The fuel solenoid on myTL130 will pull in but will not hold, I have pulled the solenoid out and put 12 volts to the black and white wire and it will hold but gets hot quickly, I have replaced the emergency relay and the stop solenoid relay and the stop solenoid timer relay and still does not hold, I put a multimeter to the plug for the solenoid black and white shows 0.12 volts then turn the key and get 12.2 for a second then holds 0.11 volts, test the black and red wires and no voltage till I turn the key and get 0.04 volts, Any suggestions?
-
Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
TL130 feul selenoid
- Thread starter miltime
- Start date
thepumpguysc
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2010
- Messages
- 7,535
- Location
- Sunny South Carolina
- Occupation
- Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Its possible the HOLD coil in the sol. is burnt up.. happens a lot..
The BLACK & WHITE is the PULL coil & is only momentarily supplies w/ 12V & lots of amps usually from the starter..
The BLACK & RED wires are the HOLD coils{black being -} & usually get its power from 1 of the relays.
The easiest way I found to test 1 is> TAKE IT OFF.. & w/ a jump box or battery charger.. 12v low amps & testing the cols 1 at a time.. When testing the HOLD coils, u HAVE TO PUSH the plunger IN & see if it will hold..
Not as much pressure is needed on the PULL coil but some will be required.
The BLACK & WHITE is the PULL coil & is only momentarily supplies w/ 12V & lots of amps usually from the starter..
The BLACK & RED wires are the HOLD coils{black being -} & usually get its power from 1 of the relays.
The easiest way I found to test 1 is> TAKE IT OFF.. & w/ a jump box or battery charger.. 12v low amps & testing the cols 1 at a time.. When testing the HOLD coils, u HAVE TO PUSH the plunger IN & see if it will hold..
Not as much pressure is needed on the PULL coil but some will be required.
I have replaced all the relays , stop relay and timer relay , emergency relay and was told volt comes from instrument cluster and have also replaced that , now I get the proper 12v kick from the pull relay but am only getting 4volts to the hold circiut, feul solenoid is new also
thepumpguysc
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2010
- Messages
- 7,535
- Location
- Sunny South Carolina
- Occupation
- Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Did ur new sol. come w/ a mounting bracket that has elongated slots.??
&/OR.. Does it have a "rod" adjustment?? {2 lock nuts}
The hold circuit drops off because it doesn't require very many AMPS to hold it..
U need to adjust it..
The plunger MUST BE BOTTOMED in the housing when its FULLY retracted..
UNHOOK IT from the lever.. & activate it,,get it bottomed in the housing..
Now WITH IT RETRACTED IN THE HSG.. MANUALLY pull the stop LEVER..
The connection/holes MUST line up..between the LEVER & the SOLENOID ARM..
Good luck
It shoulda came w/ instructions.??
&/OR.. Does it have a "rod" adjustment?? {2 lock nuts}
The hold circuit drops off because it doesn't require very many AMPS to hold it..
U need to adjust it..
The plunger MUST BE BOTTOMED in the housing when its FULLY retracted..
UNHOOK IT from the lever.. & activate it,,get it bottomed in the housing..
Now WITH IT RETRACTED IN THE HSG.. MANUALLY pull the stop LEVER..
The connection/holes MUST line up..between the LEVER & the SOLENOID ARM..
Good luck
It shoulda came w/ instructions.??