The JLG 40F Boom Lift Dilemma

[flhayman]

I stumbled upon this by accident. I have a 40F that I would like to sell. I have been afraid to try, since it doesn't have OSHA safety inspections, etc. and requires some operator knowledge. Here are people that know about this machine! Overall good condition, I think. Brakes work, all switches work on the platform, horn relay works, but I never replaced the horn. Replacement solenoid for low/high engine speed in hand, but not installed yet. Was originally proportional Racine, but had a leaky part, nobody locally knew how to fix it, so I bought a new block and put 4 solenoid operated valves and a variable restrictor on, also put a filter on the return side. Have the Racine valve bank and controllers to give to the buyer, also. 1 new drive tire, bunch of new hoses, power track is freed up on every link, doesn't bind up and bend anything. Platform rotate has hoses run, but was spot welded in a fixed position by previous owner, but has an extra valve to operate it, plumbed to the rotator, (must have had a leak at the rotator motor? or had coil problem? don't know).

I do have some wiring diagrams, bought from JLG, that are probably the same as the other helpful posters have. I blew mine up to 200% size and laminated them for working outside with the wiring. I agree with the previous poster that said it is a very well built lift, it is tight and strong, with no hint of instability while you are up in the air with it.

 

[od1]

Why are you selling it?

 

[willie59]

Thanks ATCO
I checked out that link, and there is nothing like that on this 40F. Is it's use to cut fluid to the drive motors? If so can I retro-fit this on my rig?

The diverter valve I was hoping would be on yours is to allow steer cylinder to move while your towing the machine. If you don't have the valve, no big deal, just do what off suggested by disconnecting the steer cylinder where the rod end connects to steering knuckle, retract the cylinder, then swing it away from the steering components so you can tow the machine.

Yes, the bracket in the pic is for connecting tow bar. Just build a tow bar with a pintle hitch ring to hook to tow vehicle, disconnect steer cylinder, turn over the plates on the drive hubs, and your ready to tow. Just go slow because your still turning plantery gears in the drive wheel Torque Hubs.

 

[flhayman]

Why are you selling it?

I've got some really tall trees, and was hoping to get a 60 or a 66 foot one. It has really been handy to have. I could use 4wd for a few places, but by watching the angle I approach ridges or valleys, it's doable. I wonder, though, what the tire loading on my asphalt driveway would be with one of those bigger machines, whether it would instantly crack it.

 

[ohiojoe]

Towing JLG

FYI, the manual states maximum towing speed with the towing option is 10mph.

 

[od1]

FYI, the manual states maximum towing speed with the towing option is 10mph.

Thanks OHIOJOE for that info. 10 miles an hr., is that without doing anything to it, or does that include changing the hub positions?

 

[willie59]

Thanks OHIOJOE for that info. 10 miles an hr., is that without doing anything to it, or does that include changing the hub positions?

Yep, you still have to flip the plates to disconnect hubs from drive motors and brakes.


I was just thinking about this tread today od1. We got the 110HX back from the paint shop, got a chance to put some decals on it. LoL, this beast has a boom that fully retracted is as long as yours fully extended. :tong







here's the lower control panel





inside the lower panel. JLG gave us a little more working room in here than the lower box on the 40F

 

[bill onthehill]

Looks like you need a wind speed indicator when you stretch that thing out. 40 ft. is more than I can stand anymore.

 

[ohiojoe]

Yes, you have to flip the plates. I just had to pull my 30G today as the tires don't have enough traction on turf. There is a steer/tow selector valve just behind the steering cylinder on mine. Seemed to pull very easy with a Kubota 3710 tractor. My 30G looks like your 40, just not as pretty.

 

[willie59]

Hello ohiojoe, make a 3rd post and you'll soon lose the probationary status and become a Junior Member. Welcome to the forum. :usa

 

[ohiojoe]

Please be careful pulling these lifts with the towbar. They are heavier than they look, my 30G can easily push my tractor (3k lbs) around. Even my F250 weighing 8K lbs. can be pushed by my 30G which weighs about 12K lbs.

 

[od1]

Hey ATCO
Thanks for thinking of me. I didn't log in, in a few weeks. What year is that 110HX ? It looks new. Do you want to trade?

Great looking rig. Much more organised then the 40F. Do you feel safe on it?

 

[od1]

Please be careful pulling these lifts with the towbar. They are heavier than they look, my 30G can easily push my tractor (3k lbs) around. Even my F250 weighing 8K lbs. can be pushed by my 30G which weighs about 12K lbs.

Thanks ohiojoe for that input. I was going to use a pickup. I guess I'll pass on that idea. When I bought it I had it brought here on a flatbed. i'4 of the tires were off the sides of the bed. The guy chained it down and crossed himself. I drove a head of him.

 

[od1]

ATCO
I pulled the battery this week. We got over 8 inches of snow here. I started removing the side panels but it looks like winter is here. It'll give me the winter to find a good deal on hydraulic line. I have all of the electrical wires. The wiring diagram has me a little freaked out but I think I'll be OK. I wish there was another 40F around here that I could run to if I got into trouble.

 

[willie59]

Hey ATCO
Thanks for thinking of me. I didn't log in, in a few weeks. What year is that 110HX ? It looks new. Do you want to trade?

Great looking rig. Much more organised then the 40F. Do you feel safe on it?

LoL...sure, we'll trade, this thing will put you near 40 feet in the air without even telescoping. Actually, it's a '95 model machine, but was rebuilt by JLG factory in '05, we just did a fresh paint job on it. The 110HX is good machine for safety. It's safety controls durable and redundant. To turn one over would require serious control malfunctions as well as intentional safety system bypassing by some knothead that has no business in the lower control box.

ATCO The wiring diagram has me a little freaked out but I think I'll be OK. I wish there was another 40F around here that I could run to if I got into trouble.

Yep, JLG wiring diagrams aren't the hardest to work with, but they ain't the easiest either, Genie has them beat on diagrams. But no worries, when you start working with them, if you have a question make a post, between me and OFF we'll work ya through it.

 

[Hardline]

Wow I have not worked on a F model in a LONG time. I know the first factory school I went to was on the H model. Not sure what all I will have for the F model. I think my first Spec book should cover it though. I'll see what I can did up for you. Maybe be able to jump in a help. JJ

 

[od1]

LoL...sure, we'll trade, this thing will put you near 40 feet in the air without even telescoping. Actually, it's a '95 model machine, but was rebuilt by JLG factory in '05, we just did a fresh paint job on it. The 110HX is good machine for safety. It's safety controls durable and redundant. To turn one over would require serious control malfunctions as well as intentional safety system bypassing by some knothead that has no business in the lower control box.


Yep, JLG wiring diagrams aren't the hardest to work with, but they ain't the easiest either, Genie has them beat on diagrams. But no worries, when you start working with them, if you have a question make a post, between me and OFF we'll work ya through it.

Even though this 40F seems to be under engineered a bit it still seems safe.
I’ve been stuck in the air do to the faulty wiring and thought (I had plenty of time to think wile up there.) why didn’t JLG wire up the 3 emergency valves to 3 solenoid switches that could be triggered one at a time by lifting a safety lock switch to open each valve from the basket. That way anyone in trouble could get themselves down. I guess it’s in my nature to reverse-engineer everything. I’m not sure if I understood you though. Are you saying it takes two men to run the 110HX?
Thanks again for all of your support on this project. I spoke to OFF tonight on the side. He’s been a great help as well. I don’t want to burn you guys out though.
There have been a couple thousand hits on this posting and if you do a Google search for the JLG 40F I think it comes up 4th. Not bad. I think this posting will help a lot of people as well.

 

[od1]

Wow I have not worked on a F model in a LONG time. I know the first factory school I went to was on the H model. Not sure what all I will have for the F model. I think my first Spec book should cover it though. I'll see what I can did up for you. Maybe be able to jump in a help. JJ

Sounds great.

 

[willie59]

Are you saying it takes two men to run the 110HX?

LoL...no. It's still a one man machine. I was just pointing out that the 110HX, like most any manlift larger that 80 ft, does have areas of instablility and can tip. To prevent this, there are numerous safety devices on them. The safety devices on the 110HX are old school simple, aside from a couple of simple IC circuit boards. And the design and devices are redundant, meaning, there's a back up if a primary device fails. There is a simple pre-op test an operator performs that will reveal any failures. To tip one would nearly require some idiot to monkey around with or disable the safety devices of the machine.

 

[pitt23]

I'm not trying to take over the thread but I am new to the forum and can't make a new topic. I have a JLG Model 60F and was hoping to get some info (diagrams, manuals, etc) from anyone on here (OFF and ATCOEQUIP seems like you have the experience with these pieces of equipment).