White-GMC 94’ STC 330 N14

[colson04]

Hmm, never seen one of those before. I'll have to look them up

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Hmm, never seen one of those before. I'll have to look them up

Napa Auto Parts has them it's where I seen it, but Amazon is cheaper. I went with the 10' chain.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Shifter on the right is old one, the one on the left came out the Peterbilt. Wanting to get rid of the old one and put in one from Peterbilt as will need to be fabricated to fit and shift right starting with straightening out the first bend. Should I put on the high or low shift tower, and what are cons pros for each?

 

[Truck Shop]

High tower-narrower gate and better leverage for smother shift. Very few come with a low tower anymore.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

High tower-narrower gate and better leverage for smother shift. Very few come with a low tower anymore.

Guess I will find a way to switch the towers out then. Don't like the oddball sideways backwards as$ shifter.

 

[crane operator]

If you pull the pin above the tower, I think you can just switch rods, if that's what you are trying to change.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

If you pull the pin above the tower, I think you can just switch rods, if that's what you are trying to change.

Tried that when it was still in on old transmission, going to have to press it out now I have it out. Though that's what I'm going to do along with straighten the shaft out some. Heat it up till magnet doesn't stick to it bend it as needed.

 

[56wrench]

you may have to buy a new isolator/pin kit. i've never had any luck trying to separate them without destroying the isolator- around here, they are usually seized together

 

[Spud_Monkey]

How much does one of these things weigh?
https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/hvo/d/vancouver-sheep-foot-roller/7227402564.html

 

[DMiller]

A LOT!!

 

[Spud_Monkey]

A LOT!!

Sounds good to me, some moron (weekend warrior city slicker) busted up the road last summer and now we are loosing our road in. So come spring I need to fix it and put back as such and build it up.
Maybe I should bill him for my time.

 

[DMiller]

Set up adequate drainage where it is eroding and should slow to eliminate the road disintegrating.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Set up adequate drainage where it is eroding and should slow to eliminate the road disintegrating.

That's next on the list after the road is restored. Here is what I have to drive over, don’t know where it’s going but know it needs filled in and packed down. That’s one of many.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

you may have to buy a new isolator/pin kit. i've never had any luck trying to separate them without destroying the isolator- around here, they are usually seized together

I have ran out of time and decided to forgo the modification so all is almost back together, one more pinion seal replaced, and put last new u joints back in. Sticking them in the freezer for few hours makes it easier pressing them in with guide bolts on each side.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Welp took the rig out it finally is on the road again, slight problems here to be addressed. Found out why the instrument cluster wasn't lighting up bright when running and headlights on to point of couldn't see to drive at night, someones shoddy wiring I cut out fixed that. Another, has slight vibration when pushing it hard, I suspect new poly engine/transmission mounts are stiff as my .-. ..- -.-. -.- / ... - .. -.-. -.- on Viagra (though never tried it).
Lastly my main one is speedometer is way off, when I changed the seals on the oil slinger on back of transmission with rear main seal the tooth count was same for the rotor, but I did notice the old transmission had a non adjustable speedometer sensor and the one I put in had a adjustable, would putting the adjustable one on work with adjusting and my speedometer in the cab? If so I suspect the further one screwed it out away from the rotor it would pick up less and slow the speedometer down?

 

[DMiller]

Adjustment is only to get the sensor the correct spacing off the rotating element
Different diffs have changed drive line speed so probably shows slower than actual
Most electronic units use Dip Switches to reprogram the head for the signal
Age of machine change in ratio and lack of company OE manual makes it guesswork

May find something on the net if lucky

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Adjustment is only to get the sensor the correct spacing off the rotating element
Different diffs have changed drive line speed so probably shows slower than actual
Most electronic units use Dip Switches to reprogram the head for the signal
Age of machine change in ratio and lack of company OE manual makes it guesswork

May find something on the net if lucky

Feels like I'm going down the same rabbit hole as the last semi cause there is sure no DIP switches on it. I can call Volvo in the morning, I'm sure there is something with the 3 buttons on the cluster itself.

 

[DMiller]

Could be cal in ecm

 

[crane operator]

Could be cal in ecm

I don't think he has a ecm. I think his is a pt pump n14 with no ecm.

Feels like I'm going down the same rabbit hole as the last semi cause there is sure no DIP switches on it. I can call Volvo in the morning, I'm sure there is something with the 3 buttons on the cluster itself.

Those buttons are the "DP" switches that Dmiller is talking about, "I think"

 

[Spud_Monkey]

There is no data in Volvo's system on how to reset the speedometer nor is there any online. I could try pushing buttons and holding them down and see if I can get a menu of sorts and go from there. Though as it stands, back down the rabbit hole I go in ripping the instrument cluster out and replacing it with GPS one.
When I get it up to highways speeds I can drive by RPM's, but trying to drive in the city and not speed isn't happening.