td7g dresser

[black60church]

i have a td7g dresser with cummings motor, dozer works perfect, when i bought the dozer the trans pressure gauge didnt work, it was broke, so some one plugged it off, i put a new gauge, and the pressure is around 290, but when you put it in neuteral the pressure drops to zero no matter what the rpms are, then when you put it in gear the pressure goes to 290, trans works perfect in all gears hot or cold, is that normal, i would think that it should have pressure all the time, CAN ANYONE HELP, THANKS

 

[g_man]

i have a td7g dresser with cummings motor, dozer works perfect, when i bought the dozer the trans pressure gauge didnt work, it was broke, so some one plugged it off, i put a new gauge, and the pressure is around 290, but when you put it in neuteral the pressure drops to zero no matter what the rpms are, then when you put it in gear the pressure goes to 290, trans works perfect in all gears hot or cold, is that normal, i would think that it should have pressure all the time, CAN ANYONE HELP, THANKS

That is normal. The clutch pressure guage is on a range selector valve port. When you are in neutral there is no clutch pressure as indicated by the guage. You are right at the high end of the run range which is 224 to 288 psi.

 

[black60church]

thanks, ihad a td8e and a td7e with int. motors and they pressure in neutrul and when it was in gear. i guess the main shaft that works winch would turn like that. mine has no winch GIVE ME AN ANSWER, THANKS

 

[g_man]

Your winch would be directly coupled to the transmission input shaft with no dozer transmission clutches involved. The winch would have power all the time and would be controled by clutches and brakes in the winch housing itself.

 

[black60church]

thanks,one more queston, what is the difference in the transmisson of a e and a g. my others e had place to check torque converter and had pressure on gauge all the time it was running, the g has only one place to check trans and that is under the seat. transmissons looks the same. the e had a place in flloOr board for the torque and one under seat for tranns. CAN ANY ONE TELL ME THE DIFFERENCE

 

[g_man]

The TD7E was made by IH who sold out to Dresser and then they were partnered by Komatsu. The Dresser/Komatsu TD7G has a different engine, torque conv. and transmission than the IH TD7E even though the frame looks the same. Your TD7G has a more robust drive train, IMO, and better cooling than it's TD7E predecessor.

 

[black60church]

Thanks

 

[Durt]

We can help you with your Dresser questions www.cpecanada.com We have been selling and servicing dresser equipment for 40 years

 

[black60church]

thanks. do you sell parts too, i need cutting edges for my td 7g

 

[Iron@Dirt]

If there is only one drive shaft going to the transmission from the torque convertor, how can the input to the transmission be live and drive the winch all the time?

 

[g_man]

It is a countershaft power shift transmission. The transmission input shaft extends thru the rear of the transmission case where the spline connection to the winch shaft is made. As long as the TC is not stalled the drive shaft /input shaft rotates and the winch get power. Internal to the the power shift transmission there are forward and reverse clutch packs. If they are not engaged (neutral) the input shaft turns driving the winch but the transmission output shaft is not driven.

 

[pdbigsky]

Have a Dresser TD7G and one brake gradually failed to turn machine. Cummins engine. What 'fix' will likely work?

 

[Iron@Dirt]

might look in from the center back hole and see if pads are falling apart. two sets on each side one for brakes and one set for clutch( actually they lock part of the planetary to drive out to the final). dont remember clutch is inboard or out board. dont have my bock with me. if pads are ok you could check adjusting nut and bolt ahead of sprocket and below track, careful though little adjustment goes a long way.

 

[pdbigsky]

might look in from the center back hole and see if pads are falling apart. two sets on each side one for brakes and one set for clutch( actually they lock part of the planetary to drive out to the final). dont remember clutch is inboard or out board. dont have my bock with me. if pads are ok you could check adjusting nut and bolt ahead of sprocket and below track, careful though little adjustment goes a long way.

The view through the rear main frame cover looks like new – oil & gears (4400Hrs.), so I’m guessing clutch adjustment needed. Manual is very vague on adjustment process. Says “the clutch adjusting screw is threaded into the frame & secured with a lock plate.” But NO advice on how much adjustment might be needed. I find that ‘screw’ which is actually a hex nut with locking plate.

BUT it says “The brake adjusting screw passes through the side of the rear main frame and sprocket housing and can be reached externally.” That I cannot find. Iron@Dirt said, “…if pads are ok you could check adjusting nut and bolt ahead of sprocket and below track, careful though little adjustment goes a long way.”

I need to find that screw. Manual is of no help in locating it. Any ideas (or pictures??? And how much adjustment for a try???

 

[pdbigsky]

We can help you with your Dresser questions www.cpecanada.com We have been selling and servicing dresser equipment for 40 years

Have a Dresser TD7G with Cummins engine. One side has gradually failed to power & turn the machine.

The view through the rear main frame cover looks like new – oil & gears (4400Hrs.), so I’m guessing clutch adjustment needed. Manual is very vague on adjustment process. Says “the clutch adjusting screw is threaded into the frame & secured with a lock plate.” But NO advice on how much adjustment might be needed. I find that ‘screw’ which is actually a hex nut with locking plate.

BUT it says “The brake adjusting screw passes through the side of the rear main frame and sprocket housing and can be reached externally.” That I cannot find. Iron@Dirt said, “…if pads are ok you could check adjusting nut and bolt ahead of sprocket and below track, careful though little adjustment goes a long way.”

I need to find that screw. Manual is of no help in locating it. Any ideas (or pictures??? And how much adjustment for a try???

 

[pdbigsky]

might look in from the center back hole and see if pads are falling apart. two sets on each side one for brakes and one set for clutch( actually they lock part of the planetary to drive out to the final). dont remember clutch is inboard or out board. dont have my bock with me. if pads are ok you could check adjusting nut and bolt ahead of sprocket and below track, careful though little adjustment goes a long way.

Have a Dresser TD7G with Cummins engine. One side has gradually failed to power & turn the machine.

The view through the rear main frame cover looks like new – oil & gears (4400Hrs.), so I’m guessing clutch adjustment needed. Manual is very vague on adjustment process. Says “the clutch adjusting screw is threaded into the frame & secured with a lock plate.” But NO advice on how much adjustment might be needed. I find that ‘screw’ which is actually a hex nut with locking plate.

BUT it says “The brake adjusting screw passes through the side of the rear main frame and sprocket housing and can be reached externally.” That I cannot find. Iron@Dirt said, “…if pads are ok you could check adjusting nut and bolt ahead of sprocket and below track, careful though little adjustment goes a long way.”

I need to find that screw. Manual is of no help in locating it. Any ideas (or pictures??? And how much adjustment for a try???

 

[pdbigsky]

The TD7E was made by IH who sold out to Dresser and then they were partnered by Komatsu. The Dresser/Komatsu TD7G has a different engine, torque conv. and transmission than the IH TD7E even though the frame looks the same. Your TD7G has a more robust drive train, IMO, and better cooling than it's TD7E predecessor.

Have a Dresser TD7G with Cummins engine. One side has gradually failed to power & turn the machine.

The view through the rear main frame cover looks like new – oil & gears (4400Hrs.), so I’m guessing clutch adjustment needed. Manual is very vague on adjustment process. Says “the clutch adjusting screw is threaded into the frame & secured with a lock plate.” But NO advice on how much adjustment might be needed. I find that ‘screw’ which is actually a hex nut with locking plate.

BUT it says “The brake adjusting screw passes through the side of the rear main frame and sprocket housing and can be reached externally.” That I cannot find. Iron@Dirt said, “…if pads are ok you could check adjusting nut and bolt ahead of sprocket and below track, careful though little adjustment goes a long way.”

I need to find that screw. Manual is of no help in locating it. Any ideas (or pictures??? And how much adjustment for a try???

 

[pdbigsky]

i have a td7g dresser with cummings motor, dozer works perfect, when i bought the dozer the trans pressure gauge didnt work, it was broke, so some one plugged it off, i put a new gauge, and the pressure is around 290, but when you put it in neuteral the pressure drops to zero no matter what the rpms are, then when you put it in gear the pressure goes to 290, trans works perfect in all gears hot or cold, is that normal, i would think that it should have pressure all the time, CAN ANYONE HELP, THANKS

Have a Dresser TD7G with Cummins engine. One side has gradually failed to power & turn the machine.

The view through the rear main frame cover looks like new – oil & gears (4400Hrs.), so I’m guessing clutch adjustment needed. Manual is very vague on adjustment process. Says “the clutch adjusting screw is threaded into the frame & secured with a lock plate.” But NO advice on how much adjustment might be needed. I find that ‘screw’ which is actually a hex nut with locking plate.

BUT it says “The brake adjusting screw passes through the side of the rear main frame and sprocket housing and can be reached externally.” That I cannot find. Iron@Dirt said, “…if pads are ok you could check adjusting nut and bolt ahead of sprocket and below track, careful though little adjustment goes a long way.”

I need to find that screw. Manual is of no help in locating it. Any ideas (or pictures??? And how much adjustment for a try???

 

[g_man]

This is where brake adjust screw and lock nut is. Probably under 2" of caked dirt like in the pic. It's right at the tip of the arrow in that little recess. To adjust brake first loosen all the foot brake pedal linkage so that it is not an influence. Then loosen lock nut on adjusting screw. Clean up the screw threads so it turns easy/smooth. Turn in the screw until you feel a little resistance . DO NOT TIGHTEN. Then back off 1/4 turn and lock it there. This is from memory so check your manual it should be in there.

gg

 

[pdbigsky]

This is where brake adjust screw and lock nut is. Probably under 2" of caked dirt like in the pic. It's right at the tip of the arrow in that little recess. To adjust brake first loosen all the foot brake pedal linkage so that it is not an influence. Then loosen lock nut on adjusting screw. Clean up the screw threads so it turns easy/smooth. Turn in the screw until you feel a little resistance . DO NOT TIGHTEN. Then back off 1/4 turn and lock it there. This is from memory so check your manual it should be in there.

gg

View attachment 201060

WOW!!! Thanks. Thot I'd cleaned enough off, but guess I dig deeper. And the fine tuning is really an extra assist!! We'll see tomorrow!