Grovecomm
Active Member
Makes sense. I was a electrician/electronics tech for 37 years at the same place (city government) and got real good at what I did. I also loved my work, made the time go by quickly. Thanks OFF.
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The JLG 40F Boom Lift Dilemma
- Thread starter od1
- Start date
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
Saturday was a very good day, the old girl has life again! All electrical systems except the clogged air filter light are functioning normally ( just working in reverse and not even critical). There's still a glitch with the right side drive motor, it spins slower the the left. I'm not sure if it the spooler or because the brake solenoid isn't opening enough or a combo platter. I got the engine oil flushed and changed hope to time it and fine tune the carb today. She has had a little back pressure for two years and blows a little oil out the breather but with luck she'll keep humming until next winter and can get a proper once over. I'll post some pics when I can resize them.
Does anyone know where there's a decent 60 for sale, now that I'm figuring out these things a little bit I would like to have another one like it. That works well for a Restoration Contractor having antique machines.
Does anyone know where there's a decent 60 for sale, now that I'm figuring out these things a little bit I would like to have another one like it. That works well for a Restoration Contractor having antique machines.
OFF
Senior Member
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
Very nice looking machine! I don't remember them looking that good when they were new
Thanks, she not bad for an old gal. Do you know from the serial number what year it is exactly? My manual says 1978 and when ordering parts in the past JLG can't locate the number in their system it's 731766.
OFF
Senior Member
That's an old girl alright. Build date on that machine was 12/21/1976 according to JLG.
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
No doubt Old, does that mean it's really valuable being a Bi-Centennial built rig :usa
Just kidding, didn't work out for my Millenium Harley.
What do you think about my issue with the drive circuit assuming you got it, I never tried the private message feature until then?
If electrical is verified correct and it doesn't activate High Drive where do I look next? Rick
OFF
Senior Member
yes, i got your PM just didn't have a chance to pull out the manual & look at it.
High drive is powered by the last section of your main hyd. pump (the section furthest from the engine).
Follow that hose, look for places you can pressure test. It runs to the high drive solenoid valve, then through a one-way check valve, then the hi drive flow joins the regular flow going to the drive/lift/swing valve bank after going through the high pressure filter. You said your hi pressure filter light was on, maybe it's blocked? Do pressure tests all along that circuit where ever you can. That's the first step. How's the rpm on your engine? Are you on high engine and is it running at 2800 rpm on hi engine? On low engine you won't feel a difference between hi & low drive. You need in the range of 1600 to 2200 psi pressure. Locate that check valve and confirm that it's functioning - take it out and play with it - you'll be able to tell if it's working or not.
Good luck
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
Success, all systems are a go! :drinkup
We figured out why High Drive wouldn't engage, there was a .7 voltage drop across the high drive solenoids (forward & reverse) so we are adding a relay to isolate them and will be good. I got my packing kit for drive motor so only a couple things left to wrap up. We have systems on their it never came with, should be a breeze having it certified.
Thanks to everyone for their input. I also ordered a Manual that covers the Wisconsin VH4D pre 88' so if anyone needs a diagram or anything let me know.
We figured out why High Drive wouldn't engage, there was a .7 voltage drop across the high drive solenoids (forward & reverse) so we are adding a relay to isolate them and will be good. I got my packing kit for drive motor so only a couple things left to wrap up. We have systems on their it never came with, should be a breeze having it certified.
Thanks to everyone for their input. I also ordered a Manual that covers the Wisconsin VH4D pre 88' so if anyone needs a diagram or anything let me know.
Grovecomm
Active Member
Hello All. I need to tow a 70's vintage JLG40F. Ny machine has a tow bar and already has the tie rods disconnected from the steering cylinder. I know I've read things previously in this thread about a hydraulic valve for isolating the drive motors from the drive wheels. I also understand that max towing speed is 10 MPH because of the gears in the drive wheel transmissions. My machine is completely old and dead and I have to tow it about 20 miles on low traffic, country roads. I just bought it and need to get it off the guys property before he sends it to the scrap yard.
Can someone please tell me what I have to do in order to tow this thing without damaging the drive system. I can't find this information in the manual or this thread.
Can someone please tell me what I have to do in order to tow this thing without damaging the drive system. I can't find this information in the manual or this thread.
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
I would double check with OFF but I believe along with isolating the hydraulic drive motors which I believe is the black knob located just to the right of the main electrical panel you have to reverse the caps on the drive hubs. I'm only going from what I've read as I have never towed mine anywhere. I would like a good photo of your tow bar when it is out of the snow so I could make one. I hope that helps, good luck.
Grovecomm
Active Member
RSIGuy. These are some of the pics I already had.
willie59
Administrator
Actually, the black knob selector valve inside the engine compartment is to allow steer cylinder to move while towing, no need to disconnect steering linkage. And yes, the drive hubs should have disconnect caps on them, secured with two 1/4" bolts. Remove the 1/4" bolts, remove the disconnect cap, flip the cap over so the tip points inward. Re-install the 1/4" bolts and tighten them evenly. This allows the tip to push the hub disconnect rod inside the hub. Once the cap bottoms out, hub should be freewheel. Be sure and chock the wheels before doing this.
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
Thanks, those should be sufficient. I had an idea there was something unique with the attachment to the lift but its not really. Good luck with the tow, twenty miles should be interesting.
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
Good to know, I may try a tow someday soon, perhaps from the garage to a job site if it ever turns to spring. :Banghead:Banghead. Thanks for the extra knowledge, I don't know what I would have done without the help from you and OFF during this rebuild.
Grovecomm
Active Member
Thanks very much Willie. That is the first I heard about the disconnect caps. Since this apparently disconnects the wheels from the gearing and hydraulics, am I still limited to 10 MPH? The steering cylinder was disconected from the tie rods by the previous owner so they could move it around on the lot, but the cylinder is extended and in the way for towing, so I still need to retract it. I assume that once I find the bypass control I'll be able to push it in with a bit of effort??? I'm going to post a pic of my engine compartment in hopes you point out the bypass valve for me. Thanks.
Grovecomm
Active Member
Do any of you helpful guys know what this pulley/sheave is for? Along with the slot to the left it looks like maybe some kind of a winch path??? I just bought this old beauty and haven't investigated it yet.
