One is for trucks like yours. Opening on the filter is on top. These engines were used on many different applications as in construction and Ag. Some have the filter opening on the bottom when installed with space limitations on some.
Replace both calipers and the rubber brake hoses. Bad hoses can hold pressure on the caliper.
We used to rebuild them but with trucks the age of yours that usually does not work out for me. However you do it do the whole axle. Use nothing questionable.
If you had to replace the whole spider sounds like something got hit somewhere in the past. I don't see how that would affect things then again your rig is different than mine as it would be impossible to affect this truck in that form unless as stated.
I got new calipers on the way too, so far $981 for new rotors (stealership ordered), new calipers, new oil seals, new brake pads and new brake caliper housing bolts. New hoses hmmm they could swell shut over time, going to look for those now too. Might as well put DOT 5.1 in the system
I put the anti drain back one on with the other one. Think I'm going to name this truck Frankenstein. Eaton 6 speed transmission in it, air seats in it, hubs and brakes from nothing that matches with the VIN, new clutch, extended drive shaft and turned the fuel up done by me so far.
Hope you like that new trans, I too have a 1985 S1900, DT466, SPICER 5SPD./2SPD Rear,Air brakes. I like the old truck, but not the Spicer trans, you got me to thinking about a reasonable swap! My truck has a dump bed on it; maybe a better shifting trans would help with the loads.
Don't know if my clutch isn't adjusted right or not on mine, but I do know it has problem down shifting I have to rev match and it's a full synchro transmission hence the FS6206A. So it's not needing a double shift.
It's a double disc, brand new too. Was looking at the book last night I just got CTS-4219 and it shows there needs to be 1/8 space between the pawl and the throwout bearing with pedal all the way up so I will check that. All of the linkage was taken loose when I put the "new" transmission in and I had to fabricate the linkage to transmission with old linkage.
Little bit of JB weld smeared around the race on external sides wipe off excess install and wait 24 hrs before assembling hub back on. Try to make this last about 2 months, not hauling anything but truck camper I live in, damn front brakes have drained finances. Need about 5000 or less miles before I can change it out. Seen a Twin Disc marine transmission repaired with hole in transmission on a pressure channel with JB weld, I refused to do it had the owner do it and I took the day off.
That's what the mechanic did for the company owner who last owned this truck, I can see remnants of it in the pits in the area of where it went. Just not easy finding this hub only found one in Colorado for $250, Budd 105312. Would love to park it and not use the truck till fix, but in middle of living in it and my property is 1200 miles away.
Thought about staking it with mig welding dots around the outside of the race, then grind them down till little is left then press it in with JB weld and wait 24 hrs to assemble it back on the truck.