Takeuchi tl 130

[jakemp]

Hey everyone.
I have a 2005 TL takeuchi, randomly it will lose power to all of the controls (stop dead in its tracks) still be running but you can't shut it off. Theres a fuse in the back next to the battery that I pull out and replace to get it to shut off (new fuse blows and the skidsteer dies)

It could happen in 2 mins or 2 months.. very random.

Anyone have this issue or know of a fix? There must be a short somewhere..

Thanks for any help in advance!

 

[skata]

There must be a wire rubbing somewhere.

 

[tool_king]

Hey everyone.
I have a 2005 TL takeuchi, randomly it will lose power to all of the controls (stop dead in its tracks) still be running but you can't shut it off. Theres a fuse in the back next to the battery that I pull out and replace to get it to shut off (new fuse blows and the skidsteer dies)

It could happen in 2 mins or 2 months.. very random.

Anyone have this issue or know of a fix? There must be a short somewhere..

Thanks for any help in advance!

Whats your email ? I can email schematic of the wiring with manuals if you like .

 

[jakemp]

Whats your email ? I can email schematic of the wiring with manuals if you like .

Thatd be great! I'll send you a dm now.

 

[tool_king]

Thatd be great! I'll send you a dm now.

Email sent .

 

[GaryHoff]

The relays can crack inside, and make/lose contact. Might be worth looking at them. You will see some are multi-relays that are soldered inside.

I would suspect your safety relay is at fault.

Although not your exact issue, these may help.

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...oolant-low-oil-press-light.76942/#post-811029

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...lt-has-killed-all-work-functions.40731/page-2

 

[heymccall]

Post #2 here...
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...uel-shutoff-solenoid-issue.83583/#post-897080

 

[jakemp]

So from reading other threads, I guess this is my bypass wires?
The plug on the bottom is where I plug in my fuse that blows as soon as I plug it in.
The blue wire is wired straight from the wiring harness for some reason..I guess previous owner had some sort of issue before..

Anyone have any ideas? I'm pretty lost.

 

[tool_king]

He probably could not fit a fuseable link link the same. Where is the end of blue wire going ?

 

[skata]

That red plastic piece appears to be a fuse. And the one with the home made fuse setup was probably the same red plastic but it had probably blew and they didn't have a spare.
I believe the bypass wires are a little further up. Above the battery perhaps.

 

[skata]

If it were me, first thing I'd do is remove the belly pans, raise the cab, and pressure wash it good. Then start inspecting the wires.

 

[tool_king]

That red plastic piece appears to be a fuse. And the one with the home made fuse setup was probably the same red plastic but it had probably blew and they didn't have a spare.
I believe the bypass wires are a little further up. Above the battery perhaps.

Bypass wires will be taped up . They should yellow caps plugs taped to the harness.

 

[jakemp]

He probably could not fit a fuseable link link the same. Where is the end of blue wire going ?

The blue wire is the second picture, it goes under the cab an into the wire harness.

 

[jakemp]

If it were me, first thing I'd do is remove the belly pans, raise the cab, and pressure wash it good. Then start inspecting the wires.

Yeah, Ideally id like to move it before i do that. The guy cleaned his horse stalls with it so its full of ****. its not in the greatest spot to pressure wash it. (trust me thats my goal as well)

That red plastic piece appears to be a fuse. And the one with the home made fuse setup was probably the same red plastic but it had probably blew and they didn't have a spare.
I believe the bypass wires are a little further up. Above the battery perhaps.

I was kind of thinking the same thing but where did those 2 red wires come from then, that the homemade fuse is connected too?

 

[tool_king]

If it were me, first thing I'd do is remove the belly pans, raise the cab, and pressure wash it good. Then start inspecting the wires.

For sure.

 

[heymccall]

Those are the 3 system protection fusible links. They couldn't get one, so they made their own.
Here's a pic in this thread... https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/how-to-check-fusible-link-pic.82015/#post-876038

One is to the Accessory relay (protection for everything key hot) 45Amp
The second is to the key switch Battery feed (protection for everything that has power even with key off) 45Amp
The third is for the engine intake heater. 65Amp

 

[jakemp]

Those are the 3 system protection fusible links. They couldn't get one, so they made their own.
Here's a pic in this thread... https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/how-to-check-fusible-link-pic.82015/#post-876038

One is to the Accessory relay (protection for everything key hot) 45Amp
The second is to the key switch Battery feed (protection for everything that has power even with key off) 45Amp
The third is for the engine intake heater. 65Amp

View attachment 229034

3 you say, so the one that is homemade use to look like a actual fuseable link..?
So in theory I can just buy a replacement and repair it correctly? (I'd hope at least..)

 

[heymccall]

They are high current fuses that Takeuchi calls fusible links.

 

[skata]

3 you say, so the one that is homemade use to look like a actual fuseable link..?
So in theory I can just buy a replacement and repair it correctly? (I'd hope at least..)

They don't just blow. Something made it blow, so even if you replace it, it will probably blow again.

 

[jakemp]

They don't just blow. Something made it blow, so even if you replace it, it will probably blow again.

I belive the make shift fuse is for the hot fuseable link. Wouldn't it blow if the fuse is not strong enough? The fuse that was in there when first discovered was a 25 amp fuse, normally needs a 45..