I don't think I broke it initially, when I started it the first time and it leaked I re-checked the bolts and snugged them up a bit and felt it compress, I assumed at the time it was the o-ring squishing, but now it was likely that piece breaking. Yea I can say this is the worst i've ever done, so I guess i'm not doing too bad. I've had shops mess up my stuff far more times and much worse then this. I'm trying to get in the habit of making sure I take the time to do repairs properly and fix it right the first time instead of rushing.
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Truck heating up
- Thread starter suladas
- Start date
I don't think I broke it initially, when I started it the first time and it leaked I re-checked the bolts and snugged them up a bit and felt it compress, I assumed at the time it was the o-ring squishing, but now it was likely that piece breaking. Yea I can say this is the worst i've ever done, so I guess i'm not doing too bad. I've had shops mess up my stuff far more times and much worse then this. I'm trying to get in the habit of making sure I take the time to do repairs properly and fix it right the first time instead of rushing.
Well turns out it's much worse then I thought. Today was the first day using the truck again and it's pushing coolant out the rad, and all of a sudden blowby like crazy (I can't say i've paid attention to if it did in the last bit but I never remember any). Also lost all heat shortly after it started puking out coolant bad. I pulled air line off for the heater thing and no change. It's waiting to get looked at but I was told air compressor or head gasket. When it was warming up prior I never saw over 215 on the gauge and that was only once, I can't see how I cooked the head gasket, and never had any issues with coolant pushing out before it was worked on. Seems so odd to just start all of sudden.
I'm assuming the truck isn't worth doing a head gasket if that's the problem. Hoping it's not the issue.
I'm assuming the truck isn't worth doing a head gasket if that's the problem. Hoping it's not the issue.
92U 3406
Senior Member
The B model Cat is still a pretty desirable engine.
I don't know the history of the truck i've had it little over 3 years, if the engine needs to be tore into it would probably only make sense to do a full rebuild? It's always ran good, but i'm guessing it has a lot of miles on the motor if it's ever even been rebuilt before. That has to be an insane number. I mean I would consider it depending on the cost, and have the rest of the truck looked over and see if it's worth it.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Pushing coolant and blow by. Compressor can pressurize coolant system, the blow-by--IMO
a leaking liner causing both. After setting overnight and oil drain plug just barely removed
to check for drops of coolant plus check for gases in coolant system, hope they do both before
going too far.
a leaking liner causing both. After setting overnight and oil drain plug just barely removed
to check for drops of coolant plus check for gases in coolant system, hope they do both before
going too far.
92U 3406
Senior Member
Unfortunately you won't really know what you're into in terms of liner condition until the head comes off (if it needs to). I pulled the head off my 3406A and ended up with nearly $10k into it between having a bunch of machine work, 6 new cylinder kits and a new spacer plate. That was at cost +5% on all the parts too and me doing all the labour.
So it could likely turn into a $20-25k+ bill pretty quick? I mean the bill for fixing my mistake was $2100 and that wasn't much, it adds up fast.
I really don't know if I want to dump that much into it. I'm guessing the box and cylinder I could get 5-6k for alone as I just spent $3k on a new cylinder last summer, and the rest of the truck I would think has to be worth at least $5k. If it's going to be that expensive, might just be better off selling it as-is and buying a new truck. I'm about $30k into it, if I get $10k for it it's made me enough money I have no complaints.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
I don't think you'd get that much if the engine has issues, however you might find another truck in rough shape but with a decent engine. I was at an RB auction and a couple least desireable dump trucks sold under 5K. They were older with air suspension but 1 had a 3406B with recent work orders on the engine. I know some brothers on a farm that had a Ford COE with a rebuilt 3406B 400HP. The 1 brother that bought it passed away. His wife just wanted it gone. Nobody wanted it and they basically gave it away under $1000! I think it might have brought more at auction just for the engine. I looked at another dump truck the owner wanted about $9500 for. It had a 3406B as well but was more of a highway truck with not much ground clearance. About a year later I asked if it ever sold and was told it went for $2750. There's deals out there but being in the right place at the right time is the problem.
DMiller
Senior Member
Other point is try to find a different truck not needing $5-10k in repairs for under $15-25 can license and start using right away.
Spud_Monkey
Senior Member
Preferably with one that can interchange parts with the old one so you aren't starting over new and have spare parts.
cfherrman
Senior Member
The truck I'm sitting in right now, a 2014 mack, has had the nox sensors replaced several times at $900 a piece. Dont think a new truck could be cheaper to operate. 3406 typically will be cheaper than most engines.
I'm torn on what to do, assuming it's not going to be cheap to fix, if it's anything under $5k I won't hesitate to fix it. I am extremely busy and I don't care if I have to spend up to even 140k at this point I just want a truck that works. Problem is no auctions for quite awhile and anything on Kijiji i've found is stupidly priced, even beyond what it should be right now. I don't want a $140k truck that's a nightmare either.
It has crossed my mind to get the truck looked at other then engine and decide if it's worth spending a ton to just rebuild the engine so it's fixed and never have to worry about it again, even if it's like $30k. But i'm concerned with the rust on the cab, i'd imagine it's got a few years left before it's going to need some wor
I also called a shop about cost to put a Cummins ISL in the international, I was told around $45k. If I spent $45k buying my dads international, worst case if the maxxforce went i'd be $90k into that truck. Compared to what's for sale, that sounds like a better option.
I'm just in a bind, if my truck can't be fixed within a few weeks my dad needs to unload his asap so I have to either buy it or buy something else right away. I could spend $5-10k getting my hoe moved in a hurry if I don't have a truck.
It has crossed my mind to get the truck looked at other then engine and decide if it's worth spending a ton to just rebuild the engine so it's fixed and never have to worry about it again, even if it's like $30k. But i'm concerned with the rust on the cab, i'd imagine it's got a few years left before it's going to need some wor
I also called a shop about cost to put a Cummins ISL in the international, I was told around $45k. If I spent $45k buying my dads international, worst case if the maxxforce went i'd be $90k into that truck. Compared to what's for sale, that sounds like a better option.
I'm just in a bind, if my truck can't be fixed within a few weeks my dad needs to unload his asap so I have to either buy it or buy something else right away. I could spend $5-10k getting my hoe moved in a hurry if I don't have a truck.
DMiller
Senior Member
If a Head, Aftermarket units are $4-5k US, Head Gasket or injector/Nozzle cups different story and just head work checking block deck and cleaning. Engine having enough hours and/or miles, Mains Rods Rings and Sleeves another $8-12k US or go IPD and buy a Overhaul KIT Aftermarket. In ANY Case, should it need inside block work, Block Comes OUT.
92U 3406
Senior Member
To get my block hot tanked, deck trued up, main journal alignment checked (boring was not needed), all 6 liner seal surfaces cut/sleeved and the crank/cam polished cost me around $3500 CAD a couple years ago.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Suladas-down here a in-frame including cutting block for liner shims using Cat parts will run anywhere
from $18,000 to $23,000 depending on extras. There are a lot of unknowns till it's disassembled, but
that would be my best estimate.
The block/counterbores can be cut for liner shims with block in-frame, unless the deck is in bad shape
overall-liner shims will take care of a ton of issues. Even with a rusty cab you will still know what's
under the hood. There is so many worn out trucks for sale IMO your buying someone else's trouble.
It's hard to bite the bullet but sometimes it's necessary to just repair what you have.
from $18,000 to $23,000 depending on extras. There are a lot of unknowns till it's disassembled, but
that would be my best estimate.
The block/counterbores can be cut for liner shims with block in-frame, unless the deck is in bad shape
overall-liner shims will take care of a ton of issues. Even with a rusty cab you will still know what's
under the hood. There is so many worn out trucks for sale IMO your buying someone else's trouble.
It's hard to bite the bullet but sometimes it's necessary to just repair what you have.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
What about looking at older highway tractors just for the engine? They can go pretty cheap sometimes.
Shimmy1
Senior Member
Fix it. Anything, and I mean ANYTHING you buy could end up costing you $20k or more after the first day, unless you buy something with warranty.
What?
You’ve got the dog, your own place, all the cool friends here who appreciate you, and pizza. You’re one, lucky dude!!
You’ve got the dog, your own place, all the cool friends here who appreciate you, and pizza. You’re one, lucky dude!!
I’m not a mechanic, but I had a similar thing happen with my Deere 310L backhoe. No heat. Deere suggested bad thermostat, and sold me two. The old ones looked ok, and seemed to open and close when you’d expect. Since I had it open, I replaced them with new.
Solved the problem.