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Welding receivers to blade

BrianGrenier

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Jun 27, 2010
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307
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Willow, AK
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Thanks @56wrench,

I might need to watch a few more YouTube videos for uphill welding technique.

I was using e6011 3/32 for an initial pass and then 7018 1/8". the 6011 was pretty easy to strike and the 7018 was harder and had more sticks. It seemed about 63amps for the 6011 + 72 apps for the 7018, running the little machine on 240v.

I used a lot of preheat and post heat with the weed burner. Temperature had been in the minuses here but it warmed up into the twenties, Fahrenheit so it seemed like a decent time to try. The steel was cold my friend. I'll take your advice about some more passes and maybe grind down some of the welds and give it another shot if the weather is warmer.

Thanks for the help
 

Willie B

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Jan 2, 2016
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Mount Tabor VT
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Electrician
I am overwhelmed waiting to hear how it works. I wish you no misfortune, but I'd bet against it working.

Ignorant fabricators, not qualified to engineer overbuild. You have gone to the extreme of underbuilding. I wish you all the best, but if yours works, I've been overdoing it all these years.
 

56wrench

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Dec 4, 2016
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alberta
I've never used an inverter welder but compared to dc rectifier or dc portable, the amperage seems low.
 

old-iron-habit

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Nov 22, 2012
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Moose Lake, MN
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Retired Cons't. Supt./Hospitals
I am overwhelmed waiting to hear how it works. I wish you no misfortune, but I'd bet against it working.

Ignorant fabricators, not qualified to engineer overbuild. You have gone to the extreme of underbuilding. I wish you all the best, but if yours works, I've been overdoing it all these years.

I just seen this post for the first time. i have over built everything I build for many years. The plow blade being used looks light to me. The only horizontal members are the bent gauge metal on the top and the bottom cutting edge. With the thrust generated from the grader running chains, I hope not, but expect to gradually see a semi V plow formed when both ends of the blade bend back in a hard push. Maybe it will work better with a rounded V in it. Good luck. Time will tell.
 

BrianGrenier

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Screenshot_20211202-153359.png Screenshot_20211202-153323.png Screenshot_20211202-153229.png No time like the present! I thought it was looking solid, but honest criticism is welcome!
 
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Willie B

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Jan 2, 2016
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Mount Tabor VT
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I've never used an inverter welder but compared to dc rectifier or dc portable, the amperage seems low.
Inverters need less input power, Output is whatever a transformer based welder would need. For example, my old 310 amp AC output transformer (Dialarc 250HF) needed 105 amps at 240 volts input. My present 280 amp AC output needs 37 amps input. Amazingly, AC, used for aluminum, an inverter can use very different balance. 280 does the job a sine wave welder would need 310.

In steel, DC stick welding output amperage is pretty much the same. In 1/8" 7018 I want 110 amps output. I also need duty cycle so I can make it hot, & keep it hot until I'm done. Some of these little fellows are 9% duty cycle, (less than 1 minute out of 10.
 

crane operator

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Mar 27, 2009
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8,315
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sw missouri
#1 I don't see any way you have gotten enough penetration and weld with that little inverter. You're welding what looks like 1" plate to 1" plate with a teeny tiny welder. You need amps and some bigger rod to do justice to plate like that

#2 why didn't you weld on up the verticals? With the plow on the bottom like that, if you welded up at the top, it would have a lot more length away from the pressure point, making it less likely to break off. There was no reason to put the long bars on, if you aren't going to weld it to the plate up top. 4" of weld up there is going to do more good than all of that weld toward the bottom.

#3 I included a little drawing that I got off the web, that should give you a idea of how large your welds should be for 1" plate.

#4. You've really just got it tacked together, so unless you plan on just leaving it lay when it falls off, get someone to come over with a engine driven welder and burn it home.


plow front_LI.jpg

fillet weld.png
 

Delmer

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Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,887
Location
WI
The tops of the middle pieces need welding, like shown. And the whole of the side pieces needs to be welded bigger. especially the front and back.

It is much easier to weld that size with a larger welder, but it's possible to do the same thing with a small welder like that. 3/32 is making it even harder if that welder has enough power to weld 1/8" hot enough. A big welder would get some penetration with no grinding, but you'd be better off grinding a vee, or bevel in this case to help with penetration. The penetration massively strengthens the weld with less weld metal, because the without the extra penetration a much larger bead is required.
 

crane operator

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sw missouri
but you'd be better off grinding a vee, or bevel in this case to help with penetration.

I agree that some bevel would be great, but he's kinda missed that boat already. There's no way to bevel any of it without cutting it all off, is there? I think the only "solution" is then more heat and multiple passes.
 

Delmer

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WI
He could run it and grind the bevels the next time he welds it up. or the top of those centers could be ground in place then welded up. But yes, that should have been beveled, because there is minimal penetration into the root, and a big piece of steel.
Personally, the small welder is capable of solid welding, but like a mig welder, it's easier to do a poor weld with that than a bigger on.
 
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