-
Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
TL130 Fuel Stop Solenoid
- Thread starter drummer0901
- Start date
James alex zheltonoga
Well-Known Member
Thanks drummer i will test mine.
James alex zheltonoga
Well-Known Member
tested my emergency stop relays today and they both work. I have two yellow wires going into each one and they have 12v at all four yellow wires when i turn the key on. Does anyone know how to test the wires coming out of the controller that go to the emergency stop relays ? They dont have the colors of the wires printed on the wiring diagram. Not that it matters , i think Gehl uses a different wiring harness with different colored wires, I cant find any colors that match up on my machine with any of the relays.
James alex zheltonoga
Well-Known Member
What is the color of the wire that goes from the fuse to the #1 emergency stop relay ,it has WL on the diagram. And what color is the wire that goes from the #2 emergency relay to the emergency relay ,it has LB on the diagram.
drummer0901
Active Member
So i have 2 brand new relays in the K and L spot. Stop Solenoid Relay tests fine. What I am thinking is the the 2 emergency relays in the guage cluster, both test fine (See pic). Behavior is no power on the hold in circuit, power on the pull in circuit is for a few seconds when the key first turns on. Then turns off. I am just at a loss, and throwing parts aint cheap. Anyone see the tell tell sign that the gauge cluster board is bad?
Attachments
James alex zheltonoga
Well-Known Member
Drummer, i have the same problem. In the second picture that you posted there is a pink wire and two white wires with blue stripes going into the circuit board at the lower right side in the picture. If you power up the third wire in from the end of the plug your fuel shutoff solenoid should hold when you turn the key on. it will be the white with blue stripe wire ,two wires over from the pink one. I don't know what that means because i don't know where the white with blue wires go to when they come out of the cluster. maybe Heymccall knows. I gave up working on it today but i am getting closer. I will let you know if i figure it out
drummer0901
Active Member
Third wire from the end comes from the fuse box. It changes over to just white wire at the connection. The second from the end goes to relay K. I’m assuming this is signal wire I do have power to there, but that is where it stops. Can someone explain signal into relay K and signal out? These are 2 brand new relays.
About the only thing I haven’t checked is ground on the solenoid, wouldn’t think that would keep the hold in wire from no power while testing.
About the only thing I haven’t checked is ground on the solenoid, wouldn’t think that would keep the hold in wire from no power while testing.
drummer0901
Active Member
I finally have been able to track the wire that energizes the hold in wire coming out of the relay (k). I powered the white wire going into one of the pigtails to the relay, and the hold circuit works. I traced it back to 2 small white wires that are tapped off
the big white wire that comes out of the stop solenoid relay. The relay only gives power for a few seconds the turns off. Is my thinking right the dead end seams to point at the stop solenoid relay?
the big white wire that comes out of the stop solenoid relay. The relay only gives power for a few seconds the turns off. Is my thinking right the dead end seams to point at the stop solenoid relay?
James alex zheltonoga
Well-Known Member
i think that is the pull circuit that gives power for a few seconds then the hold circuit takes over. That white wire that energizes relay K comes from one of the two emergency relays that are soldered into the cluster circuit board. I am still trying to find out how to test them,instead of replacing the board. its very expensive.
drummer0901
Active Member
I have 2 relays inside the cluster but they are not soldered to the board. I tested those and I think they are good. That board is 700-800, I’m snot wanting to buy one either. The white wire going into K traces back to the pull in circuit white. but is the only wire that energizes the hold in circuit. You got a pic of the relays on the board?
James alex zheltonoga
Well-Known Member
Sorry i can take a picture but i have no clue of how to show it to you on this forum site. this forum is not user friendly and the help button only tells you how to post smiley faces.
James alex zheltonoga
Well-Known Member
I see the relays on the second picture you posted of the circuit board. They are at the bottom right,between that clump of pink wires. One is out in the open but you can only see half of the second one behind the wires. If you look real close i think there is a diagram printed on them of how they work,but i dont know how to test them and no one got back to me when i posted it.
drummer0901
Active Member
Today I ran a 20 amp fused 12Ga wire from a loose orange wire from the ignition switch to the red wire at the solenoid. The unit runs. Its not how I want to fix it, but I need the machine. I'm not up for buying a new cluster (if that is what it is) right now.
Will this harm the mahine long term?
Will this harm the mahine long term?
Nige
Senior Member
T'aint hard. Look at the bottom LH corner of the box where you write your replies. Click on the "attach files" paperclip, and then go to wherever your photo files are located on your PC or phone. Select the ones you want and away you go. You are limited to a maximum of 4 photos per reply though.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Here is another way to post an image. It may only work with an image. I haven't tried a file like .text or .pdf.
James alex zheltonoga
Well-Known Member
Thanks Nige and tinkerer I will try it.
drummer0901
Active Member
So my temporary fix of running a fused line to the red starter solenoid failed too.
The machine cut off after about 5 min of running, I tried starting it back and started smelling smoke. The stop solenoid was pretty hot. Is my only option to replace the gauge cluster at this point. I’ve replaced both of the other relays that are in the fuel stop circuit.
The machine cut off after about 5 min of running, I tried starting it back and started smelling smoke. The stop solenoid was pretty hot. Is my only option to replace the gauge cluster at this point. I’ve replaced both of the other relays that are in the fuel stop circuit.
James alex zheltonoga
Well-Known Member
That happened to me once, when i tried running a direct line. I must have wired direct about 2 dozen times just to move the machine out of the way. But it only fried the solenoid one time. I can'nt figure out why it did it. Now i am afraid to wire direct. Lucky for me i had an old injection pump with a good solenoid on it.
drummer0901
Active Member
I am still looking for answers. I put a new solenoid and I am back to square one. No power on the hold in circuit. Just can’t find the signal wire that triggers the hold in circuit to hold 12v.
drummer0901
Active Member
Anyone know if there is specific codes the warning lamps give off? I still can’t get my machine going, but notice now the warning triangle flashes top half, bottom half.