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Volvo A25c project

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by Jam, Sep 15, 2015.

  1. Jam

    Jam Well-Known Member

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    I moved the pump timing to 14degrees and also found a pin hole in the air pipe coming from intake manifold to pump. Engine revs up now but is clearly under load. If you hold the revs up the transmission temperature climbs steadily. Would it be possible that the retarder in the box is stuck on?
     
  2. Cmark

    Cmark Senior Member

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    Not certain about the specific retarder on an A35 but I would expect it to work on the output side of the transmission and so only create heat when the truck is moving. The majority of heat in a powershift transmission is usually generated by the torque converter.

    Possible scenarios for unexpected TQ stall are transmission in gear but parking brake stuck on, (but you would then notice the machine straining against the brake,) or, transmission has multiple incorrect clutch packs engaged at the same time.

    Looking at the gauges, would you say the transmission temp is coming up independently or is the engine temp dragging the tranny up with it?
     
  3. Jam

    Jam Well-Known Member

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    If you open the throttle the trans temp rises up first and the engine temp follows after a while. If the trans temp is at 40 degrees and you press throttle I can watch it rise steadily until I leave it back to idle. If I leave off the handbrake she will roll freely so it's not fighting against a gear I think.
     
  4. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    While you were working on the engine did you have any of the power train hydraulic system apart..?
     
  5. Jam

    Jam Well-Known Member

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    I had the two front facing hydraulic pumps off alright to get the sump down.
     
  6. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    in that case is there any possibility that you hooked sometrhing up wrong..?
     
  7. Jam

    Jam Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Nige. After a lot of head scratching and messing about it turned out to be a stuck electric solenoid in front of the windscreen sending an air supply down to the retarder relay keeping it turned on. Once I disconnected the air supply everything is perfect so must get a new solenoid to get the retarder working again. All I can say is thank god for service manuals:)
     
  8. tctractors

    tctractors Senior Member

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    The retarder control is very simple so it might be worth checking out the foot control as this could be your issue, the mag valve needs to have electrical power to energize the air spool going to the retarder valve on the gear case, this would be a rare fault to have on a dumper, no doubt when you had the 2 front pumps off the drive case you looked at the screen filter behind the plug on the drive case? the retarder warning light on the display should have helped you spot the fault showing retarder on, I would always go through all the controls, warning lights and fuses on a service/repair job, the mag coils (solenoid) when faulty just don't work? did this dumper get the big engine rebuild due to a "Tarder Fault" in the very start, the G/Box usually lasts around the 16'000 18'000 hours on A25C's, they are 1 of the easy ones to remove/replace compared to the later series dumpers but they are still pigs to tackle, I do have the trolley frame for gearbox removal on Volvo Dumpers, the last time I used it was on an A30 about 4 years ago.
    tctractors
     
  9. Jam

    Jam Well-Known Member

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  10. Jam

    Jam Well-Known Member

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    My problem seems to be this solenoid. I don't know is it because she was parked for a long time but it's not seating properly. Even with the plug off its still leaving an air supply down to the retarder. There seems to be two regulators feeding it. Would that be for the two retarder strength levels? Other that this she is getting close to a trial run!
     
  11. Jam

    Jam Well-Known Member

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  12. Jam

    Jam Well-Known Member

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    Just another small update. The dumper has around 60hrs on the engine and seems to be going well. I put a new solenoid in for the retarder so that's working properly now too. Couple of small things like a leaking sight glass in the hydraulic tank and a hole in the exhaust box to sort out when it comes back to the yard but overall I'm very happy so far.
     
  13. Jam

    Jam Well-Known Member

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    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

    Changed out the handbrake disk with pads and a new exhaust box.
     
  14. Richardjw~

    Richardjw~ Senior Member

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    nice job there Jam, good to see it working
     
  15. Jam

    Jam Well-Known Member

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    Just wrapping this up lads. Thanks for all the help with it. Finally got the last few small bits sorted out and got her painted. Painted the cab frame black to be a bit different and made a set of back mud flaps. Overall I'm very happy with the result
     

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  16. Volvopro

    Volvopro Member

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    She looks a tidy dumper now, good work.
     
  17. ETMF 58 White

    ETMF 58 White Well-Known Member

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    Did you do an in-frame overhaul on the engine? Looks like I’m going to have to overhaul mine and I’m hoping I don’t need to pull the engine. Mine just started putting antifreeze in the oil and also pushing antifreeze out the coolant tank so I guess I have something going on in there. Where can I get a shop manual to guide me in this process?
     
  18. Jam

    Jam Well-Known Member

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    Easy to work on in frame. A lovely straightforward engine
     
  19. ETMF 58 White

    ETMF 58 White Well-Known Member

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    I did find a shop manual from Volvo for the engine. In the section that deals with setting the liners, am I reading it correctly that if there is no damage to the liner seats, and if liner height can be adjusted with shims, that it is very possible that I won’t have to mill the bores at all? Because I don’t have the tool to do that and don’t know who does. I really don’t know how to do this rebuild job, but I’m thinking I can learn as I go since it’s a wintertime project. I’m thinking about just tearing it all down myself then hiring a real mechanic to do the technical parts of it.