I havent gotten to the mains yet, i will have to look at those closer this is a tier 4 interim engine .Removing the top main bearings, one must be careful. Those use plastic nylon piston coolers that install through the main bearing {block housing bore}. Sometimes when removing
the upper bearing the piston coolers will slide down blocking the top main bearing from rolling in place. If that happens-it's engine pull time. Rodeo City here we come.
I'm not even gonna think about it this poor peterbilt service truck has been used and abused by everyone that had it. Im gonna use it as a spare service truck while i work on mine or the other guys untill such time that another field tech is needed.I remember the "B" series had lots of broken rod bolts if you didn't replace them every time you took one loose. Is something that needs some thought on those rod studs?
Macks are the worst they can sit for weeks with the pan off and soon as you crack something free they drown your butt with oil this one wasnt terrible its been sitting a week with the pan off and it seems most of the crank has dripped out. Bottom main wore thru top layer and is into the really shiny layer , upper rods wore thru three layers and just getting the copper underlayment showing thru ,bottom rod bearings show sign of coolant damage probably happened before it had a programming change to the ecu. It was time for the rods to be changed at minimumReminds me of the Last Thermodyne I was gazing up into as it dripped in my eyes, take rod cap off, push rod/piston Up out of the way and before had hands away was BACK down seated on the crank. Rings were TOTALLY Crap Shot, would not EVEN hold the pistons and rods up in the bores, and the old guy just wanted a set of R&Ms put in.
There is one 1977 brigadier in the farm fleet that has an 8v71 , it takes a week to get hands clean after oil change.Dang, that engine looks too clean need to work on an old Detroit V71!
I cant remember this for the life of me and have to dig back in here evertime i service this truck . Just got to remember its almost like a chevy car reset2006 c7500 cat c7 engine . Service due light reset procedure.
Key off brake pedal fully depressed, key to run fully depress and release accel pedal 3 times within 10 seconds , then key off, start truck do it again if it didnt work the firsy time .
Posting this mostly as a reminder for myself that is. some hard info to find when you dont have an owner manual in any of the 4 Chevy trucks we have .