What engine is this? Olympian genset.

[MarshallPowerGen]

I serviced an Olympian propane gen set once that was powered with a Ford Pinto engine.

Kohler loved those "Ford Metric" engines as well. I have the oddball triple square head bolt socket for them, but have yet to need it.

 

[Birken Vogt]

We have two of the Ford/Olympian out in the yard, and one Kohler. Customers all over with the Onan/Cummins version, Kohler, also at least one Generac.

They have a timing belt but non-interference and easy to change. Aside from that, a pretty perfect engine.

 

[MarshallPowerGen]

We have two of the Ford/Olympian out in the yard, and one Kohler. Customers all over with the Onan/Cummins version, Kohler, also at least one Generac.

They have a timing belt but non-interference and easy to change. Aside from that, a pretty perfect engine.

Funny, I think the last one I serviced was an Onan unit. I'd only seen them in Kohlers until that point, so was thrown off seeing one in Onan green. That may have been in Eastern Oregon or down in Elko, Nevada. Can't recall exactly.

Agreed they're a damn good engine that was put into a car with a bad rep, but do very well in the industrial world.

 

[Birken Vogt]

Ford Rangers used something like them also. I think that is a pretty good platform.

 

[Steve Bowman]

Follow up. Maybe I should start a new thread...

I have the engine back together and I'm trying to start it but I am having trouble with the fuel injection pump. There seems to be a blockage on the return fuel line somewhere. I can crack the supply fitting loose at the fuel pump and use the hand pump just fine. But with all the lines tight I cannot pump the hand pump at all. It is very hard.

Cracking the lines at the injectors does not really produce any fuel when cranking

 

[Steve Bowman]

Mot really sure the best course of action, but i need to get the blockage freed up. Injection pump is a Mikuni.

 

[thepumpguysc]

The double bolt by the name plate IS the bleed screw.. break the 5/16 center screw loose & crank the engine.. does fuel squirt out about 5 feet?? ALL FUEL & NO AIR.. GOOD, tighten it up.
Check the solenoid on the side of the pump.. {red wire}
U SHOULD be able to HEAR IT click.. if not, take it out & see if u can take the guts outta it..
IF NOT, don't force it.. bench test it.. The body is the - ground..

 

[thepumpguysc]

The inj. pump is a CAV, DPA assembled in Japan for Mikuni..
CAV now Delphi is headquartered in England.

 

[Steve Bowman]

Thanks for the info guys. I had removed the bleed screw "above" the tag without getting any fuel.

I will try the one on the bottom.

 

[Welder Dave]

I think thepumpguysc is referring to the bolt with lock nut above the tag not the large hex below it. The bolt with lock nut on the top cover is also a bleed screw. On my Perkins one is above the other but they both need to have fuel. It's been awhile but I think fuel should run out when it reaches the injection pump and using the hand primer or cranking the engine, fuel should shoot out really good. Do it till you have no bubbles and then do it some more. If you have fuel shooting out and/or running out both bleed screws with no bubbles and it won't fire, a tiny shot of ether is all it takes to get mine going. Try it without ether 2 or 3 times first.

It sure sounds like you're not getting fuel so the solenoid could be the culprit or a blockage in the supply line somewhere. Do you have fuel if you bleed the filters? I had a blockage in the tank from the screen on the petcock disintegrating. When I put it back together fuel wouldn't flow to the sediment bowl unless I left the sediment bowl loose. I left it loose and let the sediment bowl overflow before tightening it and then the hand primer worked properly. Hand primer should be firm but not hard with the bleed screw(s) out. You could try with the fuel cap loose, it may need to vent.

 

[Steve Bowman]

Yes, i have fuel to the banjo fitting on the pump. Nothing came out of the rop bleed screw. Haven't tried the bottom one yet.

When i say it is hard to pump, i mean it is completely solid. Unless i loosen the banjo fitting. Loosening the return line did not help either. Seems like something in the pump.

 

[thepumpguysc]

U WONT GET FUEL out of the TOP bleed screw until the pump IS FULL OF FUEL/running..
Fuel should come out of the bleed screw by the name plate weather using the HP or cranking the engine..
What are u talking about "banjo bolt"?? Are u talking about the fuel INLET bolt that's at the end of the pump? no fuel THERE? Then u def. have a blockage from the filter head TO the pump inlet.
Take a pic of the filter set-up..
IF u have the 1 that has the long bolt that holds the filter and bowl on.??
U put the filter oring on WRONG.. The oring MUST Go UP IN the filter head NOT ON the filter..

 

[Steve Bowman]

Maybe i was not clear. I DO get fuel at the banjo fitting at the end of the pump. I have not taken the filter apart.

The filter is not the issue.

 

[thepumpguysc]

If u say so..
Try this>> while cranking the motor.. work the shut off lever back & forth a few times..
DO THIS WHILE CRANKING THE ENGINE.. cuz if the metering valve is stuck & u work the sh-off lever WITHOUT cranking the engine, you'll stick it even more..

 

[thepumpguysc]

U DO have the steel lines loose at the pump or injectors don't you??

 

[Steve Bowman]

Which lever is the shutoff? Next to the front cover, or the other end of the pump. I have worked them a fww times, but nothing excessive.

Yes, loose at the injectors.

Thanks for the info

 

[thepumpguysc]

The 1 w/ the silly bracket is the THROTTLE & SHOULD BE HELD in the WIDE OPEN position.. while cranking.!!
The 1 w/ the spring on it is the manual SHUT OFF.. up towards the mounting end of the pump on the top cover..
U BETTER MAKE SURE the electric solenoid is working 1st..
SOME of those engines had a "push button" SAFETY start system, where u had to push & hold a button so oil pressure could rise before it stayed running.. THAT button engaged the electric solenoid.
Can u hear it clicking when u turn the key ON..??

 

[thepumpguysc]

I just noticed "something"..
In the 2nd & 3rd pic.. in the wire LOOM.. it looks like the solenoid is UN-PLUGGED.??

 

[Welder Dave]

It certainly does look un-plugged. LoL

 

[MarshallPowerGen]

I just noticed "something"..
In the 2nd & 3rd pic.. in the wire LOOM.. it looks like the solenoid is UN-PLUGGED.??

Good eye!