What engine?

[Catdidrun]

Serial numbers match, engine and plate under dash. Am I correct to assume that means the engine is the original D333 ?

 

[Welder Dave]

Ritchie specs. are not always accurate and shouldn't be relied upon. Below is just one example. 11K3919 became a 977L in 1971 not 1978. If that's the engine plate should be original engine.

"Production of 70J, 48J, and 11K ended in 1978; they were replaced by new 977L units."

 

[Nige]

Serial numbers match, engine and plate under dash. Am I correct to assume that means the engine is the original D333 ?

You are indeed. And it's killed two birds with one stone because it's also confirmed the engine is not a transplant, which makes identification of parts much easier.

 

[Cat977]

I deleted the line (Production of 70J, 48J, and 11K ended in 1978; they were replaced by new 977L units) from the list. Thanks for the correction.

 

[Catdidrun]

Any one have a good source for engine rebuild kit for cat D333 and rebuilt head?

 

[Nige]

Try Offroad Equipment. They'll probably be able to quote you genuine Cat & aftermarket.
www.offroadeq.com/

 

[Catdidrun]

Thanks man!

 

[Catdidrun]

Offroad Equipment has excellent prices and availability. I got a new loaded head today and the rebuild kit is on it's way.
Should I be concerned that there would be metal grindings in the oil pump, crank, fuel pump, turbo or anything else? Should the pump screen and oil filter have kept the particles out of these parts?

 

[rmllarue91]

Wash engine first. The most important steps check crank for spun bearings and sizes and measure liner protrusion. Next most important get a good case of brake cleaner. Order / get Plasti gauge for measuring bearing clearance. Step three watch you tube on measuring and engine inspection. Might be a good time to build a sturdy work bench and hang a new light or two if you find yourself in a dark shop / barn.... Oh and keep HEF updated on progress

 

[Mobiltech]

I think you got ahead of yourself a bit. The proper thing to do would be tear it down , assess the damage and then order parts. You don’t know if your engine even has standard bearings so that will mean you got the wrong kit if the cranks been cut.
There’s a good chance the crank is bent , there may be block damage or your block may have other problems in the liner seal area.
From what you’ve told us so far I hope you follow the advice given closely because there is a lot more to a simple rebuild than just putting parts in.

 

[Nige]

Should I be concerned that there would be metal grindings in the oil pump, crank, fuel pump, turbo or anything else? Should the pump screen and oil filter have kept the particles out of these parts?

Should you be concerned.? Absolutely, there will be debris EVERYWHERE and you need to get every last little bit of it out. IMO the first item on your shopping list should’ve been a couple of cases of brake cleaner rather than boxes full of new parts.

The screen on the oil pump suction side is designed to trap “tree branches, dogs, and small children”, so don’t depend on it. Unless there is a GOOD reason why not, the oil pump should be replaced. It’s more than likely trashed anyway - but it protects everything else, so that’s why it should really be replaced.

As Mobiltech said above, the best plan would be to tear everything apart first, and assess the damage. Have block, crank, & camshaft checked, then move on to timing gears, crank damper, etc, etc. My concern at this point is that you are getting ahead of yourself.

 

[Catdidrun]

Thanks for the advice, I'll get it tore down and get professional help with the inspection. I appreciate all of your help, and i will post the progress. Thanks so much.