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TL150 Yanmar 4TNV106T-XTBL Engine Issues

Discussion in 'Compact Track/Multi Terrain Loaders' started by decoursm, Mar 26, 2019.

  1. decoursm

    decoursm Active Member

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    Hey all,

    Have a 2004 Takeuchi TL150 powered by a 4 cylinder Turbo Charged Yanmar 4TNV106T-XTBL. I am not the first owner. Currently use it around my small farm for fence building, moving earth and other tasks.

    Some uniqueness to this setup... Intake heater, electric fuel priming and dummy lights only for engine instruments.

    I replaced all the fluids and filters after i bought it. The machine was always difficult to start, especially when cold.once it warmed up it would start immediately. Generally required a full charge to ensure starting when cold. Lots of black smoke when turning over. Lots of black smoke in general idleing and when under a load. After 100 hrs or so i noticed heavy oil consumption with exaust and oil discharge from the crankcase vent. I tore the engine down in place and discovered the number 1 and 4 oil rings were cracked. A lot of carbon on number 1 and 4 from hours of operation with blow by. I checked the pistons, lower bearings and cylinders for damage and excessive wear. All were within the specs per Yanmar. I flex honed, installed new rings with the older pistons and installed new lower bearings. I sent the head to the machine shop to get it cleaned and replace the valve seals. Machinest mentiones everything looked in order, but he did have to plane the head down a hair to square it up. I reassembled the machine, but did NOT pull apart the turbo, nor did i inspect it. Kicking myself (maybe). I ran it for a bit. Noticed no oil burn, leaking amd seemed to run great for about 50 or so hours. Until...

    It started to become difficult to start again. Lots of smoke during engine turn over. Lots of BLUE smoke when running and a ton of blue smoke under load. Noticed unburnt oil spitting out the exhaust. Crankcase vent is clean however; no smoke or oil. I have not yet taken the intake side of the turbo off yet. My question here is would a blown/malfunctioning turbo cause these symptoms? Is taking the intake side of the turbo off going to tell me anything?

    Thanks for the help!
    Matt
     
  2. heymccall

    heymccall Senior Member

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    Removing turbo inlet will allow you to spin the impeller, and, check for axial and radial play in shaft.

    As my TL150s age, I find that they start better with a preheat and 1/8 throttle. I believe that's what is written in operator's manual.

    I don't recall the turbo being horribly difficult to remove, but, the injection pump, well, that's a PITA.

    When my pumps were worn out, they were hard to start when warm. Cold was always fairly easy.

    As an aside, I've had issue with debris in the fuel tank plugging the bottom tank outlet, and the elbow inlet at the water separator.
     
  3. decoursm

    decoursm Active Member

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    McCall,
    Thank you for the TL150isms. Its helpful to know issue prone areas on a machine. Agree, the turbo isnt too difficult to get off, just wanted to get some thoughts on the symptoms before I started pullin her down again. Yes, the manual mentions throttle setting for starting though it doesnt seem to make a diffence. I preheat as well. It really sounds like the engine is turning underload after a few revolutions. Could the turbo be bypassing oil into the intake during engine start? Requiring a lot of cranking before combustion then start? Obviously could be another issue on the fuel side? Air in the injector lines. There is fresh fuel at the water seperator and when ive taken the injector lines off fuel immdediatly shoots from then lines during turnover.
     
  4. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    Have u TESTED the glow plugs.?? Just because the lite comes on, really doesn't mean they're working.
    Pull the hoses off the turbo & see if u can shake the shaft/wheel.. & look for obvious signs of oil..
    Instead of pulling it down.. why not do a compression test.?? either thru the injector or the GP hole..
    U did a partial inframe & didn't get the fuel system checked.. why.??
    What do u think caused the rings to crack.?? I'm not saying the pump or injectors did it.. I'm asking what do u think caused it.??
     
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  5. decoursm

    decoursm Active Member

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    Thank you for taking the time to reply. Yeah i scratched my head for a bit too when i checked amd realized it didnt have glow plugs. It has an intake heater.

    Fuel system: very good question. I dont know what cracked the rings. I was wondering if the turbo could do it? Explain your thoughts on the fuel system causing the upper issues in the engine. Im at a loss...
     
  6. skata

    skata Senior Member

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    you reused the old pistons? if the piston skirts wore down, and the piston to cylinder clearance was too much, you'd get excessive piston movement, or slap. that could crack the rings.
     
  7. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    And if the injectors weren't spraying properly, the fuel could of been spraying, not on the crown but more on the sides of the piston.. You wont know until u get them checked..
    Could u see a definite spray pattern on the tops of the pistons.??
    I'm not familiar w/ this engine & didn't know it has an intake heater.. u never said weather it works or not..
    Can u post a pic of your engine.??
     
  8. decoursm

    decoursm Active Member

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    I did reuse the pistons. They were within the tolerences of the engine's rebuild manual.
     
  9. decoursm

    decoursm Active Member

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    Before and after cleaning of number 1 piston. It had a cracked oil ring and two cracked upper rings. Lots of carbon buikd up from burnt oil i suspect.... spray pattern from injectors appeared normal and similar with each injector, but i did not have them tested...
     

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  10. skata

    skata Senior Member

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    so you measured the piston diameter, and cylinder bore diameter?
     
  11. heymccall

    heymccall Senior Member

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    Yanmar 106 dont really slap the pistons without smearing the skirt. Not sure if I have pics or not. Been a while. I had a 1600hr (2100 on machine) TL150 with a horrible engine knock come in. Ended up with #1and #2 skirts smeared up and down bore. No metal in oil sample or filter, no performance issues, compression test (dry) didn't reveal anything, injector still in it today (8k hours).
    Piston rings were unmolested. So, I'm pretty sure it's not sloppy pistons.
     
  12. decoursm

    decoursm Active Member

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    Yes sir. Measures all the ring gaps demensions as well (gaps) as well. The engine doesnt knock either. Smooth operation. Im not hearing a turbo whine either, but not sure if that is a characteristic of this motor.
     
  13. decoursm

    decoursm Active Member

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    McCall i tend to agree. My father in law works on diesel engine quite regularly and went thru the rebuild with me. He said the pistons amd bearings were in grest shape. I onviously matched the correct pisons and rods with the cylinder numbers. Read my below reply to skata regaurding tuebo whine. Do you think the carbon build up on number 1 piston is from oil burn? All the other pistons were a lot cleaner and only number four had a slightly cracked oil ring. Number ones rings were destroyed comparatively speaking. My question is still can oil being injected from a turbo cause the ring damage i prior to the rebuild amd also becausing my current symptoms post rebuild?
     
  14. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    I have a question.. are u the only operator.?? is it possible someone "gave it a squirt" to get it started.??
    I think you'll know more when the injectors get tested.. THEN u can move on to other components.
    Generally speaking, a turbo wont whine unless there is serious oil starvation to the bearings..
    However, they will leak/seep oil past the oil ring for ANY NUMBER of reasons.. HOT shut-down being the main cause of bearing & oil ring failure.
    Simply grab the wheel's AT THE NUT & try to wiggle it up & down.. its THAT easy.. & look for oil in the ends.. The wheels shouldn't be tight but they shouldn't be loose either.. a couple thousands play if fine..
    IF in doubt> get a new one or have it rebuilt..
     
  15. decoursm

    decoursm Active Member

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    I am the only operator and I know starter fluid is a no no on diesel.

    I will pull the intake side off tonight and check the turbo. I do have a local injector shop to get them checked. Easy enough to do both.
     
  16. decoursm

    decoursm Active Member

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    Turbo has tons of play ... lots. Touching the side. Notice oil coming from the ring clamp that holds the turbo to the exahaust. First pic is with the impeller free. The second is me pushing it all the way to the metal edge.
     

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  17. heymccall

    heymccall Senior Member

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    Tara! You found the issue. If all else fails, I get Yanmar parts from ContinentalEngines in South Carolina. I know a TB53FR radiator is almost 1/2 what Takeuchi wanted.
    And, Yanmar only offers std and 10 over pistons for a 4tnv106t.
     
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  18. heymccall

    heymccall Senior Member

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    Stupid autocorrect. Tada!!! Was the intended word.

    123908-18010 turbo Screenshot_20190328-213007_Drive.jpg
     
  19. heymccall

    heymccall Senior Member

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    Oil piping Screenshot_20190328-213248_Drive.jpg
     
  20. heymccall

    heymccall Senior Member

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    Muffler gasket Screenshot_20190328-213903_Drive.jpg