fact that I can drive my machine virtually anywhere without fear of substantial damage. Concrete, workshop, grass, etc. only time I really had concerns was doing demo work in broken concrete. I’m careful when doing woods work…logs and stumps can be issues.
4. Standard length/fixed arm maximizes lift lift capacity of given platform. That is more important to me than reach.

Professional, for hire owners might have different opinions, but the above works for me.

 

[Allan M]

I’m not a professional, but a seasoned amateur so please take my opinion for what it’s worth. It sounds like we have similar needs and uses.

1. I started with a Bobcat e42/angle blade/extendible arm. Now have Bobcat E50/standard arm/fixed blade. Difference in machines is more that would indicate on paper. Although total weight between both are very similar the e50 is substantially more capable. Tracks and undercarriage are substantially heavier on the e50 give it a much more stable platform.
2. Fixed blade on e50 is substantially beefier than angle on e42, plus less maintenance to worry about. This should be a worthy consideration regardless of brand you decide on. The angle was convenient from time to time, but it was also one of my maintenance issues with the e42. I don’t miss it. Machines in this weight class certainly benefit from the stability from a blade.
3. For this size machine and intended use, I prefer rubber tracks. I like the fact that I can drive my machine virtually anywhere without fear of substantial damage. Concrete, workshop, grass, etc. only time I really had concerns was doing demo work in broken concrete. I’m careful when doing woods work…logs and stumps can be issues.
4. Standard length/fixed arm maximizes lift lift capacity of given platform. That is more important to me than reach.

Professional, for hire owners might have different opinions, but the above works for me.

I've also heard very good things about the Bobcat e50, reliability and hydraulic lines are well protected on the inside top of the boom. Stability with a blade on these smaller machines is really key too as OTG AuGres notes.

 

[skyking1]

I would need a blade for sure with what I want to do.

a 120 with a 48" cleanup bucket can move a prodigious amount of dirt, but yes it takes some time to get up to speed. With a thumb you can pull a 7' grade beam too.