• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Todays pick up

doublewide

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
844
Location
MA
After removing the top deck plates I have good access to the top of the engine. I removed the intake manifold, valve cover, exhaust manifold. I pulled the glow plugs and disconnected the fuel lines from the injectors.20190901_155035[1].jpg 20190901_174515[1].jpg
 

doublewide

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
844
Location
MA
And I dropped the oil pan. That was enough as I already worked a full day. I'll have to look through my manual tonight so I can set the engine to TDC before I go any further.

I wonder if there's a way to lock the engine at TDC like on my John Deere?20190901_174522[1].jpg 20190901_174718[1].jpg
 

doublewide

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
844
Location
MA
Today’s progress;


Drained the coolant from the block.


After cleaning years worth of crud off the front of the block I finally found the timing pointer and marks. I engaged the PTO clutch and, using a large pipe wrench on the stub shaft, rotated the crank till I lined up the timing marks. I then verified that No. 1 piston was at TDC on the compression stroke by verifying that the push rods were free to move. I also removed the side cover from the injection pump to check the timing marks there but saw only one. No corresponding mark. I believe timing is 2 degrees BTDC so if I back off No. 1 a bit I may find the other mark. I’ll check that later before I get into pulling the pump.


20190902_110809.jpg 20190902_110820.jpg
 
Last edited:

doublewide

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
844
Location
MA
Next I loosened all the lock nuts on the rockers and backed off the valve lash adjustment screws to relieve the tension on the rocker arms before I broke all the head bolts free. Then I was able to back off the head bolts in stages following the reverse order of the torque sequence listed in the manual.


I removed the rocker arm assemblies and the push rods to a cardboard box. I lifted the head from the block.


20190902_141825.jpg 20190902_141841.jpg
 
Last edited:

doublewide

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
844
Location
MA
Picked up the head today from the machine shop. Besides having several cracks in the injector ports, when pressurized, it leaked like a sieve.20190906_130410.jpg 20190906_130620.jpg
 

doublewide

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
844
Location
MA
20200122_192234.jpg At this point I am almost certain that I will not rebuild the International UD 282 engine in this machine. From my research, it is apparent that the 282 is notorious for blowing head gaskets and cracking heads. And, as the head that I have will either need to be replaced or repaired and then rebuilt, the estimated $1,600.00 for that service would be better off spent in other ways. In addition, another $1000.00 for a piston/rod/sleeve/bearing rebuild kit… plus new or rebuilt injectors...plus rebuilt injector pump..and on and on...for an antique power plant that makes 75 HP.


Lately I have been considering repowering with a Cummins 4B.


Considerations; the front of the crank will drive a hydraulic pump.


The flywheel end will have a twin disc clutch on it.


There is plenty of room in the engine bay so space is not much of a consideration.


Any thoughts?, or recommendations of other engine options?
 

mitch504

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
5,776
Location
Andrews SC
A 3-71 is not really obsolete, as there were so many.

The only concern I really have is that it doesn't really like slow speed operation.

On edit: Uh oh, that's marinized. You would have to change manifolds, and cooling system. You would probably be better off finding something that worked on land.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DB2

doublewide

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
844
Location
MA
20200516_184553~2.jpg So I’ve been looking into the feasibility of a Cummins 4bt swap and here are a few items that I’m working out.


-If you go back to page 3 you’ll see that I just purchased a new PTO clutch for this machine. The clutch is for a #2 SAE bellhousing and has a 8” disc. I would really like to be able to use it to avoid any additional cost. The cummins is available with a #2 SAE bellhousing so that will work but the flywheel is for a 10” disc. I believe that I can get an adaptor drive ring from these folks;

https://phxgrp.com/engine-auxiliary/driveline-adapters/ .

My concern is that the 8” clutch may be inadequate for the additional power of the Cummins.

So my options here would be;

-Bite the bullet and buy a new Over Center Clutch to go with the new engine.

-Use the clutch I have and buy a adaptor drive ring.

-Replace the disc portion of the clutch I have with a 10” disc assembly.

Thoughts?


20190530_081642.jpg
 

repowerguy

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2015
Messages
810
Location
United States southern Ohio
Occupation
mixer truck mechanic
If the clutch only drives the vibratory system on the roller, then it should be just fine. It is a fixed input power item that will only use so much power at a set RPM.
If the extra HP on the 4BT is worrisome, you can always adjust down the fuel rate to the power level the IH had.
 

doublewide

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
844
Location
MA
Thanks for that repowerguy, I appreciate the input!

Next item;
If you go back to post #37, you’ll see that the roller is currently driven by a hydraulic pump driven off of the front of the 282’s crankshaft. The pump is currently connected via a lovejoy coupling. The Cummins has an available crankshaft flange, ( item #2 below & Cummins part # 3903829) that I understand is to drive front mounted accessories. It is also possible to flip the fan mounting bracket to gain additional clearance between the fan and the crankshaft centerline. Doing so will still only provide 2.67 inches of clearance between the fan and crank CL. I may have to swap the fan for a smaller diameter one and probably connect the pump via a driveshaft to clear the bottom of the radiator. I will have to pull the numbers off the hydraulic pump to see what the power requirements are…

My question is, does anyone know if there is a horsepower load limit on that Cummins crankshaft flange? How about on the crankshaft snout itself?

20181204_151035.jpg Crankshaft drive flange.jpg
 

doublewide

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
844
Location
MA
Don't know what the power limit is, but the front drive on a 590 and a 680 Case hoe will be pretty heavy at full load. You may want to look at a front drive off of a Case hoe to see if it could fit your needs, a used one should be cheaper.

Good idea there, thanks! Or make the existing drive coupling work with the Cummins...
 

doublewide

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
844
Location
MA
.....If the extra HP on the 4BT is worrisome, you can always adjust down the fuel rate to the power level the IH had.

Since you bring it up;

We have a wood chipper at worker that has a Cummins 4bt. It is set up to run at 2300rpm. I cannot imagine running the Essick roller with the engine cranked up like that. As I was firing up the wood chipper yesterday I was thinking about the roller and when I had the Cummins at about 1600 rpm I felt that sounded maximum.

This is from the engine distributor that I have been talking to;

“Our 4BT105HP package uses an industrial (rather than automotive) RSV governor that is designed for construction equipment such as a skid steer, tractor, wood chipper, etc. The RSV governor is better at keeping the rpm steady as load on the engine varies. This particular fuel rating has it’s peak HP rating at 2800rpm, and peak torque at 1500-1600rpm. You will get better performance from the engine in the 1600 – 2200 rpm range”



So, should I be considering adjusting the fuel at the injector pump? Anything else? Better off ordering it setup that way? Wait till, if I get it all installed and make minor adjustments based on use?
 
Top