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Who Makes The Best Demolition Saw Blades ?

Discussion in 'Demolition' started by Tinkerer, Jun 20, 2012.

  1. Tinkerer

    Tinkerer Senior Member

    Joined:
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    4,539
    Location:
    On A Riverbank in IL. USA
    I need to purchase a couple of blades for my Stihl TS420 demolition saw. I never owned a gas powered demolition saw before, so I need some opinions who makes the most reasonably priced blades.
    I will be cutting masonry products that have no wire or rebar. Also metal cutting blades for exposed rebar in broken concrete. I am not really interested in using wet blades.
     
  2. buckfever

    buckfever Senior Member

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    Aug 13, 2010
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    Location:
    southwest pa
    we use grip-rite. We buy ours at a local lumberyard for around 200 and they last a long time.
     
  3. SeaMac

    SeaMac Senior Member

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    Location:
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    I generally use dry-cut diamond wheels for masonry, they may cost more but man do they last and abrasive cut-off wheels for metal which will wither away the more you cut. I have no brand preferences, whatever the supply house or big box has to offer. My guys are hell on blades so it never pays to get them the best just what will suffice and we do an enormous amount of slab and wall cutting for conduit runs.

    When it comes to precision work out comes the ICS chainsaw which is an unbelievable tool but does require water.
     
  4. BlazinSS934

    BlazinSS934 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2012
    Messages:
    125
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    I use Stihl blades on my saws we have 6 saws total 4 Stihl and 2 Partner saws
    We also have a ICS chain saw for cutting ductile iron water main


    Few tips

    Never store the blades near the fuel can. Petroleum vapors break down the adhesive that holds the blades together and they can shatter.

    Have one responsible person mix the fuel/oil mix and try to keep the same size cans on all of your trucks.
    I had a laborer put diesel in a saw because he didn't have two cycle oil and diesel was " slippery" like oil.
    Amazing how that guy kept his job and I got laid off 5 years ago.

    All 3 of my crews carry a 5 gallon diesel can a 2 gallon gasoline can and 1 gallon fuel oil mix
    This way you don't even need to color coordinate or label the cans.

    Use sta-bil in all of your gasoline. The ethanol in the gas causes it to get crappy faster. Use sta bil for ethanol blended fuels.

    Get a blow tip for you air compressor and blow off your saws religiously.

    When you are done for the day fuel it back up and reset all the controls so they are ready to start out of the cabinet, set the throttle lock,choke and decompression button in the ready to start position. So when your helper hands you the saw you just have to pull on the starter rope.

    hope that helps

    Sal
     
  5. Tinkerer

    Tinkerer Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 21, 2009
    Messages:
    4,539
    Location:
    On A Riverbank in IL. USA
    Yes Sal, Your input does help. Along with the input that everyone else contributes. I did not know fuel would deteriorate abrasive blades. Interesting about the wrong fuel mix in the saw and the guy still had a job. I have an interesting story about the wrong fuel mix in a saw.
    I bought my Stihl TS 420 on Ebay. It was listed as a parts saw. No compression. But it looked like a new saw in the photo. I took a chance and used the buy it now option for $350.00. Ups dropped it at my house a few days later. I was quite surprised to see that it was sent in the original like new, Stihl shipping box. It wasn't too hard to see that the saw didn't have maybe 1 (yes one) hour of run time on it. I dismantled the engine and found the piston and cylinder were scored quite badly. It was most likely filled with straight gas for the first time it was ever used. I spent about $160.00 for new parts. It now runs like a new saw. The saw was shipped from a tool rental store in a southern USA state. I would sure like to know how they settled the rent bill for it !